Oil for Low Compression Engine
Oil for Low Compression Engine
I have a Long 460 45HP Tractor. It has a 3 cyl Uzina Diesel Engine. (I know it isn't a car or truck, but I know you all are knowledgeable about most everything) It has low compression, tons of blow by, hard to start. It takes a squirt or two of starting fluid in front of the filter to start everytime unless it has a very full battery and it is very warm outside. When it is cold outside(35 and below) it is almost impossible to start even with starting fluid straight in to the intake without going through the filter.
Now to my question. Should I go with a heavier weight oil to try and keep more compression or go with a lighter weight oil so it will spin faster and start easier? If i do go with a lighter weight oil will it create worse compression issues?
Now to my question. Should I go with a heavier weight oil to try and keep more compression or go with a lighter weight oil so it will spin faster and start easier? If i do go with a lighter weight oil will it create worse compression issues?
Do you suspect the low compression & bad blow/by to be caused by excessive carbon deposits clogging the ring lands & causing the rings to stick & the valves to not close well, or do you suspect the problem to be ring or cyl bore, or valve seat wear????
I suspect it to be ring and cylinder bore wear, but I don't really know. How would I determine which issue it has without tearing it apart? Also, is there some quality fuel or oil additives I could use to deal with carbon deposits should that be the issue or would either issue require tearing into the engine?
The tractor is getting tired all the way around. It never has the 3 point backhoe taken off of it since we inherited a nice NH 3930 for everything else. We have tried to trade it for a full-size backhoe. We would just sell it, but the 3 point backhoe doesn't work with the NH without getting significant modification.
Overall, I'm not trying to get it mechanically perfect, I am just looking for a cheap way to make it start easier without hindering its remaining life before needing a rebuild. It is the first time for an oil change on it since I have been involved with this tractor and thought making sure it had the proper oil would be a good place to start.
The tractor is getting tired all the way around. It never has the 3 point backhoe taken off of it since we inherited a nice NH 3930 for everything else. We have tried to trade it for a full-size backhoe. We would just sell it, but the 3 point backhoe doesn't work with the NH without getting significant modification.
Overall, I'm not trying to get it mechanically perfect, I am just looking for a cheap way to make it start easier without hindering its remaining life before needing a rebuild. It is the first time for an oil change on it since I have been involved with this tractor and thought making sure it had the proper oil would be a good place to start.
It is an early 80's. I haven't been able to figure out exactly as I haven't found anywhere I can decode the number.
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There are manuals available on the net, that should have the specified engine oil called out. Off hand I'd guess a diesel rated 5W-40 might be a good consideration, as it would have a lower cold viscosity to make cold cranking easier on the starter & battery & will have the needed hot viscosity for running lube needs.
Most diesel 5W-40 will also have a good detergent ad pack that can help tidy up the ring lands if their clogged up with carbon, varnish, ect & that can help free up the rings to give you the best compression its capable of in its current condition.
Its supposed to have a thermostatic start sequence to aid cold starting, so make sure its functioning.
If you can get a bore scope into the combustion chamber & have a look around in there, you could get an idea of deposit loading.
There are diesel fuel additives that can also help tidy up the fuel injectors & combustion chamber deposits & maybe help things along.
More thoughts for consideration. Let us know how it goes,
Most diesel 5W-40 will also have a good detergent ad pack that can help tidy up the ring lands if their clogged up with carbon, varnish, ect & that can help free up the rings to give you the best compression its capable of in its current condition.
Its supposed to have a thermostatic start sequence to aid cold starting, so make sure its functioning.
If you can get a bore scope into the combustion chamber & have a look around in there, you could get an idea of deposit loading.
There are diesel fuel additives that can also help tidy up the fuel injectors & combustion chamber deposits & maybe help things along.
More thoughts for consideration. Let us know how it goes,
Thanks, a guy on BITOG actually posted up the recommended oil page for the tractor. It is in a foreign language, but useful enough. It says 20w-40 for above 30 degrees Celsius and 10w-30 for under 30 degrees Celsius. Nothing Electrical really works on it except the starter and light on the dash when the key is turned(that will kill the battery fast if forgot to be turned of which is easy since it has a push **** stop not key). One guy keeps recommending Mystik JT-8 15w-40. It sounds like that might be a good idea since in the summer it can get over 86 Fahrenheit outside when it is working, but may still need to be started near freezing.
Should I go with the synthetic blend Mystik or one that specifies diesel?
Should I go with the synthetic blend Mystik or one that specifies diesel?
I'd go with a good quality diesel oil, in the specified viscosity range. The specified 10W will make cold cranking a lot easier, a 5W-40 diesel oil even more so & the reason I suggested considering it is that it'll make cold cranking a lot easier & its 40 weight would maybe help blow by some, until the detergents tidy up/free up the ring lands & rings. The diesel oil recipe will have the right ad pack to keep soot under control & the fuel injectors properly lubricated.
A diesel oil formulated with some esters in its recipe can help clean up/free up & keep clean, the ring lands, if you come to suspect their clogged up & sticking & that could maybe help the blow by problem you believe you have.
If you come to think maybe combustion chamber carbon deposits are part of the problem, read through this thread & a link in it on diesel fuel additive testing & how effective or safe to use they are. http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post2220722
Make sure your battery, wiring & glow plugs are functional & you don't have water contamination in the fuel or fuel seperator & that the fuel filter isn't clogged. Use a good quality & fresh fuel.
Sounds like the battery killer dash switch is for the glow plugs & they'll be needed to start that puppy when its cold. So, the battery & wiring need to be up to snuff to handle the electrical load to power the glow plugs & run the starter motor to spin the engine over at the correct cranking speed for a cold start, all a vicious circle!!!
A diesel oil formulated with some esters in its recipe can help clean up/free up & keep clean, the ring lands, if you come to suspect their clogged up & sticking & that could maybe help the blow by problem you believe you have.
If you come to think maybe combustion chamber carbon deposits are part of the problem, read through this thread & a link in it on diesel fuel additive testing & how effective or safe to use they are. http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post2220722
Make sure your battery, wiring & glow plugs are functional & you don't have water contamination in the fuel or fuel seperator & that the fuel filter isn't clogged. Use a good quality & fresh fuel.
Sounds like the battery killer dash switch is for the glow plugs & they'll be needed to start that puppy when its cold. So, the battery & wiring need to be up to snuff to handle the electrical load to power the glow plugs & run the starter motor to spin the engine over at the correct cranking speed for a cold start, all a vicious circle!!!
Okay, thanks! It sounds like a 10 or 5 w40 diesel oil is what will be going into it. The light just indicates the key is turned past position 2, but the glow plugs haven't worked since we have owned it. The electrical system is a nightmare on this tractor. It is from Romania...
A good idea to go with a lower 5W, or 10W imo. A 5W oil at cold temp is still way thicker than a 40 viscosity is at hot operating temp, so the 5W will flow lube to the engine quicker & easier on a cold start & would provide plenty of viscosity protection at cold start temps, but would ease the battery & starter work load a lot.
You really need to get the glow plugs working for those cold starts, it would help cold starts a Lot.
So to would getting the battery, battery cables to the starter & chassis ground points, glow plugs & alternator up to snuff. All electrical connections need to be clean, bright & tight.
If its not run much, you might consider trying some Startron Diesel fuel stabilizer. It'll also tidy up the fuel injectors & combustion chambers. Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment - Star Tron Diesel Additive
Over the past year their gasoline recipe has made a noticeable positive difference in my marine, lawn & garden equiptment starting & running, so I decided to try it in my 94 Taurus 3.8L & 99 Rangers 4.0L this winter, as they aren't driven very much now days. Like my marine & lawn & garden equipt, it's made a noticeable difference in the quickness of their cold starting on E10 fuel. Haven't had either vehicle on a road trip yet, but the Taurus round town mpg took a jump to just over 20mpg last week.
So, their diesel recipe may be worth trying in the tractor to see if it'll make a positive impact on its cold starts.
Would be interesting to hear how the lower viscosity diesel recipe oil does, so keep us posted on how everything goes.
You really need to get the glow plugs working for those cold starts, it would help cold starts a Lot.
So to would getting the battery, battery cables to the starter & chassis ground points, glow plugs & alternator up to snuff. All electrical connections need to be clean, bright & tight.
If its not run much, you might consider trying some Startron Diesel fuel stabilizer. It'll also tidy up the fuel injectors & combustion chambers. Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment - Star Tron Diesel Additive
Over the past year their gasoline recipe has made a noticeable positive difference in my marine, lawn & garden equiptment starting & running, so I decided to try it in my 94 Taurus 3.8L & 99 Rangers 4.0L this winter, as they aren't driven very much now days. Like my marine & lawn & garden equipt, it's made a noticeable difference in the quickness of their cold starting on E10 fuel. Haven't had either vehicle on a road trip yet, but the Taurus round town mpg took a jump to just over 20mpg last week.
So, their diesel recipe may be worth trying in the tractor to see if it'll make a positive impact on its cold starts.
Would be interesting to hear how the lower viscosity diesel recipe oil does, so keep us posted on how everything goes.
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