Re-ringing engine
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
Re-ringing engine
I don't have the time, money, or location to do a complete rebuild. Could I just pull the head, drop the pan and re-ring each piston without boring it? I know that's not preferred, but it's really my only option right now. I'm having big problems with positive crankcase pressures, and I'm just trying to cover my bases in case the PCV valve isn't the cause. I'll have a compression check today. Please give your thoughts...
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 179
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From: Central Virginia
In my opinion, if the rings are bad enought to be replaced, the bores will be bad enought to require honing. I understand it is tempting to just replace the rings. But, it is likely to be a lot of work that won't get you where you want to be.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. If you do decide to replace just the rings, let us know how it all turns out. Good Luck
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. If you do decide to replace just the rings, let us know how it all turns out. Good Luck
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 561
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From: houston
You didn't give much info on what is wrong with the engine. Why are you putting rings in it? Rings get blamed for a lot of things that are not their fault. Do the compression check and then get back to us. Also recommend doing a WET compression check also. Squirt some light oil in the cylinder(s) that show low compression and crank the engine over to distribute the oil then check compression. If the compression comes up significantly, you have bad rings. If it doesn't, it's bad valves. Big question is, what is wrong with the engine?? Good luck.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,489
Likes: 5
From: Valley Center, CA
If you are looking for a temporary fix, why not continue with using the heavy weight oil? And maybe don't use that restorer stuff anymore. Most of those things are just high detergent additives that clean out any gummy build up. Unfortunately, mayber that gummy buildup may have been helping a little. I would try driving it for a while with the 50w you have in it now. If that isn't quite doing it, add a can of STP when the engine is warm and idling. This higher viscosity in your oil may keep you on the road for the next 6 months until you can take the time and $ to hone the cylinders and change the rings. If you just do the rings, then the engine probably will just start using more oil. 
Good luck, John
Good luck, John
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
Oops, forgot to elaborate on the problem. My biggest concern is that the engine's spewing oil from the fuel pump vent hole. I don't know exactly when it's doing it (not at idle or revving w/ no load), but I know for sure that's where it's coming from. The truck also seems pretty down on power, then again, I'm used to turbocharged 4-cylinders that revv high.
I have a cylinder hone, could I still attempt to keep the standard bore, just hone enough to make the walls smooth?
I have a cylinder hone, could I still attempt to keep the standard bore, just hone enough to make the walls smooth?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: houston
If oil iscommng out the fuel pump, you have a bad diaphram. It's probably letting gas into the oil also. You may be down on power because the pump has a hole in it and can't pump as much fuel to the carb. Fuel in the oil will thin it enough to allow it to find it's way past even good rings. The amount of oil burned may be very slight and therefore not very visible but since it is steady, it will use quite a bit of oil. Good luck.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Chester, NY
Now there's something I was looking for. Something to explain the fuel pump ordeal. When I changed to oil, I didn't notice any gas in it. Should I try putting a new pump on? It's only $15 at Autozone, then I'll change the oil again just in case there is gas in it again.
I'm on my way to get a compression check done as well.
I'm on my way to get a compression check done as well.
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