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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 06:35 PM
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Brake problem

I'm hoping some one can give me a little guidance on this. While driving today, my brakes started acting different. I had one of those double pump moments, and on the second pump, brake pedal was hard as a rock. I had to try to push if through the floor to stop the truck. It is only noticeable if you double pump the brakes. Before anyone asks, yes I checked the brake fluid and it was full. Any suggestions would be helpful.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 07:00 PM
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Check the vaccume pump. It should pull a minimum of 19 in. Pull the hose off the brake booster and check there with engine running. Does the heater/ AC defaut to the defrost when this happens?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Not really sure on the AC controls. Had the windows rolled down all day. I'll check that tomorrow. I have had the vacuum pump go out before, but I lost power steering when that happened.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2014 | 09:18 PM
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Could be brake booster too. But you'll find out for sure when you check the vac pump.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 06:14 AM
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Didn't get a chance to test vacuum pump yesterday. Brought the vacuum gauge with me so I'll do that today. But driving to work this morning the brake light came on, then went off about a minute later. Only came on once.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2014 | 08:10 AM
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Vacuum pump does not affect power steering (that must've been something else), unless it seizes entirely and shreds/throws the belt, at which point you have a LOT more going on. Warning light could be hydraulic issue, parking brake or vacuum pump, and with the hard pedal, vac pump is the prime suspect. That, or the hose from the vac pump to the distribution box.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 03:31 PM
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Update

Replaced master cylinder today. Checked vacuum pump and a reading of 6 in Hg ( 15 cm Hg). Have to bleed the lines but do the vacuum readings seem ok?
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 03:53 PM
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That sounds like very low vacuum. Both the distribution box and the booster have a bit of vacuum reserve, so that's probably why the pedal gives some normal assist on the first push. But with the pump pulling such weak vacuum, the brakes probably exhaust that reserve quickly, and by the second pedal push, you're out of reserve and wham! hard pedal. If that measurement was right from the pump, before the distro box, then I'd say your pump is done for.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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Thanks. Looks like I'm off to the part store again.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 07:45 AM
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Well, replaced vacuum pump. Brakes are working good. But, ABS light is on. I'm sure that's just some air in the lines from replacing the master cylinder. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 07:54 AM
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Did you bench bleed the M/C before installing it? Did you bleed all the wheels and the RABS valve after installing the M/C, in reverse order of distance (RR, LR, RABS, RF, LF)?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 05:56 AM
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Unfortunately, this was my first time to replace a master cylinder. So I didn't know you were supposed to bleed it before installing in. I did bleed the brakes in the correct order. However, did not bleed the ABS sensor.
Forgive me, but I don't even know where the sensor is. If some one could tell me where it is, I would be greatful. Can I bleed the MC adequately now that it is already installed?
 
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Old Mar 1, 2014 | 09:50 AM
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There's no sensor. The truck uses the VSS as the sensor for ABS. You need to bleed the RABS _valve_, which is on the line going to the rear brakes, on the left frame member aprx. under the firewall.

For the M/C, you can disconnect the lines and hook up the little bleeder tubes (they should have come with the new M/C) and bleed it using the pedal. Then reconnect the lines and bleed all of the above.
 
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