I've got a broken wheel stud on my '59 F-500 rear axle, passenger side (RH thread side). I looked through the parts manual on DVD and found nothing about how to replace this. A few folks like Stu McMillan have helped with some general ideas over the past couple months, and I finally got to this particular job. Now I need more specific help. I know I have to pull the axle to press the stud out--but--I am not sure exactly what I have to take apart to get the axle out.

Here's why: I'm not sure I have a stock axle. The builder's tag affixed to the back of the axle on the passenger side says "Rockwell" (didn't climb under there to get the model number, etc., from behind the brake line), but the shop manual and another repair book from back then both say I should have an Eaton or Timken. Hmmmm.... The code in the glove box says "31" for axle code.

If anyone out there has a step by step set of instructions, particularly with diagrams, I'd appreciate it. I can't post attachments to my threads here, or I'd post pictures of what I have to work with and could describe what I did. Right now, everything's put back in place, finger tight, with the exception of the lug nuts.

My goal is to replace all ten lug studs with new ones that are 2"-3.5" longer which will allow me to use a simple spacer and move my tires out from rubbing on the wheel well of my bed. If I had a half inch of space I'd be good, but 2.5" would be perfect based on actual measurements.

Glovebox tag info:
F50J9K55708, TRANS: X, AXLE: 31, WB: 130, COLOR: REF50J, DATE: 04W

Info stamped on the back of the heater core cover: A AUG 21 1959

Thanks,
Bob Massie

 

Sounds like you have a timken-rocwell. Axle number from data plate says single speed 6.20 11m.
Does your axle look like one of these?


Good luck in your quest!

 

You puttin' a pickup box on that thing?

 

The procedure is pretty much the same for most axles under the bigger trucks.
First block the front wheels so the truck cannot move, break the outer nuts that hold the outer wheel loose.
Raise the side you are working on, and remove the outer wheel.
Lower just enough to keep the inner wheel from turning while you break the inner nuts loose.
Raise and block in place. Remove inner wheel.

You will now have to remove the nuts or capscrews holding the axle shaft and flange in place. There are also wedge washers used. Most of the time I see nuts, so just back off the nuts then hit each one sharply with a big hammer to pop the wedge washers. Then remove the nuts and wedge washers. Then pull the axle shaft and flange out and set it aside.

You might now be able to remove the brake drum if it is nor stuck to the hub. If it is, remove it with the hub.

To remove the hub, look in toward the bearings and find the outer locknut. One of the tangs of the lockwasher will be bent into a slot in the outer locknut or over a flat of the outer locknut (I have seen hex and slotted locknuts)- bend it free and remove the outer locknut. Then remove the lockwasher and the inner locknut. (if you need a locknut wrench most larger NAPA stores have them or can get them)
Now you can remove the hub with the bearings - be careful, it is heavy.

Once you have the hub off, you can use an arbor press or hydraulic press to remove the studs.

Good luck.