Rear Leaf Block Delete
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 53
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From: West Michigan
Rear Leaf Block Delete
I plan to replace my rear leaf springs and stock lift blocks with 4" lift springs. So that I can remove what I see as a weak link. My question is this, Do I need to shim the springs to maintain a certain pinion angle? What is the magic number? (angle) Has anyone done this before? What shim if any did you use? I know shorter U bolts are in order, can measure for those.
This is my first real post for info, I usually learn all I need to know from searching evryone elses posts. I could not find any info on this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This is my first real post for info, I usually learn all I need to know from searching evryone elses posts. I could not find any info on this.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
What body style is your truck? Cab length and bed length that will depend if you need to shim the springs or not. The blocks are not a bad thing if your worried about axle wrap you will still get it without blocks so its better to just get traction bars to eliminate the axle wrap.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: ALPHA ,NJ
As stated wheelbase will be a determining factor. 142" and below use a tapered block, above that use a flat block.
Why are you looking to get rid of the block? High power diesel? Lift? A set of traction bars will probably run you the same or just a tad more then a 4" lift spring and maintain your towing/load capacity.
Why are you looking to get rid of the block? High power diesel? Lift? A set of traction bars will probably run you the same or just a tad more then a 4" lift spring and maintain your towing/load capacity.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 53
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From: West Michigan
super cab, Long box
Not sure what wheel base is. As above, A '99 Super Cab/Long box. I already have the springs and shocks. I had to buy springs because I broke old ones hauling wood pellets, wood, plowing and doing truck stuff...
The only one longer than this is the Crew Cab/Long Box. I just replaced the u-joints and midship bearing on rear drive shaft this last fall.
Thanks for the help guys. I gotta get this fixed so I can sell it. I wanna get started on my new baby. '03 F350 CC/LB DRW. Bullet Proof 6.0
The only one longer than this is the Crew Cab/Long Box. I just replaced the u-joints and midship bearing on rear drive shaft this last fall.
Thanks for the help guys. I gotta get this fixed so I can sell it. I wanna get started on my new baby. '03 F350 CC/LB DRW. Bullet Proof 6.0
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Joined: Dec 2011
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Here is an image to help you visualize the three different ways Ford arranged the rear suspension in 1999...
Top drawing: 4" block. without any tab for jounce bumper.
Middle drawing: 2" block, with a tab attached to meet the jounce bumper.
Bottom drawing: 0" block, (no block) which is what you seem to be after.
Top drawing: 4" block. without any tab for jounce bumper.
Middle drawing: 2" block, with a tab attached to meet the jounce bumper.
Bottom drawing: 0" block, (no block) which is what you seem to be after.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
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From: Tewksbury, MA
Do you have 2 rear drive shafts? Wheel base is the distance between your wheels basically. Another way to tell is if you have a single rear drive shaft ypu will have tapered blocks. If you have a two piece so one going from the tranny to a carrier bearing then from the carrier bearing to your axle then you have flat blocks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,449
Likes: 70
From: South Jersey
ever block from Ford has the jounce tab on them, you just cant see it in the picture. Ive had 4k in my 2004 F350 in my sig on three different occasions and the block jounce stop NEVER even got that close. Honestly i dont think it would ever hit.... unless you added 6k in the bed and jumped the truck six feet in the air MAYBE THEN
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
ever block from Ford has the jounce tab on them, you just cant see it in the picture. Ive had 4k in my 2004 F350 in my sig on three different occasions and the block jounce stop NEVER even got that close. Honestly i dont think it would ever hit.... unless you added 6k in the bed and jumped the truck six feet in the air MAYBE THEN
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Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,449
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From: South Jersey
once for our building we needed cinder blocks to remove two old doors and one window, second and third time my uncles basement wall bowed in from water damage and it was cheaper for him to get the blocks himself instead of the contractor using his own for some reason..... and since my cousin big bad Chevy 2500HD Duratrash couldn't handle the weight i said i would go pick them up
Posting Guru
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From: ALPHA ,NJ
You would need a flat block as your wheel base is longer then 142. What the transfers to without the block I'm not sure. But my suggestion would be to bolt everything on there and see if the driveshaft spins. If it binds you need to change the angle.
Posting Guru
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From: ALPHA ,NJ
You can shim both but I've only heard of shimming the carrier with a 4" lifts this will be I'm guessing about stock height. So the carrier angle should be about correct but the pinion might be off
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: West Michigan
What angle?
I was guessing that it would be about the same as with the blocks. Approximately the same height. I would put my angle gauge on it but not sure it would be accurate with broken springs. I will check angle once bolted up and check if drive shaft rolls without incident. Other wise I will shim if needed. Thanks for the input guys!!!
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