And so it begins
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From: Where the Army sends me
Update for the night. Down to just the torque converter bolts. Bell housing bolts are off and bagged. Mounting bolts are in hand for the engine stand. Pulled a whopping four wires off of the engine: ground, water temp sender, oil pressure sender, and the dizzy. I unbolted the coil and moved it to the side to prevent mis wiring it. Got all vacuum lines off, and the bottom nut off of the engine mounts (they need replaced). Of course I removed to plugs and plug wires. I didn't count them because they are not part of my engine wiring harness; they are part of the ignition system.
My only question is what is the best way to get these stubborn toque converter bolts off with no lift and only hand tools?
My only question is what is the best way to get these stubborn toque converter bolts off with no lift and only hand tools?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
You either have to use a 6-point SAE socket or box-end wrench, or a 6-point metric - although I don't remember which one it is. And don't even think about an open-end wrench. Those nuts will spin in a 12-point socket or box-end wrench - been there, done that, and will NOT do it again as I had to weld other nuts to those to get them off after they slipped.
IIRC, my 3/8" drive socket and break-over fit in there, but my 1/2" drive wouldn't fit. So I was able to get my SAE sockets to work. But someone, Jim I think, said that the metric socket is ever so slightly smaller and will fit on and won't spin.
IIRC, my 3/8" drive socket and break-over fit in there, but my 1/2" drive wouldn't fit. So I was able to get my SAE sockets to work. But someone, Jim I think, said that the metric socket is ever so slightly smaller and will fit on and won't spin.
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From: Where the Army sends me
Had a nice visit with my mom, who drove down from Missouri. We had a small Ford convention in our driveway when she pulled up in her 02 F250. She likes the beast and my plans for it. Also managed to get the torque converter nuts off. One is ruined. I'll pull it out tomorrow.
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From: Where the Army sends me
1/2 inch breaker bar an six point socket. The last one I had to chisel out, so I need a new set.
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From: Where the Army sends me
Ratchet was a no-go. With the 250's suspension, I could get a standard depth 6-point socket an breaker bar in there. Barely. I used a 3/8 ratchet to speed the nuts off. And a half in chisel and small brass hammer for the stripped nut. Threads looked fine afterward, so I got lucky there.
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Or have I misunderstood and you mean your "at home" tools.
Good luck on the project, it sounds good so far!
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From: Where the Army sends me
My personal tools. They may have gotten borrowed and lost while I was deployed.
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From: Where the Army sends me
Update for today. Engine is out. And apart. I had one bolt snap in the thermostat housing. Two snapped on passenger side exhaust manifold. And one of the head bolts was cross threaded on the driver side. Right now I have on piston that won't wiggle out and no edge reamer to help. Other than that, a successful day. Going to be a pain to get down to the machine shop with my work schedule this week. Will keep you guys posted.
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
What are your plans on head bolts? Going back stock? I have extra stock head bolts to replace the cross-threaded one if you need it.
On the t-stat bolt, frequently those actually snap above the block where coolant gets in and corrodes the bolt/housing area. Given that the bolt should come out of the block fairly easily.
The exhaust manifold bolts are going to be another story. And, unfortunately, not a new story for Fords. Drilling it out and using an Eazyout doesn't always work. Good luck!
On the t-stat bolt, frequently those actually snap above the block where coolant gets in and corrodes the bolt/housing area. Given that the bolt should come out of the block fairly easily.
The exhaust manifold bolts are going to be another story. And, unfortunately, not a new story for Fords. Drilling it out and using an Eazyout doesn't always work. Good luck!
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From: Where the Army sends me
What are your plans on head bolts? Going back stock? I have extra stock head bolts to replace the cross-threaded one if you need it. On the t-stat bolt, frequently those actually snap above the block where coolant gets in and corrodes the bolt/housing area. Given that the bolt should come out of the block fairly easily. The exhaust manifold bolts are going to be another story. And, unfortunately, not a new story for Fords. Drilling it out and using an Eazyout doesn't always work. Good luck!
Any ideas on that last piston?
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Not cool on the tools, a mans tools are his baby's and should be respected.
For that piston, are you saying the rings are getting caught on the lip on the bore wall?
If so, just get some shim stock and make a sleeve to slide in past the lip and over the rings (use lube as required) then square up the piston and slide it out, the shim will ramp the rings past the lip.
If the rings are heavily carboned up and stuck in their grooves, then you can loosen them up with some Kero or brake cleaner. Loosening the rings may get it out without the shim.
For that piston, are you saying the rings are getting caught on the lip on the bore wall?
If so, just get some shim stock and make a sleeve to slide in past the lip and over the rings (use lube as required) then square up the piston and slide it out, the shim will ramp the rings past the lip.
If the rings are heavily carboned up and stuck in their grooves, then you can loosen them up with some Kero or brake cleaner. Loosening the rings may get it out without the shim.