Anti-lock doors? They randomly unlock themselves whether locked or not. My locks are not the type that automatically lock when you drive, so normally they don't do anything unless you press the button. And as for a feature to prevent you from locking up with the key in the ignition, well I don't have that either.
This only started a few minutes after going through a car wash today, the temps about 24 degrees f. That may be just a coincidence, but needs to be considered.

After a few hours the problem went away, but I'm certain it will reoccur at some time, so I hope I can find the cause before that happens.

It's a 2008 E150 XLT 8 pass wagon. 3 power lock switches, the 2 front and the rear doors, plus the key-less remote fob.

For hours the doors were just UN-locking at intervals of several minutes to several times per minute., I could lock them with the fob or manually, but the lock switches inside did not work, and when released would trigger another un-lock.

It did not matter if the van was running or not, I could shut it off and lock it with the fob, but it would just unlock itself within a minute or two. I placed the fob well away from the van and it still did it. At the time I didn't have the manual and didn't know which fuse to pull to disable the PDL.

At some point, 3 to 4 hours after the car wash, the trouble stopped and so far seems to be back to normal. I just checked and it has been locked now for a couple hours.

Any ideas what could cause this? Faulty switch? Computer *&^%$ modules!?

 

Not overly familiar with the RKE system of your model year but I'd be highly suspicious of that module. Sounds like one of its internal components is causing this issue.

Cold weather could reveal this condition whereas in warmer temps it would never happen. More than likely the car wash thing is just a coincidence.

 

Cold weather indeed has a habit of making some weird things happen. I would suspect cold temps freaking something out. Electronics don't always work the best in ALL temperatures.

 

I had this happen in my 2002 E350. The door lock module is in the side wall just behind the drivers seat. The dealer told me I needed a new module. I removed it ,took the cover off and found soda pop reside on the circuit board. I rinsed it off under warm water and let it dry a few days. I reinstalled it and it has been trouble free for 3 yrs. I fiqured I had nothing to loose .If I screwed it up, I was right back where I started!

 

It sounds like water got in from the car wash. Check the window for leakage.

 

Also check the switch on the back door. I've had an object fall down between the switch on the back door and stuff in the very back, causing the switch to be pressed.

-Brandon

 

I really appreciate all the suggestions, some I had already considered, some not.
One of the first things I thought of was that a box of junk may have slid up against the rear door switch as Brandon suggests, but the van was empty that day.

I strongly suspect water from the high pressure car wash may have found the back-side of the rear door lock switch, possibly coming in through the gap around the lower right hinge, or around the license inset. The hinge is only 4-5 inches from the rear switch.

I got a chuckle reading Rick's actual experience with the soda pop in the module, because it is so true. When I got my new/used van home I found what looked like chocolate ice cream (maybe a latte?) had spilled and dried on the interior wall behind the drivers seat, may be some got into the module too! I will be checking in there if sealing up the door switch doesn't help.

I realize all to well that cold and ice makes winter car washing risky around here, but mid 20's?, hey you gotta take what you get. The van is kept out in the cold and we've had a lot of sub zero temps in the past month. It was 18 below when my OE battery failed a month ago. Locks were working through all that...and good news is they are still working at this time. Kind of anticipating them to fail again so I can discover what brings it on. If I find anything I'll be sure to pass it on.

Thanks again, Brad.

 

I first noticed my door locks going up and down after a drive through car wash also. They would just go up and down at random and I fixed them with the link below.

My problem was with the Door lock module or RKE behind driver seat mounted on wall. I followed the directions and link below and found hairline cracks in the solder joints in the module. I fixed it a couple of years ago, however lately noticed the locks would act up again.

It's a 1998 conversion van and I was cleaning the window behind the driver seat on the outside. I noticed that every time I scrubbed hard or put pressure on the window, the locks would go down and up. The window is right above the control module. I was not using any water, only windex. It's just "oilcanning" the wall just enough to move the module so slightly to cause this. Van was unlocked to start with. I would put pressure on the wall and the locks would go down and then pop up. I did this several times.

I have not got around to fixing it again, because it does not happen much at all, but the solder worked the first time. I also believe the car wash brushes to the same thing!


I am not sure how to link to another thread, but here is how I fixed mine.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7426620

I hope this helps because it seems to be a common problem with this module!

 

Rusty that's a great follow up--exactly what I was originally thinking!

The rear door PDL switch only on the most rare of circumstances would intermittently and repeatedly occur were it wet. Looking at the right side rear door apart from the license bracket there's very little way water could come in contact with that switch.

Even if that were the case at some point the offending water would dry up and the described condition cease.

The RKE's are a known problem on occasion and with this sort of issue it would be the first place I started looking. OTOH poking around in the RKE with a solder iron isn't something most should attempt unless they're already familiar with working on or around PCB's (Printed Circuit Board).

That's not to discourage anyone from making the attempt but it can make the problem worse very easily. The RKE's tend to be model and year specific because Ford does change wiring connector pin out locations on various circuits, no doubt to thwart those of us who'd swap in any ol' part just because it fits and the connectors seem to engage.

Hey Rusty---the photos in your link aren't visible---is it just my 'puter or ISP connection?

 

Hey Rusty---the photos in your link aren't visible---is it just my 'puter or ISP connection?

Look at post number #6 from Wae in above link or here are the pictures right here. However it's important to read the other link, so these pictures make sense!

http://www.putrescence.org/media/thu...s.php?album=15

 

I'd know how to do the repair you outline since I already work on guitar amps, the older ones also develop issues with cracked or age-failed solder joints too.

Along with your great text the 2nd link with photos is very helpful to those maybe not familiar with this sort of repair.

Thanks again for your info here!

 

You and me both, JWA. I have 3 tube powered Ampegs and a '56 Bassman in my stable. One of them is newer but the Fender and the other 2 Ampegs have all been on my bench for various internal repair. The Module repair looks fairly safe in comparison to amplifiers, no lethal voltage to worry about.

Thanks Rusty for your input and linking Wae's pics, very helpful!

It's been a week now and since the first event that lasted several hours, so far my random un-lock trouble has not re-occurred. If it does, I know what to do.

Thanks,
Brad.

 

I bought an E350 (2004) Saturday and it started "unlocking" nonstop after I pressed the unlock button in the rear door. I pulled the fuse and bought it anyway. It was a crew van so it is pretty dirty. I'll be figuring out how to get to the module in the drivers side wall behind the seat. Thanks for the thread. i'll see if that's the issue.

 

Thanks Bro,
Please keep us posted on what you find and how you resolve the issue.

Brad

 

Will do! I got tied up and didn't get it done today. My son and I finished putting a 4r70w back together for his 97 f150 4x4 for the second time. Got her installed and it moved so we are happy.