Sorry for the duplicate post. I posted this in a different area at first but then was directed to this particular forum area.

Mornin' All,
Trying to do some trouble shooting on my own as I'm tired of spending $$ with my local "diesel" garage and getting ripped off. To start with, here's my symptoms:
1. Hard (very hard) to start in the morning. Gets harder every morning. Took me 10 minutes of cranking yesterday morning
2. Once it does start it's very loud, seems to run on just a couple of cylinders and lot's of white smoke
3. After about 10 minutes it's able to get down the road but then at about 2300 RPM and above it sputters, low power, and LOTS of white smoke again.
4. Lots of diesel smell, almost like it has a leak but no visible signs of leaking anywhere.

I've done a lot of research and seems to be leading me towards injector problem or in that general vicinity. However, my first step is to try to narrow it down a little more before I start throwing parts at it. So, first question is: what's my best option for downloading codes? I guess I need one that is CAN capable but seems like most of these or either a few thousand $$ or I have to go to something like a Scanguage or Bullydog. I've thought about putting a tuner on but I guess at that point I'm committing to keeping the truck for a few more years.

So, just initially looking for info on diagnostics equipment and/or test that will help me home in on or eliminate the issue(s). Second, if anyone has inputs on possible problems based on symptoms listed above that would be great too.

thanks in advance.

P.S. Had EGR delete done a year or so ago.

 

Scangauge2 is a good device for monitoring but not great for pulling codes.
You can find it at your local Autozone for $160.
There are also smartphone apps called Torque for Android, ($5 for the app) and Dashboss for iPhone. Not sure on the cost of Dashboss. With both of these you will need to buy a Bluetooth adapter for the OBD2 to communicate.


You can also perform some checks with a digital volt meter. The first thing I would check would be the FICM main power, it should be above 45 volts. Instructions for checking are in the tech folder.

 

Get a gauge as Justin suggested. You can check the ficm without any gauge if you want. Sounds as if it is the ficm. I would check that but first you need to load test each battery and the alternator first. If the batteries are low or bad then it will give the reading of the ficm a false reading.

 

This is the most important, the Alternator is the King, the Batteries are the Queens of your 6.0l system.

 

check into AE ( auto enginuity ) with the Ford specific bundle.
it is PC based and will read all the systems for you i.e power train, trans, ABS,
ect, ect. Then go to ebay and find a PC/ED manual for your year engine this will give you pin point trouble shooting for engine codes. Also use the search function at the top of the page.
If you decide to get AE riff raff diesel has the best price for it!

 

Looks like the guys have you going good


can you list what the shop did so far new parts

 

Ok, while waiting I just tested the FICM with a volt meter. It had 48v key on and about 19V cranking/running. So, I now have the FICM off and trying to get the power side board out. I'm guessing it's all this "hot glue" that's got it stuck. Any tricks to getting this out so I can inspect the solder joints?

 

you need to send it to ed at FICM repair
check his web sight. you wont be sorry

 

X2..............
weak alt or bad batteries killed your FICM

 

Hey Tim Sent ya a PM




Theres a Good Chance this Happened^^^^

Also check Batt cables and follow Grounds to where they mount on frame and engine

Would be best to send this FICM in its WAY WAY Low on Power something that's Usually More then Solder Joints

You can Try to fix just be prepared to pay extra if you cant fix it

 

Ok, I give. I got the board off and was just hoping to find an obvious failed joint but no such luck. I've repaired my own boards on other things in the past and saved a lot of $$ so was just hoping for the same. Without an obvious loose joint or "burned" component I don't feel like putting it on and off the truck hoping for the best. I'll try the guy at FICM repair since sounds like he has a lot of supporters (unless you guys are really him just drumming up business ) I guess I'll use the down time to check the bats and alt. Thanks for all the great input. I'm still in the market for test/monitoring tools so I'll look into yaw's suggestions for that as well.

 

If I didn't believe in what Ed@Ficmrepair.com did I would not say so. He defines quality in every sense of the word. You can't get a better product or find better service. PERIOD. I don't make a dime from Ed. I do like his product though.

 

Understand...was just kidding.

So, I just realized that I probably can't get a good test of the alternator without the truck running so is there a way to test it without the truck running or on a test bench? I guess I just don't want to hook up my new FICM to bad power and chance frying it again. Thoughts??

 

Sure check that Battery and alternator out first before you send off FICM

You also Should Check FICM VP and FICM LP

 

i liked the fact that he took the time to call me about my FICM and what was and wasn't wrong with it before he took my money