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First, I will start with respect: Anyone who has driven a 2wd F100 three on the tree in the winter gets a salute from me! I moved ours from the barn, down the lane to get the paper, and then into the shop since it is its turn in the shop. LOL! Wow! We have packed snow everywhere, and it took a lot of patience to do what I just listed. It's 0F this morning, so it took a little to just get it started. Any incline was a challenge. I had to get started 150' back from the shop where there is no incline to get the clutch out and the wheels gripped. It's in though!
This 63' is a driver, and always will be. The clutch chatters, and I am pretty sure it is because the front cab supports are gone. So it is time to do something about that. I see you can buy them, which is fine. But the budget is tight on this one and I wouldn't mind reinforcing the cab further by going all the way across if there is room above the trans. Anybody make their own front supports here? Is there a dimension for how high the cab should be above the frame or any other reference? Anybody come up with rubber isolators that can be used instead of the mount kit? Just getting ideas together before I get it in the air and start this process. I was throwing around in my head finding a piece of square tubing to go across if there is room.
I built the ones on my '62 about 15 years ago.....before repop panels existed. Sorry no pics.
Mine were totally gone, but the floor was pretty good. I used thin wall 2"x3" box tube for the mount itself, welded to the floor and sill. Then added some diagonal braces down to the rocker. I made it really stout as I knew they tend to rust there.
It was a ton of work since I didn't remove the cab to do it. Should last forever though.
Will try to get a pic if possible.
I built the ones on my '62 about 15 years ago.....before repop panels existed. Sorry no pics.
Mine were totally gone, but the floor was pretty good. I used thin wall 2"x3" box tube for the mount itself, welded to the floor and sill. Then added some diagonal braces down to the rocker. I made it really stout as I knew they tend to rust there.
It was a ton of work since I didn't remove the cab to do it. Should last forever though.
Will try to get a pic if possible.
I'd like to see pics If any are available. I've thought about using the same thing to repair my 64 f100 cab mounts.
Crazed, look under the crew cab. 14 ga. galv mounts that i made.
Garbz
I took notice to the mounts on the crew when I went to look at it. Also seen the rear galvanized roll pan. I had a suspicion it was a 4x4 when I looked at the patch on passenger floor. Actually mentioned it to the guy but he wasn't to familiar with old fords. I'll see about getting a picture of the cab mounts......once the snow ain't up past the doors
Ok, here's a couple pics of my mounts. The truck is stored in a cow barn so I didn't feel like crawling around in cow sh__ for more pics. This is a 4x4, but I think 2wd is the same.
Hope this helps....
Hi,
I drive a '65 F-100. It used to have a 3 speed. Worked ok. I have a t-98 in there now. I like the 4 speed better. I recently had to make cab mounts too. I made mine out of 11 ga mild steel. That is right at 1/8" thick. I made one rectangle, tall enough to go from the horizontal seam down(in the cab) to where the rubber is. Then I made a another rectangle to go on top of the rubber. I drilled a hole for the 1/2" bolt to go thru it. I had to bend this bottom piece so it would go above the frame. I was able to do this inna vice. The part of that I bent was about 1&1/2 wide, at about a 30 deg angle was all.
I then with a zipp wheel cut the opening of the existing cab mount open so I could put the bolt in its place.Then I took the first pc. and cut out the upper left corner so the two bolts in the cab would not interfere.
I then put a wire wheel on my 4" grinder and cleaned up where the welding was going to happen ( rust and molten metal do NOT go well together). OK, then I put the rubber cushion in place, installed the bolt, tightened that. I then put the piece in place that would connect the two pieces, and welded for an inch, then moved to another spot and welded for another inch etc, till it was welded in place.
I remember 9&1/2" from the horizontal seam to where the rubber was. You could possibly scrounge the rubber cushion. That part I can not help you with. I live in Asheville N. C., Chat back if you feel like it, Cheers Pete
Ok, here's a couple pics of my mounts. The truck is stored in a cow barn so I didn't feel like crawling around in cow sh__ for more pics. This is a 4x4, but I think 2wd is the same.
Hope this helps....
I have seen quite a few trucks fixed like this back east in the rust belt. The mounts were about the only thing left.
Somebody correct me if I am wrong....but I think that 4x4 is a lot different than the 4x2 F100. I am trying to visualize how the bolt and the bushings get inside the mount area. Do you reach from the door side of the truck all the way back in there? Seems like that would be a trick. There is no access above it through the floor. I am thinking like Tinman that 3x3 tubing with diagonals to the front of the cab and to the floor would be the way to go. I had no idea how far up this body needed to go. It was sitting on the frame. I can see that it would be near impossible to put in the OEM style with the cab on it.
Oh, what are you guys using for bushings asides from OEM style? Anything cheap and available? It's amazing how good the other mounts are. I think the salt splashes up from the front wheels onto these front cab mounts.
The four wheel drive uses the exact same mount as a two wheel drive for 61 through 64
It also shares the mount in 65 F100 and 250
It also shares the mount in 66 F250 only.
66 F100 four wheel drives use the 65 66 two wheel drive mount. Here is the mount for the drivers side which is longer than the passenger side for a 66 four wheel drive crew cab
Here is the above shot of the mount. I used a fuel tank mount for the depressed area and 1 1/4" emt inside for support.
Since I used box tube, I think I just ran the bolt all the way through the floor.....maybe a 1/2 inch carriage bolt? I don't remember.
My front mounts had collapsed to the point where the doors wouldn't open properly.
On my old '63 with flintstone flloors was so bad the sagging cab broke the steering column shaft!!!
Since I used box tube, I think I just ran the bolt all the way through the floor.....maybe a 1/2 inch carriage bolt? I don't remember.
My front mounts had collapsed to the point where the doors wouldn't open properly.
On my old '63 with flintstone flloors was so bad the sagging cab broke the steering column shaft!!!
That may be what I do as well. I suppose no isolator is needed above the floor.
My cab is sitting right down on the frame. I'm surprised I don't have more issues than I seem to with it driving. I am jacking up the cab in a couple places to minimize the possible damage. It isn't exactly going up easy, which makes me uneasy. I am trying to use what is left of the outline of the support to figure how much room above the bushing is needed. Looks like almost 3" on estimation. No wonder it looks like the rear of the truck is jacked up. The front is settled down on the wheel. Front looks good that way though. We will tackle that when we get the cab actually sitting on something.
I am currently trying to decide rather to make or buy the front cab mounts for my 1965 f100 4x4. Mine are totally shot. In this thread you guys mention that they are available for purchase. I am having trouble finding a source for them. Can you all give me any vendor's that have them available? Thanks!
I am currently trying to decide rather to make or buy the front cab mounts for my 1965 f100 4x4. Mine are totally shot. In this thread you guys mention that they are available for purchase. I am having trouble finding a source for them. Can you all give me any vendor's that have them available? Thanks!
LMC Part numbers: 49-8810 / 49-8811. But I would definitely ask them for a photo to be sure same as yours....just sayin...
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