460 idling high
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Your closed throttle TPS voltage is right on the border of being too high. I tried watching your video but I had too much buffering to get an accurate count. Once or twice I did see a code related to TPS output, but I would not be 100% comfortable to say it is bad.
I did notice your tach did not read Zero with the truck off?
Personally I have not had any success using the spray method to find a vacuum leak on a fuel injected engine. I find testing each vacuum circuit with a handheld vacuum pump/gauge is the only to know for certain.
If the PCM is sensing a lean condition, caused by unmetered air aka vacuum leak, it will dump in fuel to compensate.
I did notice your tach did not read Zero with the truck off?
Personally I have not had any success using the spray method to find a vacuum leak on a fuel injected engine. I find testing each vacuum circuit with a handheld vacuum pump/gauge is the only to know for certain.
If the PCM is sensing a lean condition, caused by unmetered air aka vacuum leak, it will dump in fuel to compensate.
should anything be done about code 636(transmission oil cold)? or cold intake air below 50*f?(114) its been 10*-29* here the last few days do these codes mean sensors are bad or that the truck knows its cold out?
I feel I'm going to have gray hair when I figure this out its driving me nuts
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
Yes your truck knows that it is cold out.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
Your closed throttle TPS voltage is right on the border of being too high. I tried watching your video but I had too much buffering to get an accurate count. Once or twice I did see a code related to TPS output, but I would not be 100% comfortable to say it is bad.
I did notice your tach did not read Zero with the truck off?
Personally I have not had any success using the spray method to find a vacuum leak on a fuel injected engine. I find testing each vacuum circuit with a handheld vacuum pump/gauge is the only to know for certain.
If the PCM is sensing a lean condition, caused by unmetered air aka vacuum leak, it will dump in fuel to compensate.
I did notice your tach did not read Zero with the truck off?
Personally I have not had any success using the spray method to find a vacuum leak on a fuel injected engine. I find testing each vacuum circuit with a handheld vacuum pump/gauge is the only to know for certain.
If the PCM is sensing a lean condition, caused by unmetered air aka vacuum leak, it will dump in fuel to compensate.
ok thanks, on my way to dmv to get this beast on the road then running around to get some tools to help Diagnostics, I will post back
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
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From: Upstate NY
well I shouldve known better that dmv would be closed today, I feel like a dumbell I went all the way down to the office and saw it was closed.
so I went to sears and bought a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge, came back home and tested the truck, I wasnt able to adjust my tps sensor today because after playing with the gauges my back started to hurt and its about 19* out so I just got back inside
my readings were:
fuel pressure - KOEO 39psi
KOER 31psi
KOER without FPR vacuum line attached 40psi
not much change if I romped the throttle went up a couple psi, when I turned the truck off the truck didnt really drop any psi, in a little over 15 minutes it dropped 2 psi, same results on both fuel tanks
Vacuum gauge I connected to the tree on the manifold where the brake booster, FPR etc. hook up I saw 20.25in of vacuum at idle, as I slowly increased throttle it did not really change, was not jumpy or any dead spots either
let me know what you think fellas, thanks
so I went to sears and bought a vacuum gauge and fuel pressure gauge, came back home and tested the truck, I wasnt able to adjust my tps sensor today because after playing with the gauges my back started to hurt and its about 19* out so I just got back inside
my readings were:
fuel pressure - KOEO 39psi
KOER 31psi
KOER without FPR vacuum line attached 40psi
not much change if I romped the throttle went up a couple psi, when I turned the truck off the truck didnt really drop any psi, in a little over 15 minutes it dropped 2 psi, same results on both fuel tanks
Vacuum gauge I connected to the tree on the manifold where the brake booster, FPR etc. hook up I saw 20.25in of vacuum at idle, as I slowly increased throttle it did not really change, was not jumpy or any dead spots either
let me know what you think fellas, thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
It is possible that someone has done a no-no and turned the stop screw on the throttle.
That would give a little higher idle with a higher voltage. I like to see about 0.9VDC but it can go as high as 1.0VDC.
For more information on the TPS go to this link:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
That would give a little higher idle with a higher voltage. I like to see about 0.9VDC but it can go as high as 1.0VDC.
For more information on the TPS go to this link:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
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Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Upstate NY
It is possible that someone has done a no-no and turned the stop screw on the throttle.
That would give a little higher idle with a higher voltage. I like to see about 0.9VDC but it can go as high as 1.0VDC.
For more information on the TPS go to this link:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
That would give a little higher idle with a higher voltage. I like to see about 0.9VDC but it can go as high as 1.0VDC.
For more information on the TPS go to this link:
Fuel Injection Technical Library » Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
/
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
Use caution taking the TPS screws out. I got one out, snapped the head off the other. My cousin had to TIG weld a nut onto what was left so I could get it out. IIRC they're M4x1.25. Use anti-seize on reinstallation.
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From: Upstate NY
hey guys wanted to update this, so I got the truck on the road today and drove it around, got back home and realized its idling correctly
I think maybe from all the sitting it has done it just cleared something out while driving it and it seems fine now, has a slight miss but it has original cap+rotor,wires etc.
I know that it has those stupid bosch plugs that are like $7 a piece I really wanna get those out and put regular autolite or motorcraft plugs in
I think maybe from all the sitting it has done it just cleared something out while driving it and it seems fine now, has a slight miss but it has original cap+rotor,wires etc.
I know that it has those stupid bosch plugs that are like $7 a piece I really wanna get those out and put regular autolite or motorcraft plugs in
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
hey guys wanted to update this, so I got the truck on the road today and drove it around, got back home and realized its idling correctly
I think maybe from all the sitting it has done it just cleared something out while driving it and it seems fine now, has a slight miss but it has original cap+rotor,wires etc.
I know that it has those stupid bosch plugs that are like $7 a piece I really wanna get those out and put regular autolite or motorcraft plugs in
I think maybe from all the sitting it has done it just cleared something out while driving it and it seems fine now, has a slight miss but it has original cap+rotor,wires etc.
I know that it has those stupid bosch plugs that are like $7 a piece I really wanna get those out and put regular autolite or motorcraft plugs in
Thanks for the update
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