Another Newbie Question
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Douglasville, GA
Another Newbie Question
OK, so here goes. The patient is still the 1966 F100 with the 352 2V. The ole girl idles great, and runs down the road great. The problem is on acceleration. Even when sitting still out of gear, under no load, if I give her the gas quickly, or even normally, she dies. If I "feather" the pedal, she picks right up. This occurs cold or warm. Its like hittling the pedal just cuts off the gas supply. Any thoughts on causes? Carb just out of adjustment. A friend mentioned the accelerator pump...possible?
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: 7th realm of hell, Va.
Start with the basics, condition of the plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Are you still running a points type distributor? If so the condition of the points. Check the timing. Use a vacuum gage to check manifold vacuum ( read it off the manifold if there is a port and not the carburetor).
Matt
Matt
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: tujunga, calif
I'll bet your friend is correct or at least a good thing to check. Remove the air cleaner and with the engine OFF move the throttle linkage and see if you are getting a shot of gas out of the nozzles.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Douglasville, GA
Start with the basics, condition of the plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Are you still running a points type distributor? If so the condition of the points. Check the timing. Use a vacuum gage to check manifold vacuum ( read it off the manifold if there is a port and not the carburetor).
Matt
Matt
Ignition was changed over to Pertronix module and coil when I put on the new wires. Problem was there before the switch and didn't change any after.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 860
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From: Asheville, NC
Sounds like there is a temporary lean condition as the carb is transitioning from the idle to the primary circuit. The accelerator pump diaphragm (think that is the type on the stock 2V) could be damaged or the actuating linkage rod needs adjustment. A vacuum leak is also possible.
I am sure you have tried adjusting the idle screws but the best lean idle is easiest to set using a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. Idle circuit set too lean is another possibility.
A third possibility is the primary circuit is too lean due to engine modifications such as cam change, improving air flow via heads or intake mods or change.
Is it an automatic transmission? If so the dashpot is a possibility.
Last thing I can think of is ignition timing, but sure you checked that when you did the ignition upgrade. The vacuum advance should be hooked to manifold vacuum and this line should be disconnected and plugged when you set the timing.
I am sure you have tried adjusting the idle screws but the best lean idle is easiest to set using a vacuum gauge connected to manifold vacuum. Idle circuit set too lean is another possibility.
A third possibility is the primary circuit is too lean due to engine modifications such as cam change, improving air flow via heads or intake mods or change.
Is it an automatic transmission? If so the dashpot is a possibility.
Last thing I can think of is ignition timing, but sure you checked that when you did the ignition upgrade. The vacuum advance should be hooked to manifold vacuum and this line should be disconnected and plugged when you set the timing.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Bogging down, hesitating, stumbling from a dead stop or when accelerating at speed. The usual cause: Defective 2100 series 2V Auto-Lite/Motorcraft accelerator pump and check valve.
Fleet Mechanic
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From: Billings Montana
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Oregon
Sounds like there is a temporary lean condition as the carb is transitionin
Last thing I can think of is ignition timing, but sure you checked that when you did the ignition upgrade. The vacuum advance should be hooked to manifold vacuum and this line should be disconnected and plugged when you set the timing.
Last thing I can think of is ignition timing, but sure you checked that when you did the ignition upgrade. The vacuum advance should be hooked to manifold vacuum and this line should be disconnected and plugged when you set the timing.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Douglasville, GA
Haha. I appreciate all the quick responses. Unfortunately you assume I know entirely too much about mechanics/engines! I do not own nor have I used a timing light or vacum gauge. Sounds like I may need to take her in to someone for a little checkup. The only reason I could do the ignition upgrade was because it was plug N play! And changing the starter was pretty hard to screw up, haha. I have noticed the last couple times I drove her a strange whistling sound in the engine bay, I bet a vacum line has come off somewhere. But I don't even know what to look for, let alone the difference between ported vac vs manifold vac. But hey, at least I can sound like I know what I am talking about when I take her in! Thanks again!
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
If you are hearing a "whistle"; find the hose coming off the distributor vacuum advance and see if it is still plugged into the carb. If it is a auto trans; check hose at the back of the intake next to the firewall. Check the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover, it should hook to the back of the carb or to a port in the intake.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Douglasville, GA
If you are hearing a "whistle"; find the hose coming off the distributor vacuum advance and see if it is still plugged into the carb. If it is a auto trans; check hose at the back of the intake next to the firewall. Check the PCV valve in the passenger side valve cover, it should hook to the back of the carb or to a port in the intake.
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