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BWD - Broke While Driving. Go to NAPA and get a GPR-109 to tide you over. Then get online and look for a Western Plow 56131K or Stancor 586-902.

 

Update - that's the oil pressure sender for the lame dash gauge. Not related to your starting issues.

Try jumping the glow plug relay, then see if it'll start at least. That'll tell you if the new glow plugs are enough to deal with the no-start.

 

UPDATE-
Thanks again everyone for your input and advice on my issue(s)..
unfortunately, this is not a good update-truck is still sitting in my driveway. so i went to NAPA and i bought a good GPR, since i was sick of hearing the other one whine when i turned the key on, and my father seemed to think that my fuel pump was bad, so I bought a new one and replaced that as well, along with the heating element inside of the fuel bowl since the wire was broken. Still no start, and this GPR from NAPA still makes the ungodly whining noise... Now, while trying to crank it, the truck started just clicking at the starter solenoid...so with this, i also replaced the solenoid with one from NAPA. and it still just clicks. starter is brand new (less than 2 months) and my batteries have plenty of juice (ive been monitoring the voltage and putting them on the charger as needed).
I'm getting very, very pissed off, and im getting sick of throwing money at this S.O.B. Could all of these problems be related to a bad ground? is this why 3 different glow plug relays make a whining noise? And as for the no start issue, my father seems to think that i may have a bad Injection Driver Module(?). What are the chances of this? we've been looking at wiring prints and he is an electrician for the Southwest airlines so i trust his opinion, but i want to be sure before investing another $450.

 

here is a list of the parts i've replaced or checked-
-glow plug relay
-starter solenoid
-camshaft sensor
-power to glow plugs
-fuel pump
-fuel bowl heater element (fuel bowl is filling up)
-exhaust back pressure sensor (cleaned tube and ports)
- all wiring harnesses/connectors under valve covers and on top of motor
and as a recap, when the truck died, it started running like s#!*, "check engine" light came on, and eventually died on me

and one more question- how do i test power going to my injectors? thanks again everyone

 

You can test the injectors through the pins on the valve cover gasket. The outer ones are gp's, the ones beside them are the injectors. Ground to the middle pin and they should show about 3.2 ohms.

Do you have any smoke out the tailpipe while cranking?

I have to ask, maybe it has been asked but I don't feel like looking back, is your cam sensor from ford or IH? Do you have tach movement while cranking?

Do you have a wait to start light?

 

If you have access to a scanner that can do a buzz test it will verify if the injectors / IDM are working correctly.

If you purchased the new CPS from anyplace other than Ford or IH I strongly suggest getting another one from Ford. There have been so ..... many members on here where the first thing they tried was the CPS, continued replacing parts and actually fixed the problem. But because they purchased the CPS from someplace other than OEM the no start condition remained, i.e. they introduced another problem.

Not trying to spend your money, just stating known facts.

 

Ok, and do i have to crank the motor over to see if im getting the right readings or should they have constant power to those pins on the valve covers with the key on?

and the CPS came from oreillis but im waiting for one to come in at the dealership, that will be replaced. someone told me that earlier in the thread.

when im cranking the motor, it seems like it wants to fire, but its not getting that "kick" to get it going. seems like its starving of fuel, but the fuel bowl is filling up.

and with my last attempt, i fried the starter. lol. i guess this is where lifetime warranties come in handy

 

I cannot tell if there is any smoke, but i can smell diesel fumes. WTS light comes on as usual, and tachometer also moves as normal