Curb idle setting
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: NE Washington State
Curb idle setting
The ford instructions for my 351w F250 say that the egr vac. hose should be removed and plugged to set curb idle - 650 RPM in my case.
If the egr only functions when warm and with eng. reved, why would the egr even come into play at such low rpm's?
Just curious - I've never even checked timing before, but am learning now.
Cleaned up the timing marks yesterday - couldn't even see them earlier.
Chuck M.
If the egr only functions when warm and with eng. reved, why would the egr even come into play at such low rpm's?
Just curious - I've never even checked timing before, but am learning now.
Cleaned up the timing marks yesterday - couldn't even see them earlier.
Chuck M.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I'm not familiar with such a set of instructions, but I *am* familiar with needing to disconnect the vacuum hose from the diaphragm on the front of the distributor.
What exact Ford instructions are telling you this? IOW which shop manual, what FPS number, etc.
What exact Ford instructions are telling you this? IOW which shop manual, what FPS number, etc.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
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From: NE Washington State
curb idle setting and timing issues
The instructions I have are from the ford label in the front of the engine compartment. I think is called the VEC label?
Removing the vac. advance per these instructions is only for the initial ignition timing. which is what I am trying to do now - with some difficulity.
question, how hard should it be to rotate the distributor after the hold down clamp is loosened? I'm not the strongest guy in the world, but I can't get to move more than a sixteenth of an inch.
Also any tips on better visibility of the timing marks? Anything wrong with painting the target mark? In my case 10 deg. btdc?
If I can figure out how to post pics' I will send a pic of the instructions.m the right side of the form has the vac. hose diagram.
thanks,
Chuck M
Removing the vac. advance per these instructions is only for the initial ignition timing. which is what I am trying to do now - with some difficulity.
question, how hard should it be to rotate the distributor after the hold down clamp is loosened? I'm not the strongest guy in the world, but I can't get to move more than a sixteenth of an inch.
Also any tips on better visibility of the timing marks? Anything wrong with painting the target mark? In my case 10 deg. btdc?
If I can figure out how to post pics' I will send a pic of the instructions.m the right side of the form has the vac. hose diagram.
thanks,
Chuck M
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
VECI label - Vehicle Emissions Control Information
If that label says to do it then I would do it.
Your distributor seems to be stuck, mine has done that, too. Some guys use penetrating fluid (e.g. PB Blaster) and let it soak, I think I used a pair of giant Channellocks to grab and twist it.
I painted three lines on my harmonic balancer, one each for 0°, 10° and 16° BTDC. One is a solid white line, one is dashed white, the other is solid yellow.
Read here for how to post pictures:
User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
There is a Testing forum where you can go post away with test posts to try stuff out without anybody caring:
Testing..... - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
If that label says to do it then I would do it.
Your distributor seems to be stuck, mine has done that, too. Some guys use penetrating fluid (e.g. PB Blaster) and let it soak, I think I used a pair of giant Channellocks to grab and twist it.
I painted three lines on my harmonic balancer, one each for 0°, 10° and 16° BTDC. One is a solid white line, one is dashed white, the other is solid yellow.
Read here for how to post pictures:
User Gallery & Picture Display Help - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
There is a Testing forum where you can go post away with test posts to try stuff out without anybody caring:
Testing..... - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 84
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From: NE Washington State
curb idle and timing issues
Thanks - those are probably two links I should have reviewed when I first joined the forum. I don't have any PB blaster right now but will start with wd40 for now. Just want to make sure I don't break anything expensive.
I have may other issues anyway,as I currently have some vacuum leaks - the biggest concern is under the carb. - I'm assuming between the carb and intake manifold. I snugged up the 4 mounting bolts but it is still leaking. I'm using the spray carb. cleaner method and I get an immediate idle response when spraying.
Is it true that there no sense in adjusting the timing as long as you have vacuum leaks?
I have may other issues anyway,as I currently have some vacuum leaks - the biggest concern is under the carb. - I'm assuming between the carb and intake manifold. I snugged up the 4 mounting bolts but it is still leaking. I'm using the spray carb. cleaner method and I get an immediate idle response when spraying.
Is it true that there no sense in adjusting the timing as long as you have vacuum leaks?
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Los Angeles
I too have a truck with problems, am learning and work on a budget(both time and money unfortunately).
I dont know if there is a correct answer, if both eventually get done. If it were me I'd fix vacuum issues first. I haven't messed with my timing yet but I noticed a major difference by finding and fixing vacuum issues. It was cheap and it taught me a lot about where things are, what they are and what they do.
I guess the major variable world be how far off(if any) your timing is. If it's not terrible I'd assume vacuum is a much bigger issue.
Vacuum effects almost everything. From idle to your transmission shifting. I'd assume that a vacuum leak would also effect your vacuum advance as well(though with it being ported I'm not positive).
I think you will see more results for your time and money working on the vacuum issues. Though I do say this without having worked on my own timing. So it really doesn't mean much. Hopefully it gives you a little to think about though.
Good luck!
I dont know if there is a correct answer, if both eventually get done. If it were me I'd fix vacuum issues first. I haven't messed with my timing yet but I noticed a major difference by finding and fixing vacuum issues. It was cheap and it taught me a lot about where things are, what they are and what they do.
I guess the major variable world be how far off(if any) your timing is. If it's not terrible I'd assume vacuum is a much bigger issue.
Vacuum effects almost everything. From idle to your transmission shifting. I'd assume that a vacuum leak would also effect your vacuum advance as well(though with it being ported I'm not positive).
I think you will see more results for your time and money working on the vacuum issues. Though I do say this without having worked on my own timing. So it really doesn't mean much. Hopefully it gives you a little to think about though.
Good luck!
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
So, yes, I agree with Charlie above, fix your vacuum leaks, first, as well as anything else engine-operation-related you know to need attention.
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