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It's easy to sit back and spend someone else's money; however, that is something for you to decide upon once you figure out just what you want to do with the truck. Look in the "sticky links" at the top of the forum and you will find many links for a number of things we do to these trucks. Read what they are and why they are done and then decide if you need it or not. There are a few here that use plows full time and can give you better info about what is good and not for that specific platform. Most good suspension company's (pro comp, fab tech etc..) make leveling kits but like I said earlier, kits for our trucks are getting harder to find as the money to keep many of these items in stock is just not there anymore. Leveling kits should be out there but full suspension kits are getting slim. Just like custom wheels for larger tires, the back spacing on most new wheels are not enough for our leaf spring design front ends and are set more on the coil fronts on newer trucks.
Would 33" tires look dumb with just a leveling kit? I was also thinking about wheel spacers
33's stock, 35's leveled. It's obviously subject to opinion, but I think a leveling kit makes 33's look tiny on these trucks. Decent hub-centric wheel spacers are going to be $$$ as well.
35's may look better but here again, you want a plow truck so larger tires mean higher gears (3.73 up to 3.5 or so) which means less low end power that you will need to plow unless you change gears as well and put in 4.10's or 4.30's. Every upgrade has pro's and con's that must be weighed out.
So say, in theory that I put a leveling kit, and 35" tires on it. What would I have to do suspension wise, and anything else if I were to mount a plow on it
Contact "Mowing Man" in this forum. He posts a lot about issues with plowing so he would be a good source of info. Send him a PM and see what he recommends. I live in SoCal so the only time I see snow ( unless I drive to it) is on tv.
I have a leveling kit and I plow with 35's. My front springs are not X codes and they have de-arched a bit but the front of the truck doesn't squat even when I put my 8ft Western on. I see no need to re-gear for 35's. With a chip and gauges, I have had no problems towing relatively heavy (9k pound travel trailer, a 3 horse slant loaded down, as well as a dual axle dump trailer loaded up pretty good) with the stock 3.73's.
Def find a truck here in Fl to take home with you. I looked & looked in Ohio for a clean superduty & most were rusted out from the salt and/or had a plow bracket.
I found my dually in Clearwater where it spent most of its life and not a spec of rust anywhere. Keep looking on craigslist and you'll find a deal on a nice 7.3
What part of Fl are you located? I'll keep an eye out for you.
Is it worth looking at a dealership or trying to buy from craigslist. And I'm in tallahassee fl. And is performance the first thing I should mod if anything (intake, exhaust, etc.)
"Handle like a sports car" was mentioned. I have the power to accelerate like a sports car... an 8000-pound sports car. It doesn't handle like a sports car. That being said, the 7.3L is held back by the engineering/tuning of the time, but many aftermarket companies provide upgrades for this beloved engine. The 6.4L and the 6.7L need the body removed to gain full access to the engine, so factor that into your decision-making.
Axle wrap: This is a problem if you power up too much or lift too much. If you do a combination of lift and power, ladder bars are frequently needed. I'm stock height with stock tires and I had to install ladder bars.
So basically there's a point of too much lift for the stock frame/chassis to hold and I just need to support it so the torque won't warp the whole frame and basically ruin the truck? And yeah does having to remove the body to gain access to the engine apply to the newer 6.0, 6.2, 6.4, 6.7 trucks like 04' thru 13' ?
So basically there's a point of too much lift for the stock frame/chassis to hold and I just need to support it so the torque won't warp the whole frame and basically ruin the truck? And yeah does having to remove the body to gain access to the engine apply to the newer 6.0, 6.2, 6.4, 6.7 trucks like 04' thru 13' ?
It doesn't damage the frame - that's one tough sumbich. It's the springs that flex the wrong way, and it can damage components on the driveline. I fixed my driveline, installed the ladder bars, and I'm good to go.
6.4L and 6.7L Superduty years are the ones that need the body removed. I don't know if this holds true with the gasser versions of those trucks.
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