Rookie Resto
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From: Virginia
Rookie Resto
Ok so I just got a 1984 F250 4x4 351 w 4spd. Ok so I know if rusted or bad get rid of it or fix it. But where should I really start. The mechanical part is easy I have done all that. The frame is solid and straight the body has no dents but cancer at doors and bed. The floor pan will be a right and left replacement and lower cab corners. Thanks for any advice soon as I figure out how I will add pics.
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From: Haysville, KS
I guess I'm not sure of your question. Find rust, fix rust. Pretty much it.
If there is a lot, you might want to start adding up cost / labor vs donor cab, bed. And throw in your skill level and time available.
For me, the challenging part is always finding the seams / spot welds to remove panels. Fitting patch panels is pretty straightforward; just takes patience - mark, cut close to fit, grind for exact fit.
My 63 had bad floors and bad inner / outer cab corners as well as bad spots on the doors and passenger A-Pillar. Also bad corners on the front fenders. I was going to fix it all until I found a donor cab and front clip that was rust free. Bought it for $800 and called it good. Best buy I ever made. I still need to fix the rusty bed (can't find one anywhere) but so be it. I did a frame-off restoration and am just now getting to the wiring and interior after a year. Still need to fix the bed..
If there is a lot, you might want to start adding up cost / labor vs donor cab, bed. And throw in your skill level and time available.
For me, the challenging part is always finding the seams / spot welds to remove panels. Fitting patch panels is pretty straightforward; just takes patience - mark, cut close to fit, grind for exact fit.
My 63 had bad floors and bad inner / outer cab corners as well as bad spots on the doors and passenger A-Pillar. Also bad corners on the front fenders. I was going to fix it all until I found a donor cab and front clip that was rust free. Bought it for $800 and called it good. Best buy I ever made. I still need to fix the rusty bed (can't find one anywhere) but so be it. I did a frame-off restoration and am just now getting to the wiring and interior after a year. Still need to fix the bed..
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From: Virginia
It will be a total restoration the inside cab corners are pretty bad. I have some skill mechanically and will replace front fenders and searching for a donor bed. The cab repairs between myself and some buddies we can fab the inner corners of the cab. Having never restored a truck my question would be should I disassemble as much as possible or my buddies idea and work in sections. He said do the front everything in front of the cab then the cab then the bed. Just looking to see if there is a good attack plan.
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From: Virginia
Doing it in sections is a good idea. What I am afraid is you will need a cab swapped in. Unless you are very good, the inside of the cab corners is hard to repair. It depends on how bad it is. The cab as a re-enforcement beam or channel that runs from one side of the cab to the other, and this is what the rear body mounts sit on, and the back legs of the seat. This channel runs down on either side and is welded to the cab corners. When the ends of this channel rust out, it's very difficult to repair correctly.
They may be making something now to fix this, they call it the "rear pillar" repair. I am not sure if it's the solution or not, and how hard it would be to install. Here's a link, it's down the page a little bit.
Ford Repair Panels - 1980-1986 Ford Pickup
They may be making something now to fix this, they call it the "rear pillar" repair. I am not sure if it's the solution or not, and how hard it would be to install. Here's a link, it's down the page a little bit.
Ford Repair Panels - 1980-1986 Ford Pickup
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Working in sections is fine, but with that much rust I'd be looking at a donor cab. Short of that, the best way would be to strip the truck and work on the sections off the frame. There will be some things that are near impossible to get to with it mounted.
Then of course, when everything is off the frame, you'll want to blast and paint / powdercoat it. Then there is easy access to the brake lines; you'll want to replace those, then, it goes on and on..
Restoration is such fun..
I was just going to fix some rust on my 63.. You can see where that went..
Then of course, when everything is off the frame, you'll want to blast and paint / powdercoat it. Then there is easy access to the brake lines; you'll want to replace those, then, it goes on and on..
Restoration is such fun..
I was just going to fix some rust on my 63.. You can see where that went..
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Yea a cab replacement isn't out of the question. I got a better look at the inside corners just some small rust holes but will have to see once the cab comes off. Because I don't know what is the difference between a F150 and F250 cab I hoping nothing as a F150 cab has to be more available and cheaper. The fun begins in two weeks I have to work next week end and this week end was transporting the truck t the rebuild place. I think at this point I will remove everything and do a frame off. This truck had the desired drive line I wanted and was free. Thanks everyone for input I totally plan to pick everybody's brain on this
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check out what me and my uncle just finished doing to his 84, not worth the time to go fix all the rust, so we gave it a new body, along with redoing just about everything else,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Virginia
check out what me and my uncle just finished doing to his 84, not worth the time to go fix all the rust, so we gave it a new body, along with redoing just about everything else,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post13448957
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From: Virginia
F150 cabs are the same as f250 cabs, except the numbers are not right on the door jamb tag and the vin won't be right for a f150. Not much to worry about except it will be questioned if you sell it someday.
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Just document what you do and the VIN issue won't be a problem. I know in Kansas, as long as the 'hidden' VIN matches the title you'r good to go if you've also document things like a cab swap, etc. The hidden VIN is on the frame..
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