Pull a CV frontend tomorrow need advice
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Joined: Oct 2013
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I believe it is metric and fairly large like 20 mm.
Save all the hardware, some of it is expensive to replace.
Save the power steering lines.
Save the brake lines if possible.
It weighs about 250 lbs altogether with the brakes, hubs, springs, A-arms and crossmember... so bring a friend and a big jack and don't work under it while taking the hardware out.
Save all the hardware, some of it is expensive to replace.
Save the power steering lines.
Save the brake lines if possible.
It weighs about 250 lbs altogether with the brakes, hubs, springs, A-arms and crossmember... so bring a friend and a big jack and don't work under it while taking the hardware out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 20
From: West Virginia
MEASURE! measure the back mounts, from control arm bolt to bolt while on the vic. So you know what the space is when you mount them. The salvage yard removed mine and wouldn't allow me access to the car to measure.
Then repost it here for the rest of us. I would also recommend cutting the area where the mounts for the control arms mount to the vic off of the car. Even if you have to torch them. Be good templates and may save you some fab work.
Take as much of the steering column as you can!!! Write down the VIN number! Make sure to note what tag is on the spring. Look for cracks on the aluminum housing. My first one was cracked, it looked good but apparently hit something and had new parts, the area where the lower control arm mounts to the x member had the crack.
While it is in the air, rotate the spindles and listen for a ticking noise. If they are ticking you need new bearings (it is a hub assembly) and they cost 150 each for a good set. So be ready to negotiate the price down if they are shot!
I learned some of that the hard way!
Then repost it here for the rest of us. I would also recommend cutting the area where the mounts for the control arms mount to the vic off of the car. Even if you have to torch them. Be good templates and may save you some fab work.
Take as much of the steering column as you can!!! Write down the VIN number! Make sure to note what tag is on the spring. Look for cracks on the aluminum housing. My first one was cracked, it looked good but apparently hit something and had new parts, the area where the lower control arm mounts to the x member had the crack.
While it is in the air, rotate the spindles and listen for a ticking noise. If they are ticking you need new bearings (it is a hub assembly) and they cost 150 each for a good set. So be ready to negotiate the price down if they are shot!
I learned some of that the hard way!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 251
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MEASURE! measure the back mounts, from control arm bolt to bolt while on the vic. So you know what the space is when you mount them. The salvage yard removed mine and wouldn't allow me access to the car to measure.
Then repost it here for the rest of us. I would also recommend cutting the area where the mounts for the control arms mount to the vic off of the car. Even if you have to torch them. Be good templates and may save you some fab work.
Take as much of the steering column as you can!!! Write down the VIN number! Make sure to note what tag is on the spring. Look for cracks on the aluminum housing. My first one was cracked, it looked good but apparently hit something and had new parts, the area where the lower control arm mounts to the x member had the crack.
While it is in the air, rotate the spindles and listen for a ticking noise. If they are ticking you need new bearings (it is a hub assembly) and they cost 150 each for a good set. So be ready to negotiate the price down if they are shot!
I learned some of that the hard way!
Then repost it here for the rest of us. I would also recommend cutting the area where the mounts for the control arms mount to the vic off of the car. Even if you have to torch them. Be good templates and may save you some fab work.
Take as much of the steering column as you can!!! Write down the VIN number! Make sure to note what tag is on the spring. Look for cracks on the aluminum housing. My first one was cracked, it looked good but apparently hit something and had new parts, the area where the lower control arm mounts to the x member had the crack.
While it is in the air, rotate the spindles and listen for a ticking noise. If they are ticking you need new bearings (it is a hub assembly) and they cost 150 each for a good set. So be ready to negotiate the price down if they are shot!
I learned some of that the hard way!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 20
From: West Virginia
I don't need the vin. But you might, it should help you to be able to identify the spring codes if the tag is not on them. After install you can purchse different springs from a couple of places for a softer/stiffer ride and lowering springs are also available. As well as air bags.
Correct, from passenger to driver side. Once unbolted you do not know the factory location.
Depending on what all you are doing, you may want to grab the aluminum shaft out of the car. I cut mine off, and had it tig'd back together with new u joints all for under a hundred bucks.
Correct, from passenger to driver side. Once unbolted you do not know the factory location.
Depending on what all you are doing, you may want to grab the aluminum shaft out of the car. I cut mine off, and had it tig'd back together with new u joints all for under a hundred bucks.
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pfcjs
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Mar 17, 2012 12:33 AM
