Just got truck (2008 6.4L, 100,000 miles) out of shop for DPF problems. Was told it is just my driving habits and to be sure to change oil more frequently. I don't drive the truck much at all, maybe on average about 10 miles a week as I have a company vehicle I drive to work. In the summer it does pull my trailer (30' 5th wheel) whenever I can get away, which hasn't been much lately. It was going into regen about every 20 miles. I do get it on the highway and drive it till it finishes,(actually put more miles on it to clean then I do driving it where I need to go) so that is why I brought it in. They changed the oil, told me it was about 3 quarts too high and gave it a new flash that they said would probably help. drove it home, had to go to store next morning, but "drive to clean" came on as soon as I left driveway, so headed to highway before store. On the way to high way, a wrench symbol started flashing( this is new, figured was new flash). got on highway and it went into regen shortly after. no more wrench symbol and finished regen... actually got 90 miles(25 of which were driving back home from cleaning) before the drive to clean came on tonight. didnt have time to get on highway and wasnt going too far. about 3 miles after drive to clean came on, wrench apeared again right as i was about to park at my destination. Parked truck, took care of my business, about 3 hours later got back in to head home. still had warning messages, so started heading for highway, before I could get there it went into limp mode, so just had to limp home. I'd rather get on highway every 10 miles then take it to shop every 90. I don't know what to do next, besides obviously take it to shop on monday when its open. not sure I want to do the dpf delete as I don't want to have to put it back on evey time i need to get emmisions. I love my truck when pulling the trailer and just got a second car to drive around town. However I would like to be able to drive truck around town sometimes as well, especially in snowy weather. My other car is a mustang gt, not the best winter car....any suggestions on what is going on with truck and what I should do? also is it safe to drive it to dealer in limp mode? About 10 miles away. keep in mind I already put 5 miles or so on limp mode getting home tonight.

 

Sensors are probably bad. Time to move toward DPF delete.

Have you pulled codes yet?

Be careful the heat created from that many regen will hurt your motor.

You can do DPF delete for around $1200 (that's with the DPF delete pipe)
PM me if you are interested. I don't sale anything but I will forward you info who does and stuff.

 

you can take it back to the shop but in the end with you short driving distance it needs to be tuned. Otherwise it will be like it is, don't get me wrong it should be better than it is but it will always be a hassle to say the least.

 

If I do the delete, is it something I have to put back together to get emissions?
The dealer said it was giving no codes.

 

After finding and reading a lot of threads on here about the dpf delete, I agree that this is probably my best option. Just hope I have not already done any damage to motor by going into regen so much. My question now is since truck is in limp mode now, do I have to take it to dealer to have that cleared before I put on the dpf delete kit? I believe I will have to go back to stock for emissions so my concern is will it just go right back to limp mode when returned to stock? also any advice on the best kit to get would be appreciated.

 

Well, your out of warranty correct. It would be nice if you could get the cleaning cycle fixed, could just be a simple sensor, who knows without a little troubleshooting. And yes you will have the problem when you go back to stock to pass emissions. What do you have to do for emissions??
Anyways the most economical that I know of is this. I don't have it so I can't vouch for it but guys on the sight use it without issue.

(GBZ-FKKTPAFE) GBZ - Tachyon Plus Tuner for Ford 6.4L With aFe DPF Delete Race Exhaust

 

It is out of warranty so no concerns there. for emission test I have to take it to a state certified shop and they test it, not sure what the test entails though, but results are sent to dmv and need a passing emissions in order to register/renew plates. I will check out the link you suggest, and thanks for your help. I guess I should take it to dealer to try and get limp mode sorted in the mean time.

 

I would really consider going to a different shop/dealer...if your getting different symbols and you know the truck isn't right.. yet there still not wanting to help! when I bought my truck 8 months ago.. I didn't know what deleting was.. I just got the truck I was happy.. but the more I found out..if you keep the emissions on.. doing just short trips here and there.. or always light driving.. it's going to be on-going problem...those engines are built to work hard.. and keep going.. just a couple thoughts.. I had my truck deleted....haven't looked back.. 8 months later one of the best trucks I've ever driven!

 

My truck seems to run better and use less fuel around town and on short trips more than on long trips.
I think its because Im going slower?

 

that's because yours is a 450 with a tall gear

 

You can try blowing out some ash from the DPF if you have it off for any reason. That should lengthen the time between regens if the DPF being full is the problem. The DPF is supposed to last 125K miles before cleaning is needed.

 

OK, just got back from dealer. now that it is in limp mode(and my guess because it is out of warranty), it is giving codes. Apparently -0128- thermostat is stuck open, P2463, P246C DPF clogged, P042F EGR valve stuck closed......They want $800 for PPT(what is PPT) & replace Stuck egr valve & Housing, $425 to replace T-stat, $330 for Iron cleaner flush cooling system, and $119 to attempt a manual regen...If manual regen doesnt work, they want $2200 to replace DPF...... I told them to do nothing and I took truck back home. It makes sense to me now because the truck just wasn't getting hot enough to do a proper regen...I am no mechanic by a long shot, but I have friends willing to help, is all this stuff something that I could do myself for I'm guessing 1/4 of what the dealer wants? I am still planning to do the delete, but I will have to go stock for emissions or if I ever want to sell....Is it something I could do delete first and buy parts slowly before I need emissions in a year and a half? Thanks for any and all help guys....EPA sucks!!!

 

Yep, Start looking for a DPF in Craigs list or EBAY, thermostats are easy<>more or less. Get a tuner that deletes EGR and DPF. Start looking for a takeoff egr valve same place AS THE DPF, and if you have to go back stock in a year and a half you should be ready. One big reason your having an issue with the DPF is a stuck closed EGR.
The cooling system flush will be the biggest hassle as far as I'm concerned. Getting rid of all the flushing stuff and old antifreeze will be a pain.
You probably won't want to sell after your done deleting. :}

 

It's amazing what the dealer does once the warranty is up. :-(

Regens won't start until coolant is >160F. If the thermostat is stuck open, I'd think the truck will have problems getting up to temperature. However you said regens completed ok, so I'm not sure a manual regen would do anything.

I'd think a stuck closed EGR is a blessing. One that is stuck open can result in more soot and lack of power. Supposedly, you can try pulling out the EGR valve and clean it. Not sure if anyone has done it here, but I hear it's a pain even with a puller.

It's possible the DPF pressure sensor is marginal or the tube that is hooked up to it is leaking. That should be a quick one to check.

The only other potential cause would be a stuck injector.

I'd try dropping the DPF and blow out as much crap as you can with a shop compressor preferably after a regen (less soot to keep things stuck together). That'll buy you some time if it's actually bad. I got a half of a small sandwich baggie of black ash out from mine at 30K miles. Miles between completed regens increased by 50-75 miles right away.

[post-edit] Don't drive around in limp mode. When the DPF is fuller than the point where it needs to regen and can't start a regen, it goes into limp mode. It will eventually plug up completely to the point a regen cannot possibily work and leave you stranded waiting for a new DPF

 

I was just re-reading what they quoted you, crazy numbers, 425 to replace thermostat's.
Two big issues I see on your list of codes is stuck open stat and stuck closed EGR, they go hand in hand during a regen.