The minor aspects of the project are beginning. I just received my steering column parts from LMC. I found the NPD catalog very difficult to read, with columns from '48--78 lumped together, and no diagram to show what you are getting. I had to hurry and order from LMC b/c their new catalog doesn't have column parts for a 75 2wd.

I got upper and lower bearings, lower race, rag joint kit, lower flange, and some other parts I thought might be needed. The total with shipping was around $100.

While I'm waiting for the project to kick into full swing with the arrival of the RedHead box, I'll do the column and tie rods in the front end. *Note: I thought the prices for Moog linkage was high on Rock Auto until I saw the cost at NPD. I want Moog because I thought it the best. I noticed with LMC and AZ linkage, they last about 3 years and need replacing. Hopefully the Moog stuff will last longer. I expect to pay about $140 for the linkage, with postage.

Total cost, with the RedHead box and shipping both ways, will be about $600. And every time I get on the freeway I'll smile about the difference, I hope!

 

Since the column is in the truck and it is a daily driver, I pulled one from the j/y. I had some problems identifying the year of this column I pulled, but am now fairly sure it's a 73. The truck I pulled it from had a 72 registration tag on the door, but the body was a dent, so? Unbelievable as it is, on a column from seventy something, the horn switch was cherry!

Once I had it I jumped right in and pulled it apart. Wires were spliced and taped both in the column at the switch, and at the bottom too. Ouch. It was easier to understand than I thought it would be. Yep, first column.

Both top and bottom bearing were tight. The bottom however, seemed dry and a bit crunchy. The wedge like 'shim' that sits between bearing and shaft was coated with what seemed like white glue. I imagine it was dry grease? I cleaned everything in solvent.

The coupler I bought was wrong, Dorman 31004, iirc. That is all they have for 72 to 79 at O'reilly's and AZ. My bolts were too close together to enter the holes. So I have sent to LMC for another one.

Below is a shot of the wedge/bushing that tightens the bearing to the shaft on the lower end. I thought I would reuse it since it is tight. I found a replacement on Dennis Carpenter, but couldn't bring myself to fork over $12, although I still may. On the shaft you can see a collar that doesn't look oem. All the ones I've seen were about an inch wide and had a bolt running through them. But this one rides perfectly up against the bottom of the bearing, so I'll leave it as is too.



I did buy the replacement for the bearing carriage you see below. But this one is in good shape and I don't want to cut spot welds to replace something that works, so I'll send the part back to LMC.



I did use a replacement for the part the auto. gear shift sits in. I've had a new one sitting around for about 7 years, so decided to use it. Once all the parts were dry I sprayed the outer tube and all the parts that show a gloss black. Now I'm waiting for the other parts to arrive.

Tomorrow I will send the core to Redhead.

 

Looks good! My 73 has the bolt and clamp style of retainer, somebody must've worked on your before. Unless that one is an older style? Not sure.

Redhead won't disappoint, I had them rebuild mine last summer and the difference is amazing! The turnaround time for the rebuild was amazing too, I dropped it off late afternoon and it was ready next morning!

I chickened out on rebuilding the column though, maybe this will give me some motivation.


Sam

 

Hello, Sam--

I chickened out for years. I had never done one so the column seemed a forbidden aspect of the truck. Now that I have taken it apart I'm amazed how simple it was. I'm sure you'll feel the same way. I know putting it back together in a working fashion will be a bit more complicated, but I'll let you know how difficult it is.

I'm hoping I don't have too difficult time finding the correct rag joint/steering coupler. Hopefully the LMC one that is coming will fit. Otherwise I may have to exchange the shaft in the column I'm working on for the shaft in the truck now. It is so nice to have that option. And that's another reason to have a j/y extra.

 

Hi Kevin, that's strange that the 31004 didn't work, maybe it was mis-packaged?

Sam

 

Sam: Yes, it was mispackaged. My next order from LMC came and it was the exact same package, same part # too, but with a different coupler in the package. Works great.

Postmortem to this thread: I have done this resto with the steering in 4 phases, the kingpins and bushings, the steering column, the steering box, and the linkages. With the replacement of each I could feel an improvement, the largest 'step' being the new REDHEAD box. With 3/4ths of the project done I paused and debated whether to do the final the step, the linkages. If I imagine my steering wheel a clock, after the three steps I only had free play from two or three minutes before the hour to two or three minutes after. It was a joy to drive, but just a bit hairy on the freeway in traffic.

Today all new Moog linkages arrived. I look forward to doing the final phase with the proper linkages. In the past I had used AutoZ quality ones, for a truck with less gvw. Not I have top notch stuff for the correct 7500 gvw truck. I'm looking forward to cruising the freeway with one arm on the back of the seat, flying along at 70 mph, and not even concerned about steering. In the past it always 'two hands on the wheel' and on slight turns it was scary. I will post what I find. k

 

I'm glad to hear you got it figured out! The steering on mine doesn't have any slop, but is a bit vague. It might a characteristic of the manual boxes though, if memory serves it's about 5 turns lock to lock!

Sam

 

I'm a bit sad to say that the steering is slightly challenging. I am doing 'bump' steering still, but with far less free play. I shall have to look into alignment after the wallet replenishes.

Back when i did the engine swap I noticed cracks around the steering box and had it welded up. However, with the truck running I reached down and rotated the coupler with my hand, back and forth. When I do the box pivots. Ouch.

What I've learned is this. The cross member beneath the engine attaches to the frame not far from the steering box. It attaches with factory rivets. The rivets are loose with wear and age. A member in another thread said this should not affect the steering of the truck. Well, actually it does. My frame flexes at the box. It is the cross member that gives strength and rigidity to the frame and keeps the box, the frame, from flexing. My solution was to cut off the rivets with a grinder, on both sides of frame, and drilled out the holes and installed grade eight bolts with lock nuts. That work meant less flex, less free play at the wheel, which meant less worry and stress while on the freeway. Doing that was one step in the restoration of the steering that I never took into account.

 

F-250 restorer - l am restoring a similar column...see pic below. For the lower bearing does it just sit in the bottom part of the shaft? What keeps it from falling out?

 

I wish I could help, but it's been so long that I did my column rebuild that I can't remember how the bearing was held in. I would ck my posts about it. I did quite a few.

I do remember having a time finding mention or diagram of that type of column. Edit: Ha, now I got it. I had to look at the photos. Look at the column shaft. There is a collar on it that rides on the bearing and holds it in place. Once the shaft is clipped/locked in place from the wheel end, it is done. I believe there is also a plastic dust collar at the bearing end you are concerned with. Clean the shaft real well and use the best grease you can get to lube the bearing and the shaft right there where it rides.
Good luck.

 

thanks ! I am 87.4% sure I got it. Will try this weekend and report back with pictures. Really appreciate the help!