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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 05:16 PM
  #1  
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ScumbagSteve
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Smile General Truck Info?

Until I got this truck, I've only been driving small import cars and I don't really know much about Fords. (My mom did have an Expedition but that was a POS mistake)

I know it's a 94 F150 2WD XLT Extended Cab Long Bed with the 5.0L.

Yes, I did read the sticky Info post.

I'm just looking for some basic information about them such as:

What model transmission do I have

What do you guys mean by gearing and High/Low gears. What gears do I have, or how do I find out?

Common simple mods and tips that you all do.

Normal problems that these trucks have. (One of the fuel tanks doesn't work)

And any other information that I should know.

I plan on keeping it for a long time so I just need some help to start and maintain this project.

Thanks.

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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #2  
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Ddaybc
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From: Vernon, BC
Smile

Check out your door post. It will give you the transmission, rear end information etc. You can cross reference the data here. For example, my Axle code is H9 on my truck. That cross referenced to a Limited Slip rear end with 3.55 gears. My transmission code is an E and that cross referenced to the E4OD automatic.
It's a place to start.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #3  
Bright Regatte Blue's Avatar
Bright Regatte Blue
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From: The Golden State
Originally Posted by ScumbagSteve
What do you guys mean by gearing and High/Low gears.
Gearing is, well, related to gears. It's most commonly used to refer to differentials.

High and low gears are easier for me to understand than explain, but I'll give it a try. Low gears are numerically high; for example, 4.10:1 is lower than 3.55:1. All else being equal, the 4.10:1 gears will give better pulling power, and worse fuel economy, than the 3.55:1s.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:30 PM
  #4  
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can you guys post a link to the page that helps decode vin numbers?
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 02:17 AM
  #5  
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Trombogon
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From: Kansas City, MO
VIN Decoder - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/vin-decoder/

Also if your trans is an automatic with shift pattern P-R-N-OD-D-1 it's an AOD.

If it reads P-R-N-OD-2-1 with a button on the end of the shifter, it's an E4OD.

If it's a manual it's a POS mazda 5.

One of the fuel tanks not working is normal, the other one is just for show.

We could probably help you out more if you told us how many miles it had, what kind of work has been done to it, etc.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 12:52 PM
  #6  
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Redneckfordf2502002
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Originally Posted by ScumbagSteve
Until I got this truck, I've only been driving small import cars and I don't really know much about Fords. (My mom did have an Expedition but that was a POS mistake)

I know it's a 94 F150 2WD XLT Extended Cab Long Bed with the 5.0L.

Yes, I did read the sticky Info post.

I'm just looking for some basic information about them such as:

What model transmission do I have

What do you guys mean by gearing and High/Low gears. What gears do I have, or how do I find out?

Common simple mods and tips that you all do.

Normal problems that these trucks have. (One of the fuel tanks doesn't work)

And any other information that I should know.

I plan on keeping it for a long time so I just need some help to start and maintain this project.

Thanks.

******** charset="UTF-8" src="chrome://hdv/content/hdv.js" type="application/javascript">*********>******** charset="UTF-8" src="chrome://hdv/content/hdv.js" type="application/javascript">*********>
Bump up your timing a bit that will help performance, fuel mileage (a bit) and more.
Watch your TFI/control module these fail quite often on these trucks.
For dual tank problems we need to know a bit more of what you mean by it doesn't work (does it chug like on the fuel tank, no fuel at all on fuel tank it could be very simple just need a better description).
Trav
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 01:33 AM
  #7  
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Ok so it is an E4OD because the is a button on it.
As for the tank not working, It acts as if it has no fuel.
VIN says 3.08 axle.
Also I've been hearing things about 2g/3g alternators. What is this about? Mine is a 75 amp.

I should have said that it has 225K on the clock. I got the truck about 2 months ago after it had been sitting in storage for over 8 years. It was my uncles truck but he left it in storage when he was deployed to Afghanistan. He took care of the mechanical parts because it seems to run strong. No check engine light, squeaks of any sort. Though there is a slight ATF leak. The major problem for this truck is that the exterior is pretty bad.
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Last edited by ScumbagSteve; Feb 1, 2014 at 01:35 AM. Reason: missing info.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 07:48 AM
  #8  
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Bad Bad Leroy Brown
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Should be a nice truck if it was taken care of, that ATF leak is likely just a trans pan gasket. Its probably due for pan drop anyhow to change the fluid so you can kill two birds with one stone.

Really after sitting 8 years all fluids, coolant, diff, trans, power steering, engine should all be changed.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 10:28 AM
  #9  
Bright Regatte Blue's Avatar
Bright Regatte Blue
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From: The Golden State
Originally Posted by Trombogon
If it's a manual it's a POS mazda 5.

One of the fuel tanks not working is normal, the other one is just for show.
Both of my F-150s have had the M5OD, and I've had good luck with them--I'd hardly call it a POS.

As for one of the fuel tanks not working, the front tank in my '91 never worked (bad pump), but both tanks in the '93 work well. It is normal to find a dual-tank truck with one non-working tank, and it can be a pain to get the dead one back in working order. Assuming the gas in the dead tank is still okay, I'd pick up a siphon pump and use the non-working tank as a big gas can until it can be fixed.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 10:46 PM
  #10  
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brake4beaver
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From: Cle elum, Wa
Also I've been hearing things about 2g/3g alternators. What is this about? Mine is a 75 amp.
Sounds like a 2G, as 3G's were 95-130 amp. An easy way to tell the difference is if it has an external cooling fan it's a 2G. The 2G was a very poor design, and is known to catch on fire. The 3G fixed all of the problems the 2G had, and is much more powerful. Fortunately it's pretty easy to swap a 3G into a 2G equipped truck, and is a very worthwhile conversion. There's lots of info on here about how to do it, just do a search.

Here is an example of a 2G fire, even though it had the upgraded connector.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 11:00 AM
  #11  
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Redneckfordf2502002
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From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
Originally Posted by ScumbagSteve
Ok so it is an E4OD because the is a button on it.
As for the tank not working, It acts as if it has no fuel.
VIN says 3.08 axle.
Also I've been hearing things about 2g/3g alternators. What is this about? Mine is a 75 amp.

I should have said that it has 225K on the clock. I got the truck about 2 months ago after it had been sitting in storage for over 8 years. It was my uncles truck but he left it in storage when he was deployed to Afghanistan. He took care of the mechanical parts because it seems to run strong. No check engine light, squeaks of any sort. Though there is a slight ATF leak. The major problem for this truck is that the exterior is pretty bad.
******** charset="UTF-8" src="chrome://hdv/content/hdv.js" type="application/javascript">*********>******** charset="UTF-8" src="chrome://hdv/content/hdv.js" type="application/javascript">*********>

First off for the fuel probably a bad fuel pump. Drop the tank and I believe autozone should be able to check it.
3G swap is a popular upgrade to do for a less fire prone alternator that also upgrades the amps of the alternator at the same time.
I agree with Leroy that all fluids wouldn't hurt to be changed.
Try and see where there is excess ATF fluid and we might be able to find out the problem.
Trav
 
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