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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 03:32 PM
  #16  
mrrish79's Avatar
mrrish79
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The cover says "EEC TEST"
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #17  
White 97 xlt's Avatar
White 97 xlt
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Here is a VERY good write up on checking for DTC codes.. Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mrrish79
Buy a code reader they are less than $20 bucks shipped to your door in a day or two. OBDI will store soft codes and could help. I wouldn't suggest paying money on sensors or a tune up until you diagnose the system.
Its a 93. A $20 code reader is not going to say it needs a tuneup, IF the o2's are working its not going to flag with a code. The fact there working does not mean there reading correct. a 93 OBDI will NOT test the o2's like a newer system will do. Unless he has a check engine light on the code reader is not going to tell much.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 08:39 PM
  #19  
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There are codes that won't throw the CEL. I work in the automotive field and I see this all the time. Dumping the codes on an electronically controlled engine should ALWAYS be the first thing you should do whether or not you have a CEL currently on.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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Or we should ask ohiofordfarm for some $$$ he clearly has extra to just start replacing things and throwing money without using logic.

My father in law has been a mechanic for over 30 years and the FIRST thing he does is check for codes not just doing $100 tune ups and $20 each o2 sensors. Just saying the $20 code reader is that cheap BECAUSE its a 93.... NOT because its not effective
 
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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 88LX5.0H
There are codes that won't throw the CEL. I work in the automotive field and I see this all the time. Dumping the codes on an electronically controlled engine should ALWAYS be the first thing you should do whether or not you have a CEL currently on.
True. My CEL goes out almost immediately after start-up, but running a wire from the self-test input revealed a few codes.

Evan, does your truck have a manual or automatic trans? And what axle code appears on your door tag?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 09:02 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bright Regatte Blue
True. My CEL goes out almost immediately after start-up, but running a wire from the self-test input revealed a few codes.

Evan, does your truck have a manual or automatic trans? And what axle code appears on your door tag?
My transmission is automatic. As for the rear end. I know that the gears were replaced. I want to say a 3.73 but I could be thinking of something else.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 09:04 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by spacegrass
Alright Evan, please do this.

Find this:

Pop the hood, its right in front of the drivers seat. On the inside of the fender, right near the brake fluid reservoir. They might be hiding under a cover that says DIAGNOSTIC PORT.

Connect it this way:

Just use a piece of scrap wire or even a paper clip.

Grab a piece of paper, or what I like to do is put my phone into video camera mode and film it. Hop in the drivers seat, turn the key to run but don't start your truck. Watch the check engine light, it will start flashing. Record all of this, your codes will be 3 digits in length. (ie: flash flash flash PAUSE flash flash PAUSE flash LONGER PAUSE, code 321)

Then come back here with the results and we'll have you fixed in no time. If you need more help just ask me.
Thank you. The pictures are always a great help. I'm off of work today so I will definatley give that a try and let everyone know what I get.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by spacegrass
Help us help you, because every time I get an email that this thread got a reply I want to throw my phone into a river

And you have it backwards, bigger tires mean the truck is going further then the mileage states.
It's good to know that I have the support that I need from everyone here to get my truck back in good working order. I will try to reply back as quickly as I can so that we can keep the ball rolling. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 01:41 PM
  #25  
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If you're still having trouble I'll upload an instructional video haha. I gotta figure out my code anyway, my 1992's EGR has decided to change it's employment status from full to part time.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 06:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Landoll_Evan
My transmission is automatic. As for the rear end. I know that the gears were replaced. I want to say a 3.73 but I could be thinking of something else.
Is your trans a 3-speed or 4-speed? As for the gear ratio, it used to be said that you could do something like this: jack up the rear, tape a piece of string to the driveshaft, give the tire a complete revolution, and count the number of times the string wrapped around the driveshaft. However, much like the old "limited-slip test," I wouldn't rely on it completely.

I can't believe that this only just occurred to me: is your 8 MPG average based on mostly city driving, mostly highway driving, or a pretty even split?
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 12:13 PM
  #27  
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Is the STI Connector the single/gray connector with the yel/bk wire
Also, the link to the EEC check (in Read me First) is broken - for me..

Originally Posted by spacegrass
Alright Evan, please do this.

Find this:

Pop the hood, its right in front of the drivers seat. On the inside of the fender, right near the brake fluid reservoir. They might be hiding under a cover that says DIAGNOSTIC PORT.

Connect it this way:

Just use a piece of scrap wire or even a paper clip.

Grab a piece of paper, or what I like to do is put my phone into video camera mode and film it. Hop in the drivers seat, turn the key to run but don't start your truck. Watch the check engine light, it will start flashing. Record all of this, your codes will be 3 digits in length. (ie: flash flash flash PAUSE flash flash PAUSE flash LONGER PAUSE, code 321)

Then come back here with the results and we'll have you fixed in no time. If you need more help just ask me.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 12:54 PM
  #28  
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From: Rohnert Park Ca.
Originally Posted by ZMax
Is the STI Connector the single/gray connector with the yel/bk wire
Also, the link to the EEC check (in Read me First) is broken - for me..
Yes its the single connector with yel/blk wire's
 
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Old May 1, 2015 | 04:19 PM
  #29  
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Holmesuser01
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I'd still suspect a faulty thermostat if the temp gauge drops when you take off.

Do the easy stuff first.

My T'stat was OEM. Replacing it brought the gauge up to normal ranges, and also cause the ECC to come to life and start working properly.
 
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