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Be careful not to break the clip on the wiring harness. Also, when you plug it back into the new one, don't force it. It should go in smoothly and click into place. I've seen the weather seal all folded up and creased- basically ruined- due to someone forcing it.
I use a shallow well 10mm socket on a shorty 1/4" drive ratchet. It might be a little tough (knuckle buster) to break loose, but should come out easy after that. You'll just be uncomfortable and probably cramping, so take your time.
You should be able to wiggle it out fairly easy once the bolt is out, but a flat screwdriver can provide persuasion.
Don't forget to put a film of oil on the new CPS O-ring before install. It will help you seat it and create a better seal.
ok I replaced the sensor with a the new grey " b" there was already a grey one in there but it had a different sensor head then the new one . I also replace the harness end. im still having the same problem. the engine flashes on and if stumbles or cuts out or whatever then engine light goes away and seems to be running normal again. the two codes im getting are P1316 and P0344 . I have an abs sensor that needs to be replaced to but that should have nothing to do with it so anyone know whats going on? maybe a bad sensor again but why the p1316?
The P0344 is for the CPS. The 1316 is an IDM fault I believe. Do you have access to a device that can do an injector buzz test? Something like AutoEnginuity?
You’ve probably got circuit issue and not a sensor issue. I’ll assume you don’t have access to a Lab Scope or AE. So, you'll be using a DVOM. We need to confirm the REFV. With the Engine Warm (all are Key On Engine Off AFTER youremove the CMP Plug from the sensor) *** While you’re performing the tests, wiggle the harness.
Check the CMP Return Circuit) Pin-A to Chassis Ground. Isthe resistance < 5Ω or >5Ω?
Then check the resistance between Pin-B and chassis ground.Is it 5v = or – 0.5v?
Then check Pin-C to chassis ground, do you get 12v?
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