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Injector O Ring question

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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 06:45 PM
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Injector O Ring question

Since I bought my truck I've been planning on replacing the injector O rings. During the summer it would always puff some blue smoke at startup, and as it gets colder it's harder to start and blows more blue when it starts. Also seem like it looses oil pressure overnight, it takes some cranking before the injectors start firing.

Anyway, I read that when you have bad o rings, there will be oil in the filter bowl. Pulled that out today, and it was clean, nothing but diesel in there. Does this mean my o rings aren't in bad shape? Or can they be bad without leaking oil into the fuel?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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From: Sayreville, NJ
glow plug relay and glow plugs are the most common culprit here
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 07:16 PM
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I have a full set of glow plugs I bought with my O rings. I'm more worried about the blue smoke, and why it seems to be losing HPO over night.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:07 PM
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A fuel filter with a black tint or discoloration has been known to be a sign of bad injector O-rings as return fuel passing thru the bowl on its way back to the tank will have some oil mixed in. There wouldn't necessarily be oil physically in the bowl.

I could be wrong, but it just sounds like tired injectors to me overall. I'm not quite as wise as most on here about these types of problems however...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:28 PM
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[IMG]evoul[/IMG]
That's what mine looked like with bad o rings. The HP oil pressure is greater than fuel pressure, so the oil pushes by the o rings and gets into the fuel system. If you think your bleeding off pressure overnight, the next step would be to get a pressure reading somehow. I do not have any experience with that, but there are a bunch of reasons for not building pressure. Don't freak out thinking it's something big yet. Someone will chime in soon with more help. Do you have AE or something you can read your ICP and IPR with? Also, if your going to do your glow plugs, DO NOT use Autolites. You will regret it. Here's why, below. Good luck!
[IMG][/IMG]
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mowing Man
That's what mine looked like with bad o rings. The HP oil pressure is greater than fuel pressure, so the oil pushes by the o rings and gets into the fuel system. If you think your bleeding off pressure overnight, the next step would be to get a pressure reading somehow. I do not have any experience with that, but there are a bunch of reasons for not building pressure. Don't freak out thinking it's something big yet. Someone will chime in soon with more help. Do you have AE or something you can read your ICP and IPR with? Also, if your going to do your glow plugs, DO NOT use Autolites. You will regret it. Here's why, below. Good luck!
Yep, that's what my fuel filter looks like, so I guess there is some oil in there. I was mistaken in thinking when I pulled the filter the diesel in the bowl would be black with oil.

My CTS reads ICP and IPR, but I'll be honest, I'll have to do some research to figure out what is a good reading vs what is a bad reading.

And I made sure to order the Motorcraft glow plugs, though one of the reasons I haven't changed them out yet is I'm terrified that the ones in it could be Autolites that aren't going to agree with me when I go to pull them out.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:47 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by t.scottNDU
A fuel filter with a black tint or discoloration has been known to be a sign of bad injector O-rings as return fuel passing thru the bowl on its way back to the tank will have some oil mixed in. There wouldn't necessarily be oil physically in the bowl.
That's only a symptom of OBS powerstrokes that have a regulated return from the factory. Our fuel system is deadhead in the cylinder heads, unless it has been modified with a regulated return, FRx, or some other mod to relieve the deadhead fuel rails the black in the filter is not from engine oil leaking past injector o-rings.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:53 PM
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Clux, my truck that I showed the pic of is an 01. No aftermarket fuel lines, just bone stock except for my 6637, and GP led. Where would the oil residue in my filter have come from? There's not any other place in the engine where the 2 meet other than the injectors, right? Not arguing with you, just pursuing a higher 7.3 education...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:57 PM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by Mowing Man
Clux, my truck that I showed the pic of is an 01. No aftermarket fuel lines, just bone stock except for my 6637, and GP led. Where would the oil residue in my filter have come from? There's not any other place in the engine where the 2 meet other than the injectors, right? Not arguing with you, just pursuing a higher 7.3 education...
My used fuel filters are always black.
Our stock fuel system is totally dead-head, with one way restrictors where the fuel line goes into the head. Once in the head, there is no path back to the fuel system.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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Icp and Duty cycle first. If those numbers are off, pressure test the heads.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by clux
My used fuel filters are always black.
Our stock fuel system is totally dead-head, with one way restrictors where the fuel line goes into the head. Once in the head, there is no path back to the fuel system.
This is the first I've heard of the restrictors in the fuel lines. I assumed the oil mixed in the head and then made it's way to the bowl when the engine was off or something.

Originally Posted by HD Rider
Icp and Duty cycle first. If those numbers are off, pressure test the heads.
I'll have to pull the tune off my truck tomorrow and get some numbers. I monitor ICP all the time, and haven't noticed anything that concerned me. Around 450 at idle up to right around 3000 at WOT. I don't watch IPR much so I'll check it tomorrow and report back.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by goldswim5
This is the first I've heard of the restrictors in the fuel lines. I assumed the oil mixed in the head and then made it's way to the bowl when the engine was off or something.
Check valve with the fuel line removed, front of the left head.



Simple diagram of the stock fuel system.


 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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From: Gary,Indiana
Originally Posted by goldswim5
This is the first I've heard of the restrictors in the fuel lines. I assumed the oil mixed in the head and then made it's way to the bowl when the engine was off or something.



I'll have to pull the tune off my truck tomorrow and get some numbers. I monitor ICP all the time, and haven't noticed anything that concerned me. Around 450 at idle up to right around 3000 at WOT. I don't watch IPR much so I'll check it tomorrow and report back.
I too agree that when the engine is turned off it back washes to the bowl or something. But I too have seen a filter like Jeb showed on a friends truck dead on the side of the road a 100 miles from home. The reason it quit running was because there was about 3 gallons of oil missing from the crank case. It was weak injectors too start with and some blown out orings.

So is your truck using oil? How many miles does it take you to use or burn 2qts. of oil?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BadDogKuzz
So is your truck using oil? How many miles does it take you to use or burn 2qts. of oil?
It doesn't use excessively by any means, I've got about 3k miles on Rotella T6, and I don't think it's used any more than a quart so far. It drips a bit from the EBPV, and then the blue smoke at startup.

Just got back from a drive to get my ICP and IPR numbers.

Cold idle (50*EOT): ICP around 700, IPR 17-18%
Warm idle(180*EOT): ICP 450-500, IPR 11-12%
WOT: ICP 2400 max, IPR 38% max.

From my limited understanding of those numbers, IPR seems to be fine, and ICP doesn't seem to have any issues either, unless it's a bit low at WOT for the truck having a tune? Truck runs beautifully by the way, with plenty of power, so I have a hard time thinking the injectors are going south.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2014 | 03:53 PM
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Ok, my limited knowledge would make me think your ICP and IPR seem good. My flatbed with 230k on it was having trouble starting early this winter. I did GP's, injector o rings, and a GPR. Also, I later discovered my batts were weak. They tested ok, but the voltage dropped too low when GP's were on. Id test your GPR first. Then onto the GP's. If your afraid they're autolites and they're swollen, there's a way to ohm them out. At least you'd know if they're good. If they're all working, you can wait til you have a good time to deal with the possibility of autolites. Gp's will make a huge difference. In my case, my injector o rings helped a lot too. I'd do gp's and I rings at the same time. It's a lot easier to put your gp's in before your injectors, as long as you know your cylinders are completely empty of fluid.
 
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