Sorry iggy had me distracted with some nun thing.... you can easily make or buy "distributor wrench".

Take a old 1/2 or 9/16 (what ever it is) and heat it and make a 85 degree bend 3" back from the end.

Then I weld a piece of small bar stock with a 90 on the other end for a handle and it will fit in there to loosen and tighten with the motor running.

Always better to loosen 1st, hold diz, start rig, make adjustments, hold distributor in place, shut off rig then tighten.

 

Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600, a quick timing spring kit, straight up cam timing set (not retarded), Crane Fireball cam and lifters, timing set at full mechanical advance 34-35 degrees BTC, then reconnect vac ... mine does OK and uses no oil at 105K, but I did have to slip in a new set of rod and main bearings and oil pump at 75K miles a number of years back.

Curious how that 400 is gonna do same setup?


.... don't tell my '77 351m that! She's had a Crane Fireball hydraulic cam since the late '80s and some 60K miles ago bumping her valves and so far, the OEM springs have shut the valves every time. Advertised duration @ .50 Intake/Exhaust is 204º / 214º and lift @ Valve as 484" / .510", I know Crane no longer makes it, but it's the same grind as the Edelbrock Performer cam was. It did help mid range breathing but I don't hold her at WOT at anything over about 4500 so I can't say much about above that.

 

No arguments, just observations ... but I think it's a balance problem maybe, not longer stroke. At 75,000 my 351M needed new rod and main bearings, wore into copper. I replaced laying on my back, included a oil pump just as a precaution. Talking to others, mine was not unusual .... original pistons, rings, no smoke, no oil use, about 105,000 now. I don't recall anyone I know having the issue with a 400. I already have a 400 on the stand to someday install.

Three piece distributor wrench, 1/2" one end, 9/16" other end, at center both sides use 3/8" drive square and can be assembled in several ways .... or it can be used with other 3/8" drive extensions, ratchets, breaker-bars. They are certainly cheap enough, available at most any auto parts store.

 

In 1983 I owned a 79 f 150 4x4. Came with 351m. It started using a lil oil so I rebuilt her. Had block bored .030, put 400 crank and pistons in her. Bought an erson cam, I dont remember specs but it was ground for torque. Matching valve springs and lifters. Performer intake, 650 holley. I put almost 120,000 miles on it and never had a problem, of course I try not to abuse mine anyhow. I do use them and dont mind turning em up when needed. When I sold the truck she would still give any 400 powered chevy all they wanted. And was still as reliable as brand new. My personal opinion is as with ANY motor rebuild attention to details like clearances will net you a much better and more reliable finish product. Check rod and main bearings and dont be scared to return em to exchange if you aren't satisfied. Also your machine shop is your friend. Dont rush em and when looking for a shop to do work for you, check em out in person. If the place is nasty, go somewhere else.

 

I've been dwelling on this for some time and I'm half convinced to procure a junked 400 and build that on the side while I just drive what I've got. I don't want to put lipstick on a pig, so to speak, by dumping money and good parts on an old 351 that won't put out much power.

This may sound ignorant but can the 400 crank and pistons go into the old 351 while it is on the truck or will it require machining the bearing surfaces and cylinder ridges?

 

Contact this guy to make that lipstick shine on that pig.....http://www.tmeyerinc.com/

 

You cant really put a crank in engine while it is vehicle. Well I guess you could but flywheel has to come off and whole front of motor. Plus block really needs align boring and main caps sized to make sure the wear from years of use is repaired. And seeing as how we are talking about a 351m and they havent built any in more than 20 years, yes it will most likely need cylinders bored.

 

I had a truck with a well used oil burning and leaking 351. I pulled the engine and installed a stock rebuilt 400. According to my well tuned buttometer there was no difference in power between the two engines. I had another '79 with a rebuilt 351 that had an Edelbrock Performer manifold, 600 cfm carburetor and mild cam that was a world of difference according to the ol buttometer

In stock form, I wouldn't waste the money to swap to a 400.

You asked if you could put a 400 crank and pistons in while the engine was in the truck. You could, but it would take a lot of work. You would have to pull the transmission and all the stuff from the front of the engine. Then you have to pull the intake manifold and heads. It would be way easier to pull the engine and do the work on a stand.

 

Yes they will go right in. Engine has to be out of course. Don't forget to cut out the ridge in the cylinder though if there is one. Not the best way but its done all the time on the cheap and works. Not really worth it though. It takes a cam change, non smog timing set, and higher compression pistons to bring the 351M and 400 to life. So might as well have all the correct machine work performed.

 

Unless you are spinning the motor in excess of 6,000 rpm or you're talking the longevity difference between 600,000 and 650,000 miles of living then you are out to lunch.

The long stroke is not what kills the bearings, it's the size of them when overspun, and the oiling problems that (easily corrected) plague all Cleveland based motors.

Besides all that, a stroke too long would show excessive wear on the thrust side of the cylinder wall, not affecting the bearings at all.

 

Could some of the engines problems or lack of power stem from an engine that clearly sat for long periods, or was only driven by "A Little Old Lady to Church on Sunday"?
I mean 58,000 miles in 35 years..........Just a thought?