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Hey guys, thanks for all this. Today I kinda came to the conclusion that there might well be something outta whack with the diff yoke itself. The bottoms of the cups don't seem round, true, square, plumb, flush and all those terms that apply to carpentry more so than auto mechanics. I'll look for some of the 1.188" bearings. If that doesn't do it, I think I'll start looking for a new diff yoke or maybe a whole new rear end. Ugh. Is it easy to just replace the yoke or would it be better to just do the whole rear end? Anyway, I'm outta town til Sunday so not much'll get done til the first of next week. I'll let you know. T
Hey guys, thanks for all this. Today I kinda came to the conclusion that there might well be something outta whack with the diff yoke itself. The bottoms of the cups don't seem round, true, square, plumb, flush and all those terms that apply to carpentry more so than auto mechanics. I'll look for some of the 1.188" bearings. If that doesn't do it, I think I'll start looking for a new diff yoke or maybe a whole new rear end. Ugh. Is it easy to just replace the yoke or would it be better to just do the whole rear end? Anyway, I'm outta town til Sunday so not much'll get done til the first of next week. I'll let you know. T
I would say you have the correct joint now, the larger cap is not going to help you since the one you have now has caps that "look" to be too wide to sit all the way inside the yoke. I think you need to either clearance the yoke at the ends or get a new yoke. I dont have my book in front of me now but I believe the even larger cap joint was also wider as well, I think it was listed as 68-69 mustang with the 427/428 engines. I compared sizes when I found you the PN you have now. A larger cap size is not going to sit any futher into the yoke.
Ok guys, I think I have this licked. I've been outta town for a week but now I'm back and back at it. As you said above, I tightened down the u bolts and it closed everything up. I don't see anymore daylight between the bearings and the yoke cups. See pics below. I got a new slip yoke for the back of my T5. And mocked the whole thing up loosely. The slip yoke has about 1 7/16" of travel. I'm thinking that's about good. Anybody see any glaring errors here? If not, I'm taking in the drive shaft for blasting and powder coating.
Great news on the rear joint, looks good. Up front I would want half of what you have there for spacing, I think the yoke is too far out of the trans. What rear suspension are you running? With leafs the driveshaft will move away from the trans when the suspension compresses. 4 link it wont move at all. I use ratchet straps to compress my leaf spring suspensions to check yoke spacing at ride height and unloaded. I normally set the length so that with the rear hanging down with the shocks installed that I have just enough yoke spacing to slide the driveshaft forward for removal.
I tend to agree, but I don't know how long your yoke is. The key is, the front end of the yoke needs to always be completely in the bushing in the tailhousing. The red lines are about where that is.
SON OF A...!!! Man I thought I had this nailed. Dang it. After measuring I think the yoke's 4 1/4" shaft is just barely inside the bushing, or maybe even outside it. So....
Can I get a longer slip yoke or do I hafta bail on my original drive shaft and get a new one made?