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I finally receive my PW and battery cut-off switches today after a long UPS lost package ordeal. Anyway, the cut-off witch was less than expensive. It has a red plastic removable key. It is rated appropriately for amperage, but looks a little cheezy to me. Anyone ever experienced cut-off switch failure?
I may not have been clear enough. The switch can be bought from a price range of about 20-60 dollars. I bought one for about $25. It doesn't strike me as real heavy duty, and I know what kind of amperage that could potentially flow through it. Just a little buyers remorse after trying to save a buck. I'm just wondering if anyone has ever used a cheap one.
Maybe I'm just used to the switches the military procures. They're usually real HD, and you can turn stuff on/off with the heel of your boot. Unless of course it's for something important, then we go with lowest bidder.
Fenders,
I have one of those red-key/cheapo switches on my lawn mower. It takes a beating and I have never had any problems with it. It realize you are used to the $900 military look-alikes. I agree it doesn't look too sturdy but it has worked fine. I have the switch with the big metal handle that is not removable. It seems more substantial. It is one the best items added to my 56. It went in my panel right after the electrical fire under the hood and dash. Funny, during the fire was the first time I had ever heard my horn work. I HIGHLY recommend using a battery shut-off switch. It can also be used as a theft deterent. They have to find it to be able to start your truck.
"I HIGHLY recommend using a battery shut-off switch. It can also be used as a theft deterent. They have to find it to be able to start your truck."
Thanks for the input Greg. I also agree on the theft deterrence. I have switches for my neutral safety circuit too. Works pretty good so far. I know where everything is located, and it still usually takes me at least 3 minutes to figure out if my battery is dead, or I just forgot how to start my truck again.
The two switches I used all those years were not that expensive. I think they ran in the $35-$40 range. I think you will be okay with the inexpensive switch...
Originally posted by truckfarmer Try a switch between the fuse box and the coil. Engine will crank but not fire. Again, you have to remember to turn it on to start the truck.
That's effectively what I've done. The NS circuit provides ground for a relay in the Haywire fuse panel, which drives the hot side of the coil. No way to make it very hard to steal. Anyone with a clue could run a couple hot leads and have it running in a few minutes. Just want to keep the average 16 year old kid honest. I've accomplished that.