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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:05 PM
  #16  
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That noise would suggest it was on its way out before anyway......it may have been binding, or loose and a hard impact could have caused it to seize up, which would have caused the fuse to blow
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:19 PM
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Im anxious to hear what you find out for my own personal reasons......of my three old Fords, one has a noisy heater fan, one has a bypassed heater core....so soon im probably gonna need to do much of what your gonna do!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 01:40 AM
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Since when do you to pull the dash out to get to the heater box out on a a/c or none a/c truck?
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 02:07 AM
  #19  
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Ya i thought it was going out. Im gonna tackle it tomorrow. Keep you posted.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Since when do you to pull the dash out to get to the heater box out on a a/c or none a/c truck?
Probly dont need to but i am just cause i bought the truck a few months back and so far everyrhing is a mess. The wiring is all screwed up. So im gonna do some wiring and im gonna pull a whole new motor and vents and make sure its all done right.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 09:12 AM
  #21  
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Wow that wiring must be a real mess, its a wonder it even starts and runs.

With the instrument cluster and the glove box out you can get in there to replace the complete wiring harness.

But just get on with your bad self and take us slackers some pics, I want to see this messed up wiring that requires a dash pull. lol

Pull the dash 1st, then the heater box.

Insert sarcasm/humor in case you missed it. You know lol....

The pics are of a none a/c truck and it really only has one big wire bundle.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:25 PM
  #22  
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Hey guys. Work had me for a little bit. Got to trying the jump wire to the fan this morning and fan works. Touched it for a sec and it kicked on. I was thinking maybe one of the control cables snapped?? What you guys think??
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:43 PM
  #23  
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Im not sure, but i think the blower motor control( which turns fan on/off, and allows for 3 speeds, i think?) should be a standard electrical switch, maybe with a rheostat.....I believe that the two push/pull control cables control a couple things ONLY...one controls temp, by opening or closing the water valve on the heater hose, and the other switches where the air gets blown, heater, dash vents, defrost ducts.........
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:46 PM
  #24  
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Oh that makes sence. Maybe bad control switch?? How do I test it??
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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in fact, the pic above seems to confirm this.....the two sliding control, push/pull levers run horizontal, while the fan motor control is vertical, and to the left.....you can see wiring coming out of the back of the switch......now with a snapped control cable, you might not get temp changes, or you wouldnt be able to switch from heater to defrost.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 10:56 PM
  #26  
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You should be able to take a circuit tester, make sure you have power to both sides of the fuse, then determine which wire provides power to the heater circuit( it should be ignition "On" only), then poke the other wires with the probe while running the switch through all its positions. Ideally someone else can tell you how many wires run to this switch, and which colors serve which function.......I seem to recall 3, maybe 4 wires total
 
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Old Jan 23, 2014 | 11:30 PM
  #27  
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I got it. I got a few days off so I'll be hard at work on the truck. I'll keep you posted and if I run into any problems:-P
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 03:18 PM
  #28  
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Have power in the bottom of the fuse but it's blown again.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 10:00 AM
  #29  
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Hey guys. Heater fan motor is bad. Getting a new one today. Will keep you updated.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 10:36 AM
  #30  
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Hope your truck is NOT a/c, other wise it a piece of cake.
 
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