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2003 Explorer - very rough idle - stalling

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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 10:04 PM
  #16  
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Brenda Lamka
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Ya and I needed to replace the valve cover gasket anyway. so no extra labor really. I also have a cracked thermostat housing. lol The list of items to be done to pass inspection is not too long. The previous owner had the brakes done recently, unfortunately they turned the rotors too thin... now they are all below spec and need replacing. All ball joints need to be replaced and driver front wheel bearings and axle. Ball joints seem to be common for Explorers. other that that I only need a couple light bulbs and it should be as good as new. So another $600 in parts and we should be done.
My total will be about $2400 on the road. Not too bad!
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Brenda Lamka
lol Found the leak! it is the Intake manifold gasket! at least I hope it is only the gasket. Will not be sure till I take it apart. Going to be a long, cold week lol.
Good job.

While you have it this far apart, you should consider having the injectors ultrasonically cleaned. If there's over 100k on the clock when I do a job like this, I take the injectors to be cleaned. In my area, it costs about $24 each. The price includes new pintle caps, filter baskets, o-rings and electrical testing. I also get a data sheet showing the before and after condition of the injectors in terms of flow pattern and flow rate.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2014 | 06:57 PM
  #18  
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I have started braking down the top of the engine. Trying to make sure I label each if my wires and vacuum lines then taking pics before I pull off the parts lol. When I drained the oil I found a little metallic grit... so opening the valve cover might be interesting
 
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Old Feb 4, 2014 | 12:24 PM
  #19  
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I have actually ultrasonically cleaned my fuel injectors for my Honda. Cost me one bottle of cleaner. I may do that for the explorer too. I just removed the water outlet and can not find a crack in the plastic housing. thinking it may just be the gasket. will save us over $65 if it is just the gasket. any way to test besides visual inspection?
 
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Old Feb 6, 2014 | 03:51 PM
  #20  
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Melted intake manifold

I removed the old intake manifold and found that it had melted opposite the EGR tube. Presumably the EGR was stuck open for an extended period of time. I assume there is no way to repair the intake manifold. Should I try to clean the EGR or not risk it and replace?
 
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 11:59 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Brenda Lamka
I removed the old intake manifold and found that it had melted opposite the EGR tube. Presumably the EGR was stuck open for an extended period of time. I assume there is no way to repair the intake manifold. Should I try to clean the EGR or not risk it and replace?
I suspect you would have gotten a code if there were EGR flow when there shouldn't have been. The computer should have detected flow when there was no command for flow via the DPFE sensor.

EGR valves live a pretty hard life if you think about what they do so take that into consideration when thinking about replacing it.

The EGR valve could have been open because the EGR valve vacuum solenoid was stuck or erroneously commanded open or is just plain leaky.

If you have one of those hand vacuum pumps like a Mity Vac (I think some parts stores loan them out), you could test to see if the EGR valve is sticky. Apply vacuum and observe if the valve moves smoothly. Likewise, you could apply vacuum to the vacuum solenoid and see if it leaks. Make sure that there is no buildup that prevents the valve from closing completely. You should be able to inspect for this visually.

Also, make sure that the vacuum line to the EGR valve is not hooked up directly to a continuous vacuum source. No telling what the previous owner may have done. In addition, you might want to check that power isn't always present at the EGR vacuum solenoid connector pins.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 07:00 AM
  #22  
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I was able to get it to move but it did not sound right, so I bought a new one...not worth the risk of killing another manifold. I was able to get one from a junk yard for $84.50
 
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #23  
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Success! engine humming! now on to the ball joints, rotors, front wheel bearing assembly and cv axle. looking for tips to make this job easier. So feel free to chime in!
 
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