When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been part of FTE for a while, but just added a 2002 Escape XLT to the fleet. 145k miles, V6, automatic, leather, etc. etc. I've had it for about a week now, and I think we're going to become good friends. I'm just wondering if there are any recommended maintenance items or things to be on the lookout for. Thanks!
Some like to drain trans and refill every 30,000 miles.I would probably do this unless you know its been done.There is a plug that a 3/8 ratchet fits into to drain the fluid usually about 4 quarts come out. Plugs should have been done at 100,000 miles. only ther issues are IAC valves act up with idle issues.
I have a 2008 Mercury Mariner; pretty much exactly same as the Escape except for body and trim.
Anyway, I bought it new and now have 246,000 miles and only thing I have done is
Oil changes, Trans fluid changes, brakes, tires, all the belts, fuel filter--don't forget that.
3,000 miles ago I put new front struts on it.
I could not be happier with this little guy. I am not going to buy the new Escape; guys at Ford service are telling me that the 4 cyl. just wont get the high mileage without having to do some work on it. I don't like the new style, but salesman say its same amount of interior room, but when I sit in it, I feel like I'm in a smaller car. I'm 6' 2".
I'm going to get an Edge for my wife when her Mariner gives up the ghost, or I'll keep it for a back-up vehicle.
You'll love your Escape, just go through it and find any little things wrong and it will last you as long as you need it to.
Thanks everyone for the feedback. The used car lot I bought it from didn't have any maintenance history, so I'll do the trans fluid drain and refill once the weather warms up a bit. No garage, and it's a balmy 7 degrees as I write this.
I had one thing pop up that was a little disturbing. The dash brake warning light stayed on the other day when I released the parking brake. The fluid level was low. I don't see any evidence of leaking anywhere, but I will be keeping an eye on that.
I didn't mention the spark plugs Retreaded, but YES I replaced the plugs at 110,000 and again at 200,000.
I replaced the upper intake gasket as well; I didn't want to push my luck using it twice.
You have to pull the upper intake to get at the rear bank of spark plugs. It very easy, just a little inconvenience.
I did not mention that I had to replace the HCU (hydraulic control unit) for the anti-lock system. I would refill the master cylinder, but also pull the rear drums off when you get a chance and make sure the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes aren't leaking.
If the weather will let you, get a helper or brake bleed kit and bleed the brake system.
Start Rt Rear, Lt Rear, Rt Front and Lt Front. Make sure you get nice clear fluid from each wheel and NO bubbles in the fluid.
Do a road test on dry pavement and get up to about 40 mph and slam on the brakes.
It should stop hard and fast, and you maybe even get a pulsing buzz in the pedal if one or more tires lock up during the stop. It will be the anti-lock system releasing to that skidding tire.
Don't buy any parts until you top off the master cylinder and bleed the system.
Let us know what you come up with....
I have a 2011 escape 4 wheel drive v6 automatic all the nice things wonderful car to drive on the highway very comfortable I do like it, it doesn't get any better fuel mileage though then my 95 Explorer that I got rid of to buy the escape.
I really like that four wheel drive option not a single wheel slips when its in gauged. I do wonder though about replacement of timing belts or chains whichever they are and when they should be done. I have just log 78000 miles and when I bought it it had a lifetime oil changes from Ford what Ford filters.
I would refill the master cylinder, but also pull the rear drums off when you get a chance and make sure the wheel cylinders on the rear brakes aren't leaking.
Originally Posted by scott91370
If the brake light was on due to low fluid it could be about time for pads. As the pads get thinner the fluid has to go somewhere. It's worth a check.
Thanks VMaxman and Scott. If there are no external leaks, then it's one or the other. I suspect front pad wear is the most likely cause, only because they are the heaviest wear items in the entire system. In my experience, leaky wheel cylinders usually have other effects on the brakes because of the fluid getting onto the drum and shoes. It stops straight and true, so once it warms up I'll pull the wheels and get a look at things.