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Handshaker's need some clutch info !!

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Old 01-19-2014, 09:37 AM
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Handshaker's need some clutch info !!

About 2 weeks ago I was headed in to the yard to start my week , I drive big truck , and let off the throttle to slow for my exit got back on it and .... it just free revved . Of course it was the coldest day we have had all winter down here *3 and it was 3:30 in the AM so I locked in the hubs tried 4x4 low and high nothing, I could hear the input shaft turning and as soon as I put it in a gear it would stop ,the clutch pedal feels strange , there was no noise at all when it went . I was having a problem with downshifting sometimes I would have to double clutch it so I'm hoping I just broke the center hub out of the clutch plate .This clutch was in it when I bought the truck and I have put a 100,000 miles on it and they were not easy miles,haul'n all kinds of construction equipment and supplies, pulling loaded semis out of the mud, just good ole hotrodding in general and it never slipped . I think I am going to have a chance today to drop it and see what's going on . I would like some input on some of the clutches out there what do you have ?
 
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:30 PM
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No love for the handshakers I see. Let us know what you find Dave, preferably with pictures. Broken disc makes the most sense.

For the increased power, the popular ones are still Southbend or Valair I think. Low to moderate power the stock Ford clutch holds up pretty well.
 
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Old 01-19-2014, 07:53 PM
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I go with valair if you tell them Cody sent you they give a discount
 
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Old 01-19-2014, 08:20 PM
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When my stock clutch went out I bought a South Bend Con-ofe, new flywheel and new clutch fork/arm. Seeing how these parts totaled over $1K I figured I was good for at least as long as the stock Ford clutch, not so. The SB clutch material facings were in great shape, so was the flywheel, but the clutch disc itself was self destructing(springs were broken and popping out, exactly like the original Valero clutch disc). I do tow quite a bit but the stock clutch handled the same weights, same tuner, same tires and etc. and lasted almost 2X the mileage what the SB had. I figured if a stock clutch was good enough why spend so much for so little return on my investment. I installed a CARQUEST stock style replacement (required stock style flywheel) instead and I am extremely satisfied, no slippage even towing 16K not including truck's weight. The Con-ofe was too "grabby", especially when you were taking off on an incline pulling a trailer. Some folks would lead you to believe SB clutches are the best, but my experience tells me otherwise. I will say, Peter at SB, was very knowledgeable and helpful with my initial purchase. Good luck with your decision. Todd
 
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Old 01-19-2014, 09:18 PM
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Well thankfully it's the clutch
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
No love for the handshakers I see. Let us know what you find Dave, preferably with pictures. Broken disc makes the most sense.

For the increased power, the popular ones are still Southbend or Valair I think. Low to moderate power the stock Ford clutch holds up pretty well.
What are you running Chris ?
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by aquartlow
When my stock clutch went out I bought a South Bend Con-ofe, new flywheel and new clutch fork/arm. Seeing how these parts totaled over $1K I figured I was good for at least as long as the stock Ford clutch, not so. The SB clutch material facings were in great shape, so was the flywheel, but the clutch disc itself was self destructing(springs were broken and popping out, exactly like the original Valero clutch disc). I do tow quite a bit but the stock clutch handled the same weights, same tuner, same tires and etc. and lasted almost 2X the mileage what the SB had. I figured if a stock clutch was good enough why spend so much for so little return on my investment. I installed a CARQUEST stock style replacement (required stock style flywheel) instead and I am extremely satisfied, no slippage even towing 16K not including truck's weight. The Con-ofe was too "grabby", especially when you were taking off on an incline pulling a trailer. Some folks would lead you to believe SB clutches are the best, but my experience tells me otherwise. I will say, Peter at SB, was very knowledgeable and helpful with my initial purchase. Good luck with your decision. Todd
How much power are you putting to the ground Todd ?
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
How much power are you putting to the ground Todd ?
1996pwrstrk,
I have never had it dyno'd, but it's mostly stock with the exception of a few add-ons. TS Performance 6 pos tuner(I usually tow on the 80hp tune), 6637 filter, CCV mod, AIH delete, 6.0 intercooler, shimmed FPR and 4" turbo back straight piped exhaust as well as other mods. I can only take a guess here, but maybe 325hp, could be more, could be less? I know I don't push my truck too hard as compared to others(costs too much to fix). I always have been very good about it's maintenance, because if my truck stops so does my income. I appreciate you asking. Todd
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:28 PM
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Thanks Todd , well the last dyno I had was 300hp and the dyno operator told me he forgot everthing he needed for a diesel hook up but it was free . I pulled the trigger on a new Valair clutch from Thoroughbred Diesel one of our sponsors.NMU70241-01 Valair Single Disc Clutch for ZF6 Transmission Supposed to be good for 400 hp & 900 ftlbs. and its organic on both sides. I'm also slipping in a short shifter ,and bellowed up pipes while I'm that close to them.
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:25 PM
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I'm just running a stock clutch Dave. Thought about going Valair last time, but some say it's a little grabby. Since I'm not making big power, I'm good with stock.

Stock usually lasts me about 225k miles, so if you really like the Valair, I might try that next time.

I'm interested to hear what you think of the set up. Up pipes should be easy with the tranny out. Are you going IH or gonna try the Dorman version for less money?
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
Thanks Todd , well the last dyno I had was 300hp and the dyno operator told me he forgot everthing he needed for a diesel hook up but it was free . I pulled the trigger on a new Valair clutch from Thoroughbred Diesel one of our sponsors.NMU70241-01 Valair Single Disc Clutch for ZF6 Transmission Supposed to be good for 400 hp & 900 ftlbs. and its organic on both sides. I'm also slipping in a short shifter ,and bellowed up pipes while I'm that close to them.
I now know after the SB that having organic on one side and a feramic(?spelling) side wasn't the wisest choice for a clutch disc that would see a lot of towing, too "grabby". 1996pwrstrk, I believe you will be happy with organic on both sides and I have heard many good things about Valair clutches. I also replaced my up-pipes when I had my trans out back in Nov. I went with the bellowed Dormans, problem free so far and much less $$ than the IH units. I also installed an input shaft repair kit from Fitz-all, works great and gets rid of that Kevlar bushing that gets "wallered out" over time resulting in lateral movement of the input shaft, not good for the clutch or trans bearings. Good luck. Todd
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 08:14 PM
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I really liked the Valair clutch. You made a good choice.
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 11:41 PM
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The up pipes are the dorman's , I did a lot of head scratching , and research till I decided on that particular Valair . I will let y'all now how it does probably will not get to the install till Super Bowl weekend .
 
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:07 PM
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The Parts are here, Cookie88 was able to get a flywheel to the machine shop and got it turned . Red Line fluid on the way, PB Blaster soaking on the bolts for the up pipes, I got home too late today to do anything.
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Old 01-25-2014, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
The Parts are here, Cookie88 was able to get a flywheel to the machine shop and got it turned . Red Line fluid on the way, PB Blaster soaking on the bolts for the up pipes, I got home too late today to do anything.
Attachment 89655
While you have the time, take a close look at the Dorman Y-connector for the up-pipes especially the locating pin. Make sure it is round and the end is radius'd so it goes into the turbo housing with little effort. Also hand tighten the up-pipe to Y-connector bolts to be sure they are the correct length, some have said the supplied bolts were 1/4" too long(mine were the correct length). Have a cut-off wheel, die grinder and possibly an oxy-acetylene torch set available, just in case. Good luck and hope everything goes well.
 


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