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I noticed green coolant leaking from bottom of black, what I think is called, timing belt cover. There is 188, 000 miles, and when I changed the timing belt, I did not change the water pump, although I did change out the thermostat. I have done a lot of work on this truck in the past, with the help of this forum. I checked the oil and no signs of water or coolant mixed in. The water pump is not weeping from the top well. I rely on this truck and the way I look at it is I may just keep driving it until it goes kaput (junkyard offered me $100) (its real beat up). Should I go to an auto parts store and see if I can buy some sealant. I would guess it is either the water pump or maybe the timing cover gasket? I have inspected all hoses, and I see nothing. The leak must be coming from somewhere under that black, plastic cover. Any advice would be appreciated, and I am capable and willing to do just about anything other than perhaps a full engine pull, although I have the wherewithal to do that too if absolutely necessary.
There is no place under the timing cover for coolant to leak from. My best guess, you've got a water pump about to go out.
188K is nothing. Just yesterday I put a clutch/slave/flywheel combo in a 97 2.3 ranger showing 205K. The customer paid me more for the repair, than he paid for the whole truck a few years back.......
The water pump has a "weep hole". When its getting near the end of its life, you will get some leakage. It will most likely land right below that and follow a line to an end point such as the bottom of the timing cover. Its all on the outside of it. Look on the sides of the timing cover and whatnot. Trace the leak.
Could also be coming from the water pump gasket area as well. The body is rough? $100 is not a good offer. I would buy it from you as is for $800. I would say drop the $50 bucks and replace the water pump in a couple hours. Extend the time left on the truck x5.
My Fiero hit 400k miles before it finally bit it. My F250 is at 175k and still runs like new. My Ranger has 180k and still runs like a champ. Those miles are nothing to be scared of.
P.S. Water pump weep holes do not really leak while the car is just running. When under the hood, push on the throttle cable and get it to rev high. Watch the weep hole then and around the mating surface. you will see it seep out. Also listen for a "howling" noise. Watch them fingers and that face for the fan too btw.
Plus one to replacing the water pump. I just did it on my 85. I had it in the garage to change the oil, and let it drain for a while as I did other things. Came back and found a puddle of coolant on the floor, next to the drain pan. There had never been any leaks prior, so I checked everywhere for problems. I did not find anything that was wet with coolant, so inspected the front of the engine, near the pan gasket, and found slight traces of coolant.
Put in a re-built pump and has been fine since. I even got to spray paint the new one with a rattle can... The bolt threads are to be coated with a sealant upon installation. My Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer had hardened, so I used some RTV silicone. Hope it works. I even used my 1/4" drive torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts. Never had one before, so it was interesting to see what the specified torque was compared to my 'experience based' torque by feel.
tom
Thank you for your response. I guess I am concerned because when I changed my timing belt a couple of years ago, it seems like I can remember a steel looking housing unit that the water pump was seated within and bolted to. In my Haynes manual it looks like the timing chain cover on the 3.0 L V6 Ranger, but I know I don't have a timing chain - it just looks like I remember that housing unit on mine too. I am concerned that it could be that gasket under that steel housing unit (timing chain cover - I am not sure what it's called on mine if I even have one) that is leaking and not the water pump. I know I can change the water pump. I have changed the timing belt already, so I know what I am doing there. But if it's that gasket, it looks a little bit more complicated including the removal of the crankshaft pulley and damper (which requires a special tool).
Maybe I don't even have what I'm thinking is the equivalent of the "timing chain cover"? Obviously I have a belt, so maybe this housing unit (timing chain cover) doesn't exist on mine?
Thank you again for your insight. I think I'm going to start tearing my truck down on this fine, cold North Carolina Sunday rather than attending church.
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
There is no place under the timing cover for coolant to leak from. My best guess, you've got a water pump about to go out.
188K is nothing. Just yesterday I put a clutch/slave/flywheel combo in a 97 2.3 ranger showing 205K. The customer paid me more for the repair, than he paid for the whole truck a few years back.......
Thanks for your thoughtful response. From what it seems to me, if the coolant was leaking out of the top weep hole (which is the only one I think I can see - there may be a weep hole on the bottom too out of sight???), there would be a trace of green fluid left in that weep hole even after the fact. I see no trace of fluid in that weep hole.
However, I am going out right now to start is up and look to see if I can see anything. When I get under I can easily inspect the lower radiator hose, of which I replaced a couple of years ago when I did the timing belt (I also replaced the top because both looked warn), and I see no sign of fluid leaking out of the bottom hose.
I am really starting to think its my water pump, and I need to go out there are start stripping everything down.
And my truck is really, really beat up - in terms of the $100 offer. It runs rough - it seems like the RPM's spike up and down. I've cleaned ever sensor I can think of, especially in the air intake portion. But it does run rough and the body is beaten to oblivion. Let's just put it this way, when I drive down the road, I get some really funny looks. I never take it on the highway either because I have done all of the fixes AND I AM NOT A MECHANIC. Technically, the truck should be in a graveyard - I used it to pull a bunch of fairly larger trees out of the ground some years ago. I blew out the clutch, broke the differential housing cover, burnt out the ICM (ignition control module) which led to a burnt up catalytic converter. And once I fixed all those things, I changed out the timing belt, replaced plugs and wires, replaced coil packs, and probably did other things I can remember, the truck has run decently for about 2 years now. That $700 to $800 investment has turned into a jackpot deal. I only have to pay $150 in insurance every 6 months on it, and of course it is paid off.
If I lose this truck now, I don't know what I will do. We will be down to a one car family, and although my wife and I teach at the same school here in NC, I need my truck to get me where I need to go without worrying about the family not being able to have transportation.
Thanks so much for your input.
Originally Posted by Frozen_Joker
Lets get more detailed here.
The water pump has a "weep hole". When its getting near the end of its life, you will get some leakage. It will most likely land right below that and follow a line to an end point such as the bottom of the timing cover. Its all on the outside of it. Look on the sides of the timing cover and whatnot. Trace the leak.
Could also be coming from the water pump gasket area as well. The body is rough? $100 is not a good offer. I would buy it from you as is for $800. I would say drop the $50 bucks and replace the water pump in a couple hours. Extend the time left on the truck x5.
My Fiero hit 400k miles before it finally bit it. My F250 is at 175k and still runs like new. My Ranger has 180k and still runs like a champ. Those miles are nothing to be scared of.
P.S. Water pump weep holes do not really leak while the car is just running. When under the hood, push on the throttle cable and get it to rev high. Watch the weep hole then and around the mating surface. you will see it seep out. Also listen for a "howling" noise. Watch them fingers and that face for the fan too btw.
Yes, I am leaning on it being my water pump. Thanks for your comment.
Originally Posted by tomw
Plus one to replacing the water pump. I just did it on my 85. I had it in the garage to change the oil, and let it drain for a while as I did other things. Came back and found a puddle of coolant on the floor, next to the drain pan. There had never been any leaks prior, so I checked everywhere for problems. I did not find anything that was wet with coolant, so inspected the front of the engine, near the pan gasket, and found slight traces of coolant.
Put in a re-built pump and has been fine since. I even got to spray paint the new one with a rattle can... The bolt threads are to be coated with a sealant upon installation. My Permatex #2 non-hardening sealer had hardened, so I used some RTV silicone. Hope it works. I even used my 1/4" drive torque wrench to tighten the pump bolts. Never had one before, so it was interesting to see what the specified torque was compared to my 'experience based' torque by feel.
tom
The water pump bolts directly to the block. As I said, there's nothing under the (plastic) timing cover that could leak coolant, except the block itself (as in cracked block) or the head gasket.
Thank you for your help Rogue. Gosh, I hope the block is not cracked. If I cant trace the leak, should I do a compression test before stripping stuff down to replace the water pump? I have the gauge needed to do a compression test.
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
The water pump bolts directly to the block. As I said, there's nothing under the (plastic) timing cover that could leak coolant, except the block itself (as in cracked block) or the head gasket.