So my truck had a misfire under load and it was tiime to change the plugs anyway. I disconnected the negative from the battery for the 5 or 6 hrs it took me to do the repair. I put the key in and now she turns but doesn't fire. I notice the theft light is rapidly blinking for about a minute then blinks much slower. From doing a search this seems to be a PATS issue. I tried both keys I have and neither makes a difference. I pulled in the code reader, put the truck in ON for a minute and then scanned for codes once the theft light blinked slowly but it shot back "no codes."
Suggestions?

EDIT: I let the rapid blinking theft settle after a minute and then it blinks slower... blink 2.5 seconds blink... 4 seconds blink... 2.5 seconds blink.... 4 seconds blink... 2.5 seconds blink.

 

I'm still stumped. Checked all fuses and they are good. The fuel pump is not priming when you turn the key to start it. The theft light blinks rapidly for a minute and then slows down to blink, 2.5 seconds, blink, 4 seconds, blink, 2.5 seconds, blink, 4 seconds, repeats a few more times.

The truck does have an aftermarket Audiovox alarm with remote start. When I disconnected the battery for the 5+ hours it was the first time I had ever disconnected the battery for longer than 10 mins since I've owned the truck (1.5 months). Could something have reset somewhere that's causing a conflict with the fuel system not engaging?

 

Does the aftermarket alarm have a valet switch? Does it also have a hood switch? A lot of those alarms will not let the engine start when the hood is open (as a safety feature). Also a certain number of clicks on some valet switches will let it crank but no start. Can you pull the inline fuse under the dash for the aftermarket alarm and then see what you get?

 

It does have a hood switch. And the inline fuse for the alarm is ok (15amp). I've tried starting it with the hood up and the hood down. No difference. One thing I just noticed that seems odd is the gauge needles swing all the way to the max once the car is on for a second, then swing back to their normal position. I don't remember them doing this before but I could be wrong.

I called the PO. He helped me locate a toggle switch and also a push button switch for the aftermarket alarm. I tried combinations of those (switching the toggle off/on) and pushing the button down on the push button switch but no changes. Theft light still rapidly blinking. I asked him if he knew the name/brand of the alarm but did not. He did say at one time he had the ability to use his phone to call up and activate/deactivate the truck but he lost that capability when he got a new phone.

He also gave me the name and number of the shop that installed the alarm. I will try giving them a call. At least if I could rule out the fact that it's the aftermarket alarm giving me a problem I would feel better about calling a locksmith or having it towed to the dealer. The aftermarket alarm is behaving normal to me. # of beeps, unlocking/locking doors, blue LED indicator light, etc. But I suppose that doesn't mean it's still not screwing with the factory system.

 

I think the gauge swing is the dash looking for low voltage...IIRC. When you unhook a battery that long it has to start all over with it's parameters. Usually that is not a problem. But I seem to recall similar threads where a drop in voltage can be interpreted as an intrusion by your PATS and trigger a no start...(killing the injectors). Newer remote starts don't use a trigger wire to a fuel injector to "tell" the RS to stop cranking once it is running. Instead it looks for a voltage spike ( car starts) and kicks out the starter. Alarm circuits can work the same way. I would make sure that battery is good and charged up, clean terminals, then try it.

 

Look at that remote starter's PATS bypass circuit.

 

Typically when I would put the key in the on position you hear the fuel pump come on and prime the system for a second before it fires up. The fuel pump is not coming on. I've seen conflicting posts doing tons of searches of some people saying PATS kills the injectors and others saying it can shutoff the fuel pump. Meanwhile I have a trickle charger on the battery now.

 

That toggle switch the PO told you about....does it say on-off? Turn it off, that should totally disable it and then see if it starts. That inline fuse you said looks good for the RS...pull that out and see what you get. Something is locking you out.

 

Either-or...it's not getting fuel. Just for fun, did you check the inertia switch?

 

Wouldn't that be over ridden when you put the key in the ignition...just wondering..

 

And another thing...LOL.....Did you try to start it with the remote start?

 

Yes it says on/off. I tried switching it to off and still, crank no fire. I tried pulling the RS fuse, crank, no fire. Tried it without fuse in both on and off of toggle switch.

If the toggle switch disables the alarm... I wonder what the push button right next to it is for?
I tried pressing down on the switch behind the pass kick panel but it was down so I couldn't press it. I assume that means it wasn't tripped and is fine.
Yes, the remote start attempted cranked it but it didn't fire it up. It tried to start it 3 times.

 

The other switch-button is called the valet switch. It allows you to disarm the alarm but retain lock-unlock type features. That way in a "valet" situation you don't need to give them the remote. Most work by putting the key in the ignition and then turning it on. The valet switch is usually a momentary type switch. Then you press that switch a number of times and the LED for the alarm does something specific to show it is in valet mode. Call the PO and ask him how many presses on the button trips the valet....or maybe it works differently in your case.

Guess I am out of ideas, sounds like the RS is not the problem, which brings us back to PATS. Other than a fully charged battery.....I'm dry. good Luck, hope you get it soon..

 

Thanks. The PO wasn't a ton of help. He had forgotten where the switches were when I called him and even what they actually do. Wish I knew what model # and brand it is. I'm out of ideas too. I'm going to call the shop tomorrow that installed it. Hopefully they can give me some direction or at a minimum tell me what brand and model.

My gut, FWIW (and that's probably not much) says it's a PATS issue and something on the factory side and the aftermarket alarm is fine. I think this because the aftermarket alarms behavior hasn't changed. It still attempts to start the truck, locks/unlocks, beeps are the same.

But the rapid blinking theft light screams PATS. What bothers me is why. Why would this show up now after having the battery disconnected for so long?

If calling the installer tomorrow doesn't get me anywhere I guess the next stop is a tow to the dealer. Ughhhhh.

 

Read the last post in this thread..https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...turn-over.html

I think PATS uses rolling code formats. It knows what the next code from the chip will be based on the last code sent. If you take a newer garage door transmitter and take it out of range and press the button a hundred times, it will take longer the next time you use it in range due to "catch up".