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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Timing cover gasket

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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 02:08 PM
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Timing cover gasket

I am replacing a leaky timing cover gasket on my '72 F100. It is a 360FE and I got the whole front end gasket kit. I am wondering about the pulleys. I don't want to screw up the TDC settings. Do I have to remove just the center nut. Is there a instruction diagram or manual that show me how. I would appreciate any assistance.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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When you remove the crankshaft bolt the balancer has to removed with a puller. The key removed and there is a collar behind the balancer to remove. Also , you will have to remove the fuel pump I think.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 02:43 PM
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Since you aren't removing the timing chain or cam the settings won't change. The key will only go in the one slot so balancer only goes on one way. You will have to pull bolts off the oil pan on the bottom of the cover. Also have to pull water pump so pretty involved fix.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Thank you guys. i wanted to make sure before I pulled it apart.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chefcharles
I am replacing a leaky timing cover gasket on my '72 F100. It is a 360FE and I got the whole front end gasket kit. I am wondering about the pulleys. I don't want to screw up the TDC settings. Do I have to remove just the center nut. Is there a instruction diagram or manual that show me how. I would appreciate any assistance.
If you're digging that far into the engine, consider rebuilding with fresh rubber hose for the water pump. Come to think of it, a fresh water pump might be a good call too.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 07:22 AM
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Check the play on the timing chain if you have many miles on the engine. They're not that expensive. Less than $25 for the set, cam, crank gears and chain. Definitely change the small rubber hose on the water pump.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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I have never pulled just the timing cover so......how hard is it to get the oil pan area sealed up assuming you don't pull the pan off to replace the entire gasket?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:29 AM
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It was easy for me when I replaced my timing chain. after tearing apart the front of the engine and finally got the new chain on. I just got some rtv high temp silicone gasket maker and put a healthy bead around the oil pan and up the face of the engine some to seal it up worked great for me with no leaks.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2014 | 09:41 AM
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Good advise from Crazy. That's the way to do it.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex from GA
Check the play on the timing chain if you have many miles on the engine. They're not that expensive. Less than $25 for the set, cam, crank gears and chain. Definitely change the small rubber hose on the water pump.
2x Alex on the timing chain. Unless you plan on changing the cam in the near future I would change the chain and gears now while you have the cover off. Get a good quality set. The marks on the medium to cheap gears can be 1 -2 degrees off +/-. Which advances or retards the cam that amount. Spin the engine by hand till it's at TDC with #1 on the compression stroke. Before you remove the old gears and chain make sure the marks on the two gears are pointing at each other. Crank's gear mark at 12:00 and the cam's gear at 6:00. If not then the #1 cylinder was not on the compression stroke. No problem. Spin the engine around till the marks then point at each other. Once they do remove the old and install the new in the same way. Don't spin the engine when there is no chain on it.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 12:54 PM
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Almost forgot. Because of the slop in the original chain, when you go to install the new chain and gears the cam might not be clocked exactly perfect. That's OK. Simply spin the cam just enough to get the two marks to line up pointing at each other.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
2x Alex on the timing chain. Unless you plan on changing the cam in the near future I would change the chain and gears now while you have the cover off. Get a good quality set. The marks on the medium to cheap gears can be 1 -2 degrees off +/-. Which advances or retards the cam that amount. Spin the engine by hand till it's at TDC with #1 on the compression stroke. Before you remove the old gears and chain make sure the marks on the two gears are pointing at each other. Crank's gear mark at 12:00 and the cam's gear at 6:00. If not then the #1 cylinder was not on the compression stroke. No problem. Spin the engine around till the marks then point at each other. Once they do remove the old and install the new in the same way. Don't spin the engine when there is no chain on it.
Good avise JEFFFAFA this is why I swapped out my timing chain because of the slack in it. I replaced mine exactly how you explained it turned dots towards each other slipped the old gears and chain off new ones on and lined up bolted all back together and RTV'd the pan like I said above. Here's acouple pics of my process.

Old chain slack

Old marks lined up

New chain on dots lined up

Buttoned up
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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Good Job on addin' the pics crazed. Pictures can be worth a thousand words. REP'ed ya.
 
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