When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Most likely, it's coming from the hard piping that runs from the IAC valve to the intake. Locate the IAC, then trace the piping around the right side and back up to the intake. Replace this whole length (it will consist of rubber hose, hard plastic piping, and a little plastic "potato" looking thing) with a 24"-26" length of 1/4" heater hose. That should quiet it right down.
This is our preferred solution to intake whistling problems that usually arise from aftermarket intakes. Aftermarket intakes will aggravate the whistling, but upon further inspection, I found that the OEM intake whistled, too.
Hey Matt, how's the heat down in Annapolis, miss that rain don't ya? I just replaced my intake pieces and I want to do this mod that you just described. Is the IAC the squar-ish box that sits up next to the throttle body and is connected to the intake tube/piping? If so mine only has about 3" of replaceable tubing going into the intake tube and it's about 5/8 or 3/4 in diameter now. This must not be what you are talking about, clear me up neighbor.
Oh it's nice and hot down here. Humid, too. Like being in a damn jungle
To find the IAC: remove the black plastic "Triton" cover over the throttle body. Look right behind the TB, on the left. There is a little thingamajig back there - attaches to the rear of the TB with 2 bolts. This is the IAC. If you look, there is a small length of rubber tubing coming out from the IAC, moving right and behind the TB. From there, it turns into a hard plastic molded hose which wraps around the right side and reenters the intake right before the TB (There are 2 hoses that meet the intake right there; this is one of them). Anyhow, remove all the tubing from the IAC all the way to the intake, and replace it with about 26" of 1/4" heater hose. I'm going to attach a picture for you. This is a 5.4 TB - if you look towards the rear, there is a silver thing sticking out that's outlined with a thin orange line - this is the IAC. There is a length of black hose pointed down (I colored it orange.) That's the hose that needs to be replaced - notice the funky black plastic cylinder - as far as I'm aware, it serves no purpose.
Let me know if you need any more help!
Take care!
XXL
Last edited by BigMattXXL; Jun 28, 2003 at 12:50 AM.
Thanks Matt but my 4.6 doesn't look like that. The only tube from the IAC to the intake on mine is the one I described, 5/8 heater hose with a squar-ish black box inline. I looked at the box and saw nothing inside, so I have no idea what it does.
Well, if you have an IAC, similar to the one in the picture, then I would go ahead and replace that hose that's nearby as per the instructions, only subsitute another size heater hose that will fit appropriately - the key is replacing the molded plastic parts with soft rubber. The plastic is prone to whistling. Let me know what you come up with.
When I get back from vacation I plan on taking some digital pics of my mods, if you can use any for your project that would be great. I'll get my mechanic to put it up on his lift so I can get some really good shots of the catback and sway bar installs. I'll pull the Triton cover off and show you what I did to that hose in a seperate pic.
On another note I ordered the Transgo Shift Kit, AODE/4R70W TransGo SKAODE TR10359, for $40 from KDS. When my mechanic services my tranny I plan on having him install this. I'll be almost fully modded then-chip will have to wait till I can sell off some more basement junk on Ebay.
Originally posted by EZmoney Thanx Matt...I'll check it out tonite after work.
Just out of curiousity, why does simply changing from plastic pipe to hose make a difference?
Ford is the reigning champion of "reverse engineering". Reverse engineering is when you completely build something, find a flaw, and then modify an existing part to compensate for the flaw. In the case of the Triton 5.4, Ford wanted to use molded plastic hoses in the engine compartment because they are more organized (they don't get twisted up, etc) than rubber hoses and they don't deteriorate. Unfortunately, the air running through the plastic tubes hits some resonant frequency, resulting in the whistle. Which brings us to the little black box that is part of the hose assembly - nobody knows what it does, but widespread speculation has led us to conclude that it is some sort of anti-resonance device (reverse engineering) that was supposed to reduce the whistling noise. Replacing the whole thing with $1 worth of heater hose fixes the entire problem.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.