COMPUTER CONTROLED CHOKE???
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COMPUTER CONTROLED CHOKE???
My 85 inline 6 runs like a top till i shut her down and try and to fire her back up. from what i can tell the butterfly closes all the way when shut off. it will start if i hold it flat and crank for 30sec. when i just prop the fly open it starts right up. I'm not fimilair with this type of computer run carb. the two adjusting screws on drivers side of carb work how?? And adjusting screw on passenger side is idle??
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This don't make sense i have a duraspark ll ignition and from what i have read on recent posts from you guys is that, this setup is not factory and i belive it was swaped in incorrectly. Also the carb is a motorcraft. aka carter. am i correct? Also its what i belive to be both computer and vacumm controled. i have pics but newbie here. one last thing franklin you mentioned a black thing on carb for choke, i don't belive this mecinisum is functional. Pics in my alblum. gotta get some wood in soon. Thanks-brad
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From: Marlborough, CT
The black thing is the bimetallic spring-if it's electrically heated (like it is on my 86) the "black thing" is riveted and non adjustable (as it is on my 86). Also, the heat tube from the manifold needs to be properly hooked up for everything to work correctly. ~Bill
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Actually both are important but the small tube draws heat from the manifold to open the choke. ~Bill
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From: Haysville, KS
On my 85, the choke spring (the black cap) was held on with three screws and was adjustable. The choke is not computer controlled, but the idle mix is.
If it's a choke issue; check the choke pull-off. The choke should be closed all the way on a cold engine, and during cranking the choke pull-off should open it up a little bit. On mine, it had a vacuum pulloff that could be tested easily with a vacuum pump. It only needs about 4 hg to hold it open.
Don't mess with the choke settings until you understand how it's supposed to work. There are several good articles on the web about setting automatic chokes.
The two screws near the back on the driver side are your fast idle and curb idle screws. The one on the passenger side should be the idle mix.
My feedback carb had tons of issues, which is why I converted to a HEI ignition and 'normal' carburetor. Computer is long gone..
If it's a choke issue; check the choke pull-off. The choke should be closed all the way on a cold engine, and during cranking the choke pull-off should open it up a little bit. On mine, it had a vacuum pulloff that could be tested easily with a vacuum pump. It only needs about 4 hg to hold it open.
Don't mess with the choke settings until you understand how it's supposed to work. There are several good articles on the web about setting automatic chokes.
The two screws near the back on the driver side are your fast idle and curb idle screws. The one on the passenger side should be the idle mix.
My feedback carb had tons of issues, which is why I converted to a HEI ignition and 'normal' carburetor. Computer is long gone..
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From: Virginia
A lot of the "black things" were originally riveted. When the carb is rebuilt or you want to adjust it, you drill the rivets out and use screws to replace the rivets. Screws come in the rebuild kit.
I agree though, make sure the heat tube is working and hooked up that goes to the black piece. That's what warms the choke and makes it open. If this is not working and you adjust it, then the choke will probably stay open all the time.
Another option you might consider is a manual choke conversion kit they sell in the store. It's a cable that you hook to the choke, has a replacement "black thing" and you control it manually like a lawnmower throttle. They should have them in the autoparts store.
I agree though, make sure the heat tube is working and hooked up that goes to the black piece. That's what warms the choke and makes it open. If this is not working and you adjust it, then the choke will probably stay open all the time.
Another option you might consider is a manual choke conversion kit they sell in the store. It's a cable that you hook to the choke, has a replacement "black thing" and you control it manually like a lawnmower throttle. They should have them in the autoparts store.
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From: Haysville, KS
The heat assisted, electric chokes actually work very well. The most common issue I've seen with them are issues with the pull off and not the choke itself. That, and younger folks not knowing to 'set' the choke before trying to start it.
The choke will work without the heat tube, but just slower. The 12v to the choke heats the spring also. It's a hot air assist choke and does need the hot air to work as designed, but will still function without it.
The vacuum pull off should be connected to manifold vacuum by the way.
If this is strictly a 'warm start' issue, I'm thinking it may not actually be choke related. It could be a flooding issue or such also. I HAVE seen issues when the bowl vent solenoid doesn't function properly (it should vent the bowl when the engine is off and warm). If it isn't working right, it can simulate a flooding condition. Been there, seen it..
The choke will work without the heat tube, but just slower. The 12v to the choke heats the spring also. It's a hot air assist choke and does need the hot air to work as designed, but will still function without it.
The vacuum pull off should be connected to manifold vacuum by the way.
If this is strictly a 'warm start' issue, I'm thinking it may not actually be choke related. It could be a flooding issue or such also. I HAVE seen issues when the bowl vent solenoid doesn't function properly (it should vent the bowl when the engine is off and warm). If it isn't working right, it can simulate a flooding condition. Been there, seen it..
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From: Virginia
I thought that also till I found out some of the assist units are thermostatically controlled. That is they are not even hooked up to the 12v(approx 7v from the alternator actually) till the thermostat built into the unit closes.
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From: Virginia
If they have little affect on how the engine runs, then your idle speed is too high.