Well I noticed this morning that my instrument cluster wasn't working.

None of the gauges were working and the WTS light never came on. Also the interior lights remained on after starting, but as soon as I turn off the truck the interior lights go off. They also stay off when I open the door.

I checked the fuses and found #35 was blown. I replaced it and started the truck again and the same fuse blew again.

I did replace the batteries last Saturday. Nothing new was hooked to the box.

 

now that I've harmed back up, I headed back outside.

I hooked the light tester and went through the fuse box. I found that my #5 instrument power was blown and #35 instrument cluster. This time I replaced both and was fine for a minute then they both went out after I started the truck for the second time.

This is odd to me.

 

same symptom my buddy had. Ended up being the yellow wire in the steering column was shafed. Patched ur up and allz been good

 

Not sure what you mean by shaved. If it's the same one I've looked at before it does have a tapped accessory wire to it.

 

the yellow wire had exposed wire, causing a short. Fixed it and all was good

 

You'll have to go through your circuit and look for a short to ground man. Sucks chasing wires.

 

I started to look into my wiring diagram book, and after looking at my fuse box/junction box the fuses that are blowing are #35 (instrument cluster, interior lamps, battery saver relay), and #6 (turn signal relay, trailor tow).

I originally said #5, but I guess I couldn't count.

Question could be, Why would the interior lights come on once I started the vehicle then? last night they finally turned off and now have since stayed off while driving. If I opened the door they wouldn't come on, only if the vehicle was started they would stay on. I double checked the dimmer switch and that wasn't clicked all the way up.

I'm going in circles without results. Might have to take it somewhere

 

My truck is fixed now.

I attempted to take it to the dealership, but they said they wouldn't work on it due to all the extra wires. Even though they were all unhooked and not the issue.

I finally got a hold of a guy who worked on it before and took it there. Ended up being two wires down underneath the kick panel and sill plate. The wires were crushed from all the stepping up and getting down. Guess over time the wires get crushed and broken.

Anyways, the cost was cheap and he was honest.

 

Nice.. Great..

 

great find and glad it was a cheap fix....my p/s window stopped working and after tearing panel off, found that the window track cut the wires in half. It was how it routed through the frame...stupid.