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Do you have any shims in the hinges? It looks liken the picture your rear gap is pretty tight and that you have plenty of gap space at the front. Look alike you may be able to shim the bottom hinge a little to bring up that rear gap. But is your rear gap is that tight all the way around you may run into fitment issues.
I have no wedge installed, I removed the hinge down to try to align the top edge but no ......... seems as if the car were twisted, would have to lower the rear but not as do not damage anything .....
are you using new hinges? looks like the door is sagging. I had a similar problem, bought new hinges and that corrected the problem. Or could be the top door hinge is a little out of adjustment.
Your gaps look pretty good around the rest of the door. Moving the door straight up(if you can) will make it less noticeable, The only other option is to cut-align-weld the door opening to fit the door. Adjusting the rear of the door up will tighten the gap at the bottom too much.
These trucks were built for utility, not fit and finish. Very few have doors that fit properly.
What nobody mentioned is that your doors have had the corners rounded so I say you may have to take down a little of the front corner and weld build up the rear corner to make it fit the way you want. That is what I would do.
What nobody mentioned is that your doors have had the corners rounded so I say you may have to take down a little of the front corner and weld build up the rear corner to make it fit the way you want. That is what I would do.
I agree, just make the adjustments to both upper corners and start prepping for paint. The rest of your Gaps look too good to try to shim it up.
What nobody mentioned is that your doors have had the corners rounded so I say you may have to take down a little of the front corner and weld build up the rear corner to make it fit the way you want. That is what I would do.
thank you very much for the comments, the hinges are original, the cabin is fairly well established, I would like to make adjustments before mounting in place since it was painted. it may be that when you make the repair I have been so, but not because he changed floors, roof, and some corner, but I only have the problem at that point.
truckeemtnfords, I can illustrate what I proposed? thanks for the interest
When I did my panel I had uneven and wide gaps as well. I adjusted the doors as best as I could and welded 1/8" x 3/8' flat bar to the edge of the door then ground down to make the gaps even. You'd never notice it on top of your door. The rest of your gaps look pretty good.
Lots of good advice here...but the problem is not with the door, it is with the cab itself. These trucks were built to be working vehicles and little extra attention was paid to "fit and finish". That roof is installed too high in the back so you will be limited in how you can fix it and still make it look right.
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
When I did my panel I had uneven and wide gaps as well. I adjusted the doors as best as I could and welded 1/8" x 3/8' flat bar to the edge of the door then ground down to make the gaps even. You'd never notice it on top of your door. The rest of your gaps look pretty good.
this seems like a good option, I wonder if you have any picture of the process
Lots of good advice here...but the problem is not with the door, it is with the cab itself. These trucks were built to be working vehicles and little extra attention was paid to "fit and finish". That roof is installed too high in the back so you will be limited in how you can fix it and still make it look right.
In your case...take a look at the flow of the body line on the vertical door jamb opening just below the roof seam, this is the point at which the drip rail ends. See how the curve of the body flows naturally along the curve of the door? Now look at the door opening at the roof/drip rail...see how the curve does not match? This is the gap that needs to be filled. 56panelford has a good recommendation and one that I have personally used on many occasions...however, in your case this technique would make the door look off balance. I would recommend that you get all the other gaps of the door aligned and then fill the opening under the drip rail as needed to make the upper gap uniform around the door. You may need to adjust the width of the drip rail to keep the rail size uniform from front to rear but that is far less work than lifting roof panel and installing it in the proper position relative to the door jamb. Good luck...
that image is misaligned, but this not really much in this new image will be better appreciated, the proposed option seems more complicated ....
In the old days when these vehicles were built they used a long 4x4 stuck through the opposite door opening to lever up the door bending the A pillar. I have the opposite problem on my '50 F2 due to restructuring at the bottom of the right A pillar. I'm going to have to move the lower hinge forward to make it fit. It requires too much movement for shims.
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