I have been inquiring about fixing my spot on my cab on driver's side top front corner, and everyone has told me to weld. This is very refreshing to hear a different opinion. Will it work on corners like mine? 1990 f150...

 

I think it will work anywhere as long as it is not a key panel structurally, ie, like a frame rail, and as long as you can get the hole and the patch to match and be smooth when they are glued together.

I'll post SEM's warranty, but pretty sure its forever including parts and labor to replace the panel if the glue ever fails (assuming it was installed correctly).

 

Thanks all of yall for the info. Gonna do it! 1990 f150

 

BTW, the SEM glue is an epoxy, and needs a special gun to use it. The glue itself runs about $28 for a 7oz container, and the gun was about $55.

 

I did both rear quarter panels with Fusor last week. There were two small areas, front and rear on both sides, and the wheel arch itself which I did with LMC patch panels.

I inquired about the 3M adhesive but my jobber directed me to Fusor, mainly because of the gun cost. The Fusor system includes a caulking gun adaptor for the smaller tubes. The adaptor was only $7 and the Fusor - $13/ per. I ended up using 4 units of the epoxy for the entire job (two arch patch panels & 4 smaller patches).

I like the fact that I was able to seal the entire seam with the epoxy. I got a flange tool for Christmas which helped on the large panels. The panels came with an e-coat primer, and I ground down just enough of the backside edge to provide a good bare metal bonding surface (about 1/2"). I applied the Fusor and spread it with a paddle so that it overlapped onto the primer (about 3/4"). Once in place, the back side was fully protected by either the primer, the Fusor or the undercoating - which I applied to the inside of the (cleaned) remaining quarterpanel.

The only problem I ran into was clamping the large panels securely. I was advised to use a few sheetmetal screws - which worked. Once removed, I filled the holes with more Fusor.

I'm impressed so far and, by all accounts, I expect the panels to hold up longer than the originals - now that I've also cured the rust traps that Ford created in the first place...

broncr

 

The reason a lot of shops are using it is because it is cheaper and apparently acceptable to the consumer as well as the insurance companies but be aware that cheaper is seldom better.

I'm not in a position to judge these products as I have no personal experience with them but I would think that if your looking for permanent fixes, especially on a collector vehicle or one you plan to keep around for a while, weld in the panels. I would avoid doing it ‘just because everyone else is doing it’.

I think the jury is still out on this one.

 

Here's that warranty...

"DUAL-MIX FOREVER WARRANTY

When used according to directions, SEM guarantees to the purchaser that all DUAL-MIX products will perform to specifications forever. This warranty covers reasonable costs for labor, loss of use of the vehicle, parts and materials only and excludes consequential or incidental damages.

A copy of this completed document must be retained with the repair file and submitted with any claims. "

You then fill in VIN, vehicle info, SEM product and lot number.

Mine repair is SOLID, its not coming apart. And, since I didn't weld it, I have no panel warpage from heat, no slag to grind off. No unexposed metal that will immediately start to rust (either weld or surrounding).

In my case, I did EVERYTHING myself. Ok my wife helped too. BUT, even if it did fall apart, I could redo it again myself and still save money over paying somebody else to do it once.

I'll be the first to let you know if I have any problems with it. As of right now, I'm convinced its the way to go.

 

I agree that "the jury is still out", but was convinced to try panel adhesive for many reasons. One of the bigger factors was crash testing done. Panels were removed and then rewelded in some cases, and glued in others. Vehicles were then crash tested. For comparison, untouched vehicles were also crashed. The adhesive held up as well or better than both welded AND unaltered repair areas.

Another thing that helped sell Fusor was the jobber's story. Fusor began as a company that provided epoxy for attaching motor mounts to engines - IN AIRCRAFT! It's likely their panel adhesive
isn't the exact same stuff, but it gave me more confidence in the product. I'm not as worried about a panel repair failure as I would be about the plane's engine coming loose - they must have done extensive testing on heat & vibration, etc., that could then be applied to automotive uses.

I know the stuff is somewhat experimental. Sign me up as one. I , too, will give an honest response as the (hopefully) years go by. Right now it's held up to the rigors of sitting in the garage for a little over a week...

broncr

 

BTW, I also cut down my patch panel. The flange tool left the corners a bit wanting, so I ground a little extra off the back side of the patch panel. A few screws to secure it and pre-fit, clamps where possible. I had to add almost 1/8" filler in the worst spots. I used the technique described at www.Fusor.com and overlapped a couple of the smaller patches, then ground them before filling. Not as good as the flange method, but not bad...

 

Hey guys
I went to check out a price for some of that adhesive ,and gun ,they want $220 for the gun.Well I only have a 4inch by 6inch area that I want to glue a panel to,why couldnt I buy the adhesive ,and cut the end off, put it on a piece of scrap metal,and mix it like it is bondo,then spread it around the areas that I need. Then I wouldnt have to buy a $220 gun!!!!

would it work???????

thanks Bill

 

Ask if they carry Fusor. I think I paid $7.95 for the standard caulking gun adaptor. The small tubes of Fusor were $12.95. Does $20ish sound better?. I did do one small patch using the method you described - squeeze & mix. It worked.

I'd recommend the medium set (45 min. work time) for anything large. I used the quick set (5-7 min.) and it got a little touchy once or twice - on the bigger patches.

The quick set should do nicely for smaller patches. I did four 4"X8" 's. Use a posicle stick to spread the caulk line out & apply to both surfaces of the bond, especially overlapping onto the undercoat of the "back" or "inside" of the patch piece - so you've got a nice, corrosion resistant finish inside there when it's all done.

broncr

 

sigtauenus

You did a great job with the pictures and going through the entire process.

Thanks.

 

I second that! I'll be referring others to this post and directing them to your pic's - nice job. That brought back some fun memories!

I had intended to do the same ( picture documentation), but got carried away with the moment. I'll post pic's of my "finished" product as soon as I get them developed. They (finished to primer) look similar to yours, except mine is a Bronco.

Bt the way, it was -10* yesterday & the Fusor bonded panels showed no ill effects. I keep getting positive comments, & mine is just epoxy primered ( under & over the filler).

broncr

 

I went to a auto body school lecture a year ago and
a panel adhesives expert said that all new car
manufacturers are going to adhesives and that
panel welding may be a thing of the past...sounds
like you folks are on the right track.

 

Don't get me wrong. I really liked the way it worked for me but, the industry agenda is more often driven by overall cost than quality.

Waterbased paint is a good example. Many of the big guys have switched, however it was because of VOC compliance issues rather than WB's being "better".

I'll keep using Fusor anyway...

broncr