i have a 1985 ford f150 4x4 long bed super cab with a 5.8 (351w) 4v ho it ran poor ao i checked timing it was way out so i replaced timing set it was bad when i replaced it it was barely catching on the crank gear it has also a new ignition moduale, coil, fuel pump, fuel line, an filter plus the timing set i have had it apart twice an finally get the timing set right bet i still cant get it to start by dumping gas in the carb an sugguestions on it cause im getting no where fast an i have to much money in this to scape it

 

Do you have good spark?

 

Start with the basics:

Do you have good compression readings?
Good Spark?
Fuel?
Ignition Timing?
Valve Timing?

I'd check compression just to have a known starting point. If compression is off, I'd do a leak down test to determine if it's rings, valves, head gasket, plug holes (bad / leaking threads), etc.

While the plugs are out, I'd bring it to TDC on #1 COMPRESSION stroke and make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 plug wire. That will get your ignition timing close enough.

Also check the condition of the plugs. Plugs can tell you a lot (wet, carbon fouled, tan, broken, etc..)

When putting things back together, make sure the firing order is correct.

Then I'd put a spark tester on each cylinder and make sure I had good spark (one cylinder at a time as I don't have 6 spark testers..). If you have any issues here, then you have ignition issues. (module, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, power)

If that all checked out, I'd start looking at fuel / carburetor issues / choke / etc. (is fuel getting to the carburetor?, Carburetor itself?, Choke stuck?, etc.)
Vacuum leaks can be another issue, but they would have to be pretty darn bad for it not to start at all.

 

my compression reads like this 1] 75psi

 

1] 75 psi 5] 75 psi
2] 100 psi 6] 70 psi
3] 65 psi 7] 65 psi
4] 70 psi 8] 65 psi

that is my readings with a wet or dry compression test

 

an each cylinder has good spark

 

fuel is not getting to the carb but i put gas in the carb an nothing no even a back fire

 

OK,

If the weather lets you:

Check and verify that your distributor is in correctly; check it the way KsCop says to.
If the distributor is only one tooth off--it won't start. Make sure the firing order is following correctly too--should sequence the direction of the rotor turning.

Shoot some starting fluid and see if you can get it to at least pop and sputter.
Not sure what to tell you about the compression readings; there are so many variables that can affect that, but as long as they are fairly even--she should run.

Do one more thing that is fast and easy:
Take your test light if you have one.
Then attach the test light clip to the (neg) battery cable and touch the test light probe to the green wire with the yellow stripe on it at the ignition coil and have someone crank the engine over. The test light should visibly blink while engine turns over--that tells you the ignition module is firing a signal to the coil. If the test light just sits there lit and doesn't blink/flicker then your module has went bad (OR) the stator inside the distributor has bit the dust as well. You said you have spark, but wouldn't hurt to check this as electrical parts don't warn you, they just quit working.

 

First of all, those compression readings seem VERY low. I'd expect closer to 150 with a minimum acceptable of 100 or so. Readings that low, with no change wet would have me thinking head gasket or a problem in the head (valve timing off, etc). It isn't really enough that they are close to each other; there has to be enough compression to do the job. They could all be zero and be close to each other..

If it were me, I'd do a leak down test next and listen close
if you hear air in the intake - bad intake valves (or valve timing off)
Air in the exhaust - bad exhaust valves (or valve timing off)
Air out the breather - valve seals / guides
Air under the head - head gasket (can also spray soapy water along the head/block seam - bubbles mean a leak..)

When you tested compression: Was the throttle all the way open and you let it crank at least 5 revolutions per cylinder, correct?

Those compression numbers really bother me. They are all close enough to each other, but way too low. Assuming those are correct.

You may want to recheck those numbers: Throttle wide open, 5 cranks on each test. Make sure compression gauge is screwed in good and not leaking also. If those are the right numbers, do the leak down test. Fuel / Spark / Anything else won't much matter if that's the best compression you have.

Double check and let me know. I have seen timing chain / gear issues cause this since the valves then open and close at the wrong times. If valve timing is off too much, pistons can hit valves and that's not good..

You did say you replaced the timing set? If that's off, that would explain it..

 

Also - distributor being 'one tooth off' is a fallacy. You can always just turn the distributor to get things to line up assuming you have room. At this point, I wouldn't be thinking ignition or fuel.

Consider what has been done. It was running poorly so you changed the timing set. I assume you had a specific reason for that other than 'running poorly'?

If something wasn't done right when timing gears and / or chain / belt was messed with, and then the engine was cranked, you could have bent some valves. Assuming things are set correctly at this point and given the low compression readings, I'm thinking something ain't quite right in valve land..

 

Those readings are very low. It looks like the timing chain may still not be right. If the valves open and close at the wrong time, it won't build compression. I bet when it cranks over it sounds a little different and not steady doesn't it? You may even hear weird air sounds coming out of the carb or out of the exhaust pipe.

 

Didn't I just say that? I used way more words though..

LOL

 

no it spounds right but when i replaced the timing set the chain was barley touching the crank gear teeth an i tried the rest an it didnt change anything an i never pulled my distibuter so idk how it would be a tooth off but it looks like this weekend ill be pulling the heads an find out what i c

 

If it was running before changing the timing chain.....but not now.......

 

My money is on valve train / valve timing. It never sounded like an ignition problem to me and, as I said, one 'tooth' off isn't really accurate in any case. The ignition timing can be pretty far off and the engine will usually still start. Even at 180 off it will try. Given your compression numbers, assuming they are accurate, you are looking at something that is affecting all cylinders. Even a head gasket wouldn't usually present like that.

If valve timing is off, they are open at the wrong time so compression can never really build. Given that symptom and the fact that you did work on the the timing set; I'm thinking that is your problem. Maybe I missed it, but why did you change the timing set in the first place? That might give some information as well.

Always start troubleshooting with the basics. I always go in this order: Compression, Spark, Fuel (to include things like air and fuel filters). If you have all that, it should at least try to start. After that it's ignition timing, plugs, carburetor settings (fine tuning items).

Hopefully, in your case the valve timing is just off and nothing else was damaged. If you have to pull the head, its heavy but not that difficult. If there is any piston damage from smacking into valves, well that's another story. Let's hope for the best and it's just valve timing with no damage.

It could also be a rounded cam problem, but if it was running before I think it's more likely valve timing. Just my 2 cents