So I'm replacing my front disk brakes and ran into a few issues.
1. From my new set of NAPA pads, the inner pads will not fit in place. The outer pad is fine, but the inner pad won't fit into the recess at the end points. Has anyone had this problem? I'm hoping it is just poor machining tolerances and a new set will seat fine?

2. Do I need to replace the caliper retainer key and the spring clip that locks the caliper in place? The shop manual says to use new ones, but the old ones look fine...
NAPA AUTO PARTS

3. When do rotors need to be resurfaced or replaced? Mine do not have any deep grooves, but the lip/edge is raised relative to the rotor. The vents and edges are rusty too. I wasn't planning on replacing the wheel bearings. Also at that point, if I replace the rotors, shouldn't I replace the caliper as well?

Thanks for your advice. The Haynes manual has been worthless on this one, and the shop manual was indispensable in this case.

 

1. No problem with my Raybestos pads.

2. New hardware is not required per se. If it looks fine and nothing is bent (like the anti-rattle clip) then I'd just reuse the hardware. No need to replace the calipers unless they are leaking or otherwise defective with internal corrosion.

Why not rebuild 'em? Only costs like $7 per caliper. YOU can do it.

3. The purpose of turning the rotors is to give new pads a fresh "bite" and eliminate the need for the pads to conform to surface deformities that may be present. If it's evenly worn all the way across where the pad rides, I'd dress it with a 80-grit disc to break the glaze and give the surface some tooth and run 'em.

I painted the rotors' rough casting and vents (yes, all the vents ) using POR-15 and about 20 Q-tips.

Before being de-rusted using the electrolysis method:


After.. rust-free with new seals and high temp paint:

 

I had the same problem with my NAPA pads for my '79. I adjusted them with my bench grinder to make them fit. If i remember correctly the top ear fit but the bottom ear didn't. I ground the ear a little at a time until it fit.

 

Thanks for the advice. I didn't want to have to mess with them, but if the new NAPA set are also a bit off, the angle grinder it is!

HIO Silver- you are right, I can rebuild the calipers if needed. Mine are not leaking and seem fine, it would be preventative maintenance. I found the rebuild seals at NAPA, do you just re-use the old pistons? The paint came out great on your set! I was considering a coat of POR15 and silver or black paint.

I'm also going to bring my rotors to a shop and see if they can be turned. I'll end up putting in new wheel bearings too. New mid-range rotors from NAPA run $35 a piece, but why get new ones if the old ones are just fine? NAPA does sell a set for $100 a pop, no idea why they are so much more expensive.

 

Yeah man. Reuse 'em if they look ok upon disassembly. New ones are available too.

 

So I've embarked on a rebuild, let me know if this sounds kosher. Worst case is I pay $40 for a pair of new calipers, might as well add it in while I replace everything else.

So I degreased the calipers and got the old pistons out. The pistons are steel (score)! They are overall in good shape, very little marking on them, on the top edge where the rubber boot comes down has some damage. It is a few nicks and mars along the face, but nothing that extends into the cylinder.

The calipers are rusty, and there was rust and sludge in the cylinder. I washed them off, hit them a steel brush, but still had rust in the ring goove. So I soaked them in POR15-Metal Ready de-rusting solution for 30 mins. It by no means derusted the whole thing, that would take a week, but the rubber ring groove came out clean! I hope the deruster did not etch the cylinder enough to cause any problems. The washed them off with copious amounts of water and the steel brush, and am drying them overnight at 130F to bake out any water trapped in the passageways. A quick check has revealed dried up "rust dust" landing in the cylinder. I figure I'll liberally hit them with brake cleaner before painting with POR15 and high temp paint.

Thoughts? Is this approach OK, or abort? My concerns are:
1. I soaked the things in water, never good.
2. There is still rust on the groove that holds the rubber caliper boot. not sure if that matters, but no way to really remove it.
3. What if the hydraulic passageways have crude in them that is stuck...

Thanks for the input. Since they are my main brakes I want to be very cautious but I am always willing to try a repair myself first.

 

So calipers have been cleaned, pistons cleaned, and I'm doing a coat of POR15 on the calipers. I also decided to clean up the metal brake dust shields. My question- did the dust seals come with a shield to spindle seal? I see evidence of a very thin, maybe rubber gasket between my shields and the spindle, but have seen no reference to a seal in any manual. Thoughts?

 

Yes.. it's really thin, pliable foamy ring.... like what electronic devices are wrapped in or sleeved in when new.

It gets sandwiched between the spindle and the dust shield. Super easy to make if you can find the material.

 

So I haven't found any trace of these devils online, is it really even needed? Sounds like a some thin art store foam or actually finding a box with electronics thin foam packing in it will work fine? Suggestions on thickness? Say 1/16 to 1/8 inch?

Also, let me get your thoughts on this: The passenger side wheel hub had 4 thin metal shins on top of the retaining washer. Should I keep these or chuck em?

 

It's a good idea to install 'em. I figure they must serve a purpose or else Ford wouldn't have put 'em in back in the day. It gets crushed ... I don't think it's a matter of thickness but rather density.. the more dense the better.

Hmm... dunno what shims yer referring to. Regardless, I've learned the hard way to not throw anything away until the job is done and road tested. Do they look factory or something outta Home Depot's hardware aisle?

Btw, congrats on undertaking the caliper rebuild. Most guys will just throw money at it for the sake of not having to do it. Money can't buy real experience.

 

Also passing along kudos on the rebuild.
Pay attention to which side is which when reinstalling your calipers.
There is a right and a left.
and they can fool you and work on the wrong side.
Ask me how I know.
Bleed screw flat is correct.
Bleed screw pointed up is wrong.

 

I used sill plate gasket material from Home Depot to make those for a couple of different trucks, it's like 6 or 7 bucks. The only down side is you have to get a roll of it. Check it out.

 

Just here to vent about **** that annoys me: crap made in China.
From my recent NAPA haul:
Caliper repair seals: 1 made in USA, 1 made in China
Inner and outer wheel bearings: Made in Japan
Oil Seal: Made in Japan
Brake Pads: Made in India

Lovely. I remember when made in Mexico seemed bad.

I finished replacing the seals on the caliper pistons (which were a PITA to get seated) ,when I noticed that one side looks a bit different than the other. Upon closer inspection, one seal set reads "Made in the USA" and the other was made in China. The American made seal feels much thicker and more durable the import crap. I didn't realize I had to start looking over every box I get, especially from NAPA. I try to buy from them specifically to get better quality parts. Is there any place to go nowadays and be sure you are getting top quality stuff?

Along that vein, I checked and the new brake lines I ordered are made in China also. I'm considering returning them and calling around for made in the USA varieties if possible. Am I going overboard? My current ones look OK, but I wanted to be safe and redo the whole system while I'm at it.

 

Ok, well everything is finally almost back together. Bearings packed, new rotors, calipers rebuilt, and new brake hoses.

Final questions: The inner brake pads from NAPA are a very tight fit, and I feel like they almost get stuck being pushed into place. How much should I file off the ends for a proper fit? I figure it should be a loose slip fit so the caliper can push them in easily? Also, the entire caliper is held in place by the metal key that gets hammered into place. Does the whole unit slide in the spindle to self center and engage the outer pad?

Thanks for all the help undertaking this rebuild!

 

I ran across the same made in who knows where when I got brake pads, seals etc from NAPA. One side made in USA other in either China,Mexico,Japan or Formosa. The slide will sort of self-center as it has to line up so the bolt will fit. Use caliper grease on moving parts. I like to put anti-seize on the bleeder.
That inner pad should slid freely. Sometimes paint on the pad is kind of thick.Again I like to use caliper grease or anti-seize on moving parts.