88 7.3 idi wierd electrical problems.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
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Check C135 in the diagram below.
I included the second diagram between them they should give locations for most things in the engine bay this is for a 1993 model if yours is older or has a turbo some things may be relocated
Mark
I included the second diagram between them they should give locations for most things in the engine bay this is for a 1993 model if yours is older or has a turbo some things may be relocated
Mark
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: California
The sender (not the switch, as you stated) is located at the back of the engine. It's easy to find in a van. Hard to locate in a truck. It looks like a cylinder like this
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Ok thanks alot! Exactly what im looking for, probly won't be able to get out and look at it till the weekend, supposed to be -25c for the next two days and supposed to warm up to a balmy - 8 this weekend, so will get to it saturday or sunday
Senior User
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The diagram shows a switch but the sender will be in the same place.
Mark
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
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If your oil gauge actually moved on your old cluster when you reved it up, you have the real sender on your engine, now the cluster you got from the jy, it could be setup to use the switch, what this means for you is that you have to short out the extra resistor on the new cluster to make your sender work.
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Where is this resistor? And this new cluster dosntt have any oil light symbols built into the plastic anywhere but ill look for an extra resistor on the cluster if someone can tell me where it is and what it looks like
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I know the truck the cluster came from was an 89 7.3 idi and mine is a 88 7.3 idi, does anyone know what years had a real sensor and what years had the idiot light? Or if these two trucks would have that much of a different cluster from each other?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
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These trucks don't have an idiot light, what Ford did was turn the gauge into an idiot gauge, with a real sender and gauge, the gauge will move when rev'ed up and show higher oil pressure when cold vs warm. With the idiot gauge, when the oil pressure goes over whatever the set psi the switch is at (around 7-10 psi) the switch grounds the wire and the gauge will move into the normal range and never move. Now they had to put the resistor in for the switch so that the gauge wouldn't peg to the max. If you don't remove the resistor (or in this case short it out) and you use the actual sending unit, it will read very low.
This is where the resistor is on the cluster, you will also see two copper points beside the SIG word that is were it would be shorted with solder, now if you don't want to solder it, you can just short out the resistor with some wire wrapped around its legs.
Hope this helps
This is where the resistor is on the cluster, you will also see two copper points beside the SIG word that is were it would be shorted with solder, now if you don't want to solder it, you can just short out the resistor with some wire wrapped around its legs.
Hope this helps
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My old cluster has a resister like that in it and the same copper gap on it, it just isn't placed exactly the same as that, still right beside the gauge tho.
I know I said my gauge moved before but that was when I had a bad voltage regulator so I think that was What was causing it to move. I havnt got to pulling my new cluster out yet because it's so damn cold outside.
I know I said my gauge moved before but that was when I had a bad voltage regulator so I think that was What was causing it to move. I havnt got to pulling my new cluster out yet because it's so damn cold outside.
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So it was my battery light resistor I was looking at on my old Custer and the new one has a resistor on the battery light and the oil pressure gauge, my question is if I short out the resistor for my battery light will this turn my battery light off? My old cluster had a resistor on route to the bulb and on the back of the actual bulb,
the new cluster doesn't have a resistor on the back ofthe light but does on the actual cluster, and the old light won't fit in the new cluster so I'm wondering if . Short out the resistor on the new cluster if it will make my light shut off
the new cluster doesn't have a resistor on the back ofthe light but does on the actual cluster, and the old light won't fit in the new cluster so I'm wondering if . Short out the resistor on the new cluster if it will make my light shut off
Fleet Mechanic
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Do NOT short out the resistor across the battery light, you will cook the voltage regulator for the alternator, if the battery light is bothering you that much and you don't want to or can't fix the issue with the light staying on, you could remove the bulb and the resistor will still turn on the voltage regulator. Your best coarse of action is to fix the fault that's causing the light to be on in the first place.