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C6 Conversion questions

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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:24 PM
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C6 Conversion questions

I'm pulling out the Cruisomatic this weekend and installing a C6. I have a few questions for those who have done this swap. The C6 I'm using is out of a 1970 F100 and has short cast tail housing.

Will speedo cable work on C6?

Will stock column detents work with C6?

Does anyone have a pic of linkage they used on tranny to hook stock shift rod to?

Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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your speedometer cable will work
the detent will be the same
I did this swap over 20 years ago , so my memory is a bit fuzzy, and I no longer have the truck.

You may need to change the gear to correct the speedometer accuracy.
the linkage from the donar truck will work , if you don't have it your existing linkage will work.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dsrtjeeper
I'm pulling out the Cruisomatic this weekend and installing a C6. I have a few questions for those who have done this swap. The C6 I'm using is out of a 1970 F100 and has short cast tail housing.

Will speedo cable work on C6? YES

Will stock column detents work with C6? YES

Does anyone have a pic of linkage they used on tranny to hook stock shift rod to? NO, BUT THE FACTORY LINKAGE HOOKED RIGHT UP (you are speaking of the gear select linkage, not the down shift rod, correct?

Thanks!
You will also need to likely shorten the drive shaft and relocate the tranny cross member. Mine has an output yoke for a u-joint, was not a slip yoke, yours may be different. I also have a 2 piece drive shaft, it's the front piece that I had to shorten. You will also need to figure out a tranny cooler. The original COM had the cooler mounted on the trans. I use a large aftermarket tranny cooler w/o issue. I don't remember if the COM used a vacuum signal or not, but the C6 does.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 04:08 PM
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Are you planning on selling off the COM and related parts? I could sure use the cooling lines that run to the tranny. I think the drivers side has a clip and bolt to hold the line on that side. My old 352 has the fittings on the sides of the block near the freeze plugs, but no lines came with it.

Let me know.

Thanks
Chad
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO
Are you planning on selling off the COM and related parts? I could sure use the cooling lines that run to the tranny. I think the drivers side has a clip and bolt to hold the line on that side. My old 352 has the fittings on the sides of the block near the freeze plugs, but no lines came with it.

Let me know.

Thanks
Chad
The original owner did away with that system and installed an aircraft oil cooler up near radiator. I in turn did away with that oil cooler and ran hard lines to the radiator. Sorry.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by PROSTOCK
You will also need to likely shorten the drive shaft and relocate the tranny cross member. Mine has an output yoke for a u-joint, was not a slip yoke, yours may be different. I also have a 2 piece drive shaft, it's the front piece that I had to shorten. You will also need to figure out a tranny cooler. The original COM had the cooler mounted on the trans. I use a large aftermarket tranny cooler w/o issue. I don't remember if the COM used a vacuum signal or not, but the C6 does.
I have the tranny yoke with 4 studs through a plate like what came on the COM.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dsrtjeeper
I have the tranny yoke with 4 studs through a plate like what came on the COM.
Same style, but there may still be a difference in u-joint sizes from one yoke to another. I ran into this but found adapter u-joints to solve this issue were easily available from NAPA. (1130 vs. 1330 or some such nonsense, it was a long time ago)

When I made the swap I just crossed my fingers and hoped the tranny would work. It did...for a while. I ended up pulling it and rebuilt myself. Not very hard to do if you're faced with the same issue. I also installed a shift kit while at it. Pretty much bullet proof after that. I also later added an adjustable vacuum modulator...allows you to further tweak the shift characteristics. You'll be happy you made this swap. Power disc brakes and power steering should be next on your list if they haven't been done already. Automatic, PS, PDB, R&H. What else do you need?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2014 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PROSTOCK
Same style, but there may still be a difference in u-joint sizes from one yoke to another. I ran into this but found adapter u-joints to solve this issue were easily available from NAPA. (1130 vs. 1330 or some such nonsense, it was a long time ago)

When I made the swap I just crossed my fingers and hoped the tranny would work. It did...for a while. I ended up pulling it and rebuilt myself. Not very hard to do if you're faced with the same issue. I also installed a shift kit while at it. Pretty much bullet proof after that. I also later added an adjustable vacuum modulator...allows you to further tweak the shift characteristics. You'll be happy you made this swap. Power disc brakes and power steering should be next on your list if they haven't been done already. Automatic, PS, PDB, R&H. What else do you need?
Thank you PROSTOCK as well as the others who replied. I just did the front disc conversion. I went with manual disc as my engine vacuum isn't the greatest with my cam. I'm looking at power steering but I don't like how twitchy the stock setup is. The Ford pump puts out too much pressure all at once. Looking to run a Ford box with GM pump. I need to relocate top shock mounts in rear after lowering the truck. The shocks lay to vertical to be effective. Sway bars are on the list as well. Money pits I tell ya!!!
 
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