Frame rust prevention
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,556
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From: Crapy southern New Jersey
Frame rust prevention
Hello guys. I did a search here and on the paint and body forum. I'm looking to start to think about what I should be needing to start painting my frame for rust provention. It starting to rust now but just surface rust. I know I'll never seal it 100% with out stripping it 100%. I figured I start with a good cleaning and wire wheeling. Then I was thinking of get por-15 to use as a coating.
What have u guys used in the past? I live where the township use brine when ever the word snow comes up.
Is there anything I should pre treat the really rust areas with first?
Brush or spray it on? I plan to remove the bed and do as much as I can on everything under there. In the end it a work truck. I'd just like to see another 10+ years out of it.
Thanks Doug.
What have u guys used in the past? I live where the township use brine when ever the word snow comes up.
Is there anything I should pre treat the really rust areas with first?
Brush or spray it on? I plan to remove the bed and do as much as I can on everything under there. In the end it a work truck. I'd just like to see another 10+ years out of it.
Thanks Doug.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 11,132
Likes: 3
From: Southern West Virginia
Mix up some used auto trans fluid and diesel fuel 50/50 and put it in a garden sprayer. Coat everything under the truck with it before winter and it will do wonders for prolonging rust. It's not as messy as it sounds either. Any rust that is there, it will just soak into it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
The only thing I would add about the oil spray (or ATF and diesel or whatever) is that if you're going to go that route and you want to paint the undercarriage you need to do the paint first. Once you've done an oil spray you'll never get paint to stick without some MAJOR work to get it all cleaned up. My intent is to do some POR 15 or something similar with a black topcoat and then oil spray once a year (every fall) after that. I just gotta get the paint done first.
Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 318
Likes: 7
Loctite 754 extend rust treatment is a great product. You can get it through Fastenal or Grainger. It is pricy but a quart goes a long way. I wire brushed my Deere 318 mower deck and coated the underside of it with the stuff. Two years later with very little care to remove wet grass and what not and it still looks as it did when I coated it. It reacts with the rust to kill and stop more from forming so you only need to wire brush to scrap loose off and clean a little then coat away. It can also be painted over.
I am going to wire brush everything under my truck and coat what I can with the stuff this summer in hopes to prolong the life of my truck!
I am going to wire brush everything under my truck and coat what I can with the stuff this summer in hopes to prolong the life of my truck!
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Crapy southern New Jersey
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Tuned
Joined: Nov 2013
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It has a cream color to it when it goes on but dries a translucent black color. More clear than black.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Here is my suggestion. Take it or leave it.
Do NOT wire wheel. All that does is move drirt, grease and contaminants around. It also POLISHES the metal and leaves no bite for paint to adhear.
SANDBLAST.
Take off EVERYTHING you can(you can strip a chassis in lest than a day).
Sandblast the frame and all the "pieces" you took off.
Then POR15 or equivalent Rust paint.
Then Topcoat with a tractor paint(very resilient to chipping)
Then reassemble. You will have DECADES worth of rust free operation with periodic cleanings
Use some Fluid Film once a year(before snow season) in the hard to reach spots(bed cross members, inner wheel wells cab mounts, rad support)
I'll use this truck as an example. The cab, engine, trans and axle were left in/on. The fuel tanks, fuel lines, wiring harness was all removed.(fuel tank was left in for moving purposes until sandblast day)
EVERYTHING sandblasted
POR15
so far 2 years later.
O and did I mention. I am NOT a sloppy mess of ATF/diesel fuel when ever I have to work on the truck(PRICELESS)
Do NOT wire wheel. All that does is move drirt, grease and contaminants around. It also POLISHES the metal and leaves no bite for paint to adhear.
SANDBLAST.
Take off EVERYTHING you can(you can strip a chassis in lest than a day).
Sandblast the frame and all the "pieces" you took off.
Then POR15 or equivalent Rust paint.
Then Topcoat with a tractor paint(very resilient to chipping)
Then reassemble. You will have DECADES worth of rust free operation with periodic cleanings
Use some Fluid Film once a year(before snow season) in the hard to reach spots(bed cross members, inner wheel wells cab mounts, rad support)
I'll use this truck as an example. The cab, engine, trans and axle were left in/on. The fuel tanks, fuel lines, wiring harness was all removed.(fuel tank was left in for moving purposes until sandblast day)
EVERYTHING sandblasted
POR15
so far 2 years later.
O and did I mention. I am NOT a sloppy mess of ATF/diesel fuel when ever I have to work on the truck(PRICELESS)
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Brad did you spray that POR on or did you brush it? It looks to me like you sprayed it on and I'm curious what you used to thin it. IIRC you said you also top-coat with tractor paint before the POR dries (still tacky) is that correct?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Spray. Brushing takes WAY too long
I only thinned VERY little. maybe 5% I use POR thinner
And yes, topcoat with tractor paint while POR is still tacky(I just clean gun from POR then put in tractor paint and add 2 more coats.
O…
Sand 9 bags $94.23
5 quarts POR15 $200
1 gallon of Tractor lo glare black $60
so a 4 day weekend
and $355
WELL WORTH WHILE INVESTMENT
If you don't have a sandblaster at your disposal, have someone do it.
Average cost would be 4-600
I only thinned VERY little. maybe 5% I use POR thinner
And yes, topcoat with tractor paint while POR is still tacky(I just clean gun from POR then put in tractor paint and add 2 more coats.
O…
Sand 9 bags $94.23
5 quarts POR15 $200
1 gallon of Tractor lo glare black $60
so a 4 day weekend
and $355
WELL WORTH WHILE INVESTMENT
If you don't have a sandblaster at your disposal, have someone do it.
Average cost would be 4-600
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Honestly for the $4-600 I'd rather spend the money on the sandblaster and have it for the next project. Even if it wasn't a huge unit and it takes me longer, I would really like to have one for projects like this. We had one at the farm where I worked growing up and I saw the benefits of having one. I just don't have one of my own (or a big enough compressor to run a really big one) yet.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
LOL. my sandblaster costed a HELL of a lot more than 4-600. Mine was $6000 and the compressor was close to 10,000
One of those little Eastwood blasters are $600 and I have one of those I want to get rid of. PM me if interested
One of those little Eastwood blasters are $600 and I have one of those I want to get rid of. PM me if interested
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
I would never use one that big enough to make it worth the expense for what I'm doing, but a smaller 50-100 lb unit would be nice. Those are pretty widely available used here locally for a couple hundred bucks. That's enough for what I would use it for right now. I'd love to have the big boy toys, but I have neither the room or the use to justify them at this point. Bigger stuff I could easily farm out as there is a sandblasting outfit not far from me that is pretty reasonable. For some things though I'd just like to be able to do it myself, on-site, and how I want it done. That's tough with someone who is just trying to get it done so they can get paid and move onto the next project.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
I had the 100lb pot and 35cfm compressor.
Too many projects and not enough time. Had to upgrade
I bought my current sandblaster/compressor used for $1200. Guy was no longer using it and wanted it gone
Too many projects and not enough time. Had to upgrade
I bought my current sandblaster/compressor used for $1200. Guy was no longer using it and wanted it gone