My '86 F150 manual locking hub (factory), drivers side won't engage by turning to "locked" position. I took it apart and found among other things it was pretty dry, but more importantly the splined ring that should push back into the hub, locking the shaft, wouldn't go in easily. The reason for this is because the axle is not centered and it pinches the ring and won't let it push in. If I put a screwdriver in the end Of the axle shaft and apply a little pressure to the side it will center up and the ring will push right back in.

Why would this not be centered? Does the bearing center it? I did not disassemble all of the way to bearing, but it doesn't act like there are any bearing issues. Any ideas on what's going on? Pretty frustrating not having hubs locked without taking apart and pushing the ring in.

 

Never thought about that part of it to tell you the truth. There is a needle bearing in the knuckle right when the axle goes into the knuckle on the back side(next to the u-joint in the axle) but that could not support the stub way out there near the lockout. I wonder if the lockout itself supports the very end of the shaft when it's installed.

 

The lockout supports the end of the shaft. There is a bushing in the lockout for this purpose. With a unworn shaft and fresh inner bearing the stub shaft will have some slop at the outermost part until the lockout is installed.

I would check the inner bearing, if they are not kept greased and water gets in they rust and quickly turn to dust.

 

From this picture, I believe the hub itself does support the axle and keep it centered. Been a long time since I have torn one apart.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check that bearing. The hub cap seems to go on easy, but it's probably worn. I looked at the passenger side and it all looks picture perfect. I might try wiggling the shaft from behind the knuckle once the hub is installed to see if it will seat in the cap properly and center up.. I may just upgrade my manual hubs. What's weirded is their even with the hub disassembled on the good (passenger) side the shaft is perfectly centered. I posted here to make sure that something wasn't horribly wrong and I was overlooking it. Just got this truck a few weeks ago.

 

I haven't experienced that problem, but I do believe the bearing centers it. So if the bearing isn't properly adjusted the axle would be angled through the hub and, with enough angle, the lockout won't engage.

Here's what it looks like inside.

Edit: Too late. That's what you get when your wife, who's ill, says "Would you go get pizza?" Had forgotten to hit "Submit".

 

Any replacement hub recommendations??

 

I should add that I've never seen a stub shaft sag enough at the outermost part to require lifting it to get the lockout on. This is why I suggest checking the inner bearing as it's most likely turned to dust.

 

I like Mile Markers. I have the factory ones with the plastic **** and a set of MM's with metal *****. Big difference.

 

I second the milemarkers. They also take less of a hit on your wallet

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard has them.

 

The original poster may be a little bit confused as I am(probably not). But are you guys saying he should check the needle bearing way in the back I was talking about, a bearing in the lockout itself, or what? Not either one of the wheel bearings correct?

 

I was saying the wheel bearings, plural, should be checked. There's an adjustment on them and it would seem to me that being loose, or maybe even badly worn, would allow the stub to droop.

 

Yes, there is a big difference with MileMarker, they don't last. The weak point in the two sets that have failed on me is the bushing the stub shaft rides in. Even if cleaned and greased regularly it fails, disintegrates and then your lockouts rattle all the time and become more difficult to engage. Very, very annoying. When it moves like this it can wear the hub splines as well as stub shaft splines. It will also allow water into the lockout and thus into your wheel bearings. Let it going long enough and it'll probably throw the lockout out of the hub.

Never had this problem with Warn or factory Ford lockouts (Ford are essentially just the cheaper Warn ones). So in trying to save money over just buying the expensive D60 Warn hubs I tried MM and got burned twice. Never again. I've been running original Ford hubs that have been used and abused for decades on my truck now and no issues. If I break them or they wear out I've got a couple sets of spares or will spring for known quality and longevity from Warn.

 

Interesting. Is the bushing you are taking about in the drawing above? If so, which part?

 

What about the bearing can you adjust? I was under the impression a bearing would seat from and inner or outer race with an axial (shim) adjustment, but not a radial adjustment (that would center a shaft). Can you explain? Thanks again for everyone's input.