Axle seals
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Axle seals
So my '94 F150 has had it's final break down this week, now it's parked till I fix it. Slave cylinder went out, and it's an internal slave, so tranny needs to come out for it, and I ain't doing that in winter!
So out comes my '91 F350 4x4 7.3
All it needs is front brakes, and axle seals in the back, and tranny pan gasket.
Anyone have any tips or tricks for doing the rear axle seals on these? They are press in if I remember correctly, any tricks some of you know to get 'em out without damaging anything?
So out comes my '91 F350 4x4 7.3
All it needs is front brakes, and axle seals in the back, and tranny pan gasket.
Anyone have any tips or tricks for doing the rear axle seals on these? They are press in if I remember correctly, any tricks some of you know to get 'em out without damaging anything?
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 717
Likes: 1
From: Independence, Mo
As far as pulling them out use a seal puller or flat head and work it around for the install of the new ones grab a piece of wood and any hammer and tap in the seal they don't fit tight enough to have to actually use a press at least mine didn't and I have the sterling 10.25 with 3.55's
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
I think I ended up driving the seal out from the other side with a long drift when I did one side of my truck. It was a pain in the ***! Getting the new one in was easy, piece of wood and hammer like ihf-350 said.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 258
I found with mine that they were a bit of a joy to get out but a punch and hammer makes fairly easy work of it.
What I found that was more of a pain in the a$$ was the cleaning of diff oil off all the brake parts and replacing the wheel cylinders as the rubber parts where 3x the size they should of been (was not expecting that) and then finding the frozen e-brake cable and rusted together adjusters (all I bought originally was the seals and brake shoes) and the diff fluid was milk
and the part that sucked most is that the seals may have been good still, the damn diff breather was full solid of rust making the seals leak and suck in moister
When you buy the new seals make sure there the scott seals (seal in a seal design) and the ones I got had rubber on the outside so they only took body weight to push in (SKF 34384 and for you die hard USA fans, they are made in USA
)
What I found that was more of a pain in the a$$ was the cleaning of diff oil off all the brake parts and replacing the wheel cylinders as the rubber parts where 3x the size they should of been (was not expecting that) and then finding the frozen e-brake cable and rusted together adjusters (all I bought originally was the seals and brake shoes) and the diff fluid was milk
and the part that sucked most is that the seals may have been good still, the damn diff breather was full solid of rust making the seals leak and suck in moister
When you buy the new seals make sure there the scott seals (seal in a seal design) and the ones I got had rubber on the outside so they only took body weight to push in (SKF 34384 and for you die hard USA fans, they are made in USA
) 
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 170
Likes: 4
My axle breather was rusted too. Be sure to take a look at it while you have everything apart.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah that's the first thing I blow air through after doing the seals to make sure it doesn't happen again.
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