So THAT'S why I'm only getting 10 mpg....

 

A word about winter blends (9.0 RVP or Reid Vapor Pressure) vs. summer blends (7.8 RVP ). In the colder temps of winter, gasolines are blended for increased vaporization and atomization for easier starting and operation, while in the heat of summer, blended for less vaporization to reduce vapor lock. Obviously both aimed primarily at carbureted engines. I suspect the reduced vaporization combined with your severe cold climate produces your lousy MPG. Jim

 

Funny... the farmer's are making good profits from corn for ethanol but they sure do hate having to put it in their machinery!

 

Jim, I think you meant to say that the gas is blended primarily at automobile engines. I think gas refiners stopped caring much about carburetors about 10 years ago.
You are 100% correct in that running premium grades in an engine that is built to use low octane fuel is a waste of money, is of no advantage, and will actually produce less power. Around here all premium also contains ethanol, and if the Feds have their way will be increased to 15% sooner than later. 15% is all you can buy in certain metro areas now, the only reason it isn't all over is because auto manufacturers have circled the wagons and said in no uncertain terms to the feds that they will not warantee vehicles using 15% gasahol.

 

That's exactly why we are forced to use gasahol. The agribiz conglomerates spend a LOT of money lobbying congress.

 

So far 10 of the auto manufacturers have stated that using 15% alcohol (E15) will void the warranty. Ethanol has been used for years in small amounts to boost the octane rating. The E15 has been reported to stratify in the tank....so the ethanol burns off first leaving behind gasoline with too low of an octane rating. The low octane result can damage an engine. The EPA didn't do their homework.

Dan

 

We have been away for a couple of weeks helping with the birth of a grandchild so I not been on the forum. This has been a very educational thread from my standpoint. Thanks to all who have posted. One of my magazines on vintage vehicles said that there is support from the antique/classic car groups and other groups mentioned to help with trying to get the Feds to slow down the new implementation that seems to be getting more ears to listen. However, that does not stop the Feds from doing what they want many times. Seems like with food shortages around the world we could have better ag uses for the corn.

The corn gas has helped destroy many of my lawn and tree tools with the plastic parts. Stabilizer helps, but it is still hard on them. Can't tell what it is doing to the vehicle engines as far as parts yet. What parts on my vehicle engines should I look at replacing and how often due to ethanol?

 

Any rubber parts....you should keep an ey on for cracks and leaks. Sometimes the neoprene tip on the float valve will break down. I think that most carb rebuild.kit have parts that will work with ethanol, but watch for symptoms of a leaking float valve...overly rich running when it wasn't doing that before.

You can also look for ethanol free gas. Stations are listed at www.pure-gas.org

Dan

 

You need to keep an eye on any rubber parts in the fuel system. Problem is that parts like rubber fuel hose is they break down from the inside. Put in a clear plastic fuel filter as close to the carb as you can and check it for bits of black residue in it. Check fuel lines by giving them a squeeze if the feel soft or brittle, replace them, or replace them yearly as preventive maintenance. Same goes for mechanical fuel pump diaphragms, pressure regulators, any and all rubber parts like diaphragms, pumps and plastic floats in the carb, Doesn't matter what type plastic or rubber that you use, they are all deteriorated by gasahol. Replace rubber fuel hose with teflon lined SS braid hoses that are specifically stated to be safe for use with all fuel blends, expensive but so is a fuel leak. There aren't enough carbs left to push the development of alternative parts.

 

I've been using mid-grade (I think it's 89) ethanol free. I get between 2 and 3 mpg more than with the 87 ethanol stuff.

 

I put in a fuel filter and will check it for black. I'm also concerned about plaque in the old gas tank and hope that might show up with the filter as well before getting in the carb jets.

I read a note (if you get the magazine) in Hemmings Motor News Feb issue today in Jim Howe's how to section on a home shop method on how to check for ethanol in gas. Interesting. Anyone every tried the glass, water, fuel method he talks about?

 

No... tell me more.

 

I didn't see the Hemmings article but you can test by adding water to the gas. Add some water to a plastic water bottle and mark the level of water on the side. Then add the gas and shake. If the gas contains ethanol the water level will be less since some of the water will be absorbed into the gas. In addition, if the mixture turns cloudy, there is ethanol present. Pure gas plus plus water will stay clear.

 

The test noted in Hemmings (p90) was very similar to the last post.

Take a clear container and fill it to about 1/10th of the container and mark the level. Fill the container with gas, cover, and shake. Allow a couple of minutes for the contents to settle and check the water level with the mark. If the water level has risen there is ethanol in the gas where the water has drawn the ethanol in. Author Jim Howe said he has checked it at pumps and gas sold as ethanol free did contain ethanol.

I guess there is no easy way to measure the amount of ethanol in the gas, but just the presence.

 

If the pump says this fuel may contain ethanol, it's a very safe bet it actually does. The FEDs are using their (threatening withholding highway funds) pressure to force states and major metropolitan areas to ban ethanol free fuels.