Engine bucking/missing inconsistently. Got codes
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
Ok I changed that canister purge solenoid and it seems to be doing MUCH better. I haven't driven it yet because I put some quiksteel over an exhaust leak and am going to let it sit a couple days to cure. From giving it gas however it seemed to have started better and when I goose the throttle it doesn't make that sputter sound so much.
Didn't have a chance to check codes again. That polar vortex is blowing right now in NC and am minimizing exposure since Ill be out in it all day tomorrow!!
(stupid global warming)
One thing I did have and forgot...please tell me if this is a big deal. There is a "nipple" coming off of the passenger side-rear of the upper intake. It was plugged when I bought the truck. Now I have seen pictures of others like it and they had a hose going from there to the PCV valve. Would this help it run better having it unplugged going to PCV valve or not much difference? I hadn't done it yet because I didn't want to undo something that should be done!
The truck almost acted as though it were being choked when you gave it gas but would idle fine
Thank you very much gents
Didn't have a chance to check codes again. That polar vortex is blowing right now in NC and am minimizing exposure since Ill be out in it all day tomorrow!!
(stupid global warming)One thing I did have and forgot...please tell me if this is a big deal. There is a "nipple" coming off of the passenger side-rear of the upper intake. It was plugged when I bought the truck. Now I have seen pictures of others like it and they had a hose going from there to the PCV valve. Would this help it run better having it unplugged going to PCV valve or not much difference? I hadn't done it yet because I didn't want to undo something that should be done!
The truck almost acted as though it were being choked when you gave it gas but would idle fine
Thank you very much gents
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Ok I changed that canister purge solenoid and it seems to be doing MUCH better. I haven't driven it yet because I put some quiksteel over an exhaust leak and am going to let it sit a couple days to cure. From giving it gas however it seemed to have started better and when I goose the throttle it doesn't make that sputter sound so much.
Didn't have a chance to check codes again. That polar vortex is blowing right now in NC and am minimizing exposure since Ill be out in it all day tomorrow!! (stupid global warming)
One thing I did have and forgot...please tell me if this is a big deal. There is a "nipple" coming off of the passenger side-rear of the upper intake. It was plugged when I bought the truck. Now I have seen pictures of others like it and they had a hose going from there to the PCV valve. Would this help it run better having it unplugged going to PCV valve or not much difference? I hadn't done it yet because I didn't want to undo something that should be done!
The truck almost acted as though it were being choked when you gave it gas but would idle fine
Thank you very much gents
Didn't have a chance to check codes again. That polar vortex is blowing right now in NC and am minimizing exposure since Ill be out in it all day tomorrow!!
(stupid global warming)One thing I did have and forgot...please tell me if this is a big deal. There is a "nipple" coming off of the passenger side-rear of the upper intake. It was plugged when I bought the truck. Now I have seen pictures of others like it and they had a hose going from there to the PCV valve. Would this help it run better having it unplugged going to PCV valve or not much difference? I hadn't done it yet because I didn't want to undo something that should be done!
The truck almost acted as though it were being choked when you gave it gas but would idle fine
Thank you very much gents
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
I took a video of it with my phone so you can HEAR what it is doing.
Let's see if I can get it posted
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...94665685409925
Ok, this link is to the video. it is my Facebook page so please don't stock me
(copy and paste)
The more subtle of the two "taping" or "knocking" noises is a small exhaust leak, feels like it is coming out of that tube that runs between the heads. Anyways....that louder knocking or tapping is the noise it makes when I goose it in Neutral/Park or accelerate while driving.
Almost acts like it is choking....I am still trying to research the issue.
I checked the codes again but did it wrong again, didn't have time to do it again tonight. WIll have to wait until tomorrow to do it again (may pick up an OBDI like was suggested.
Thanks guys
Ok, this link is to the video. it is my Facebook page so please don't stock me
(copy and paste)
The more subtle of the two "taping" or "knocking" noises is a small exhaust leak, feels like it is coming out of that tube that runs between the heads. Anyways....that louder knocking or tapping is the noise it makes when I goose it in Neutral/Park or accelerate while driving.
Almost acts like it is choking....I am still trying to research the issue.
I checked the codes again but did it wrong again, didn't have time to do it again tonight. WIll have to wait until tomorrow to do it again (may pick up an OBDI like was suggested.
Thanks guys
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
I can't help you much on the noise- my hearing is terrible, even with headphones, apparently. 
Code 116- It's likely a bad coolant temp sensor. You can test it if you want: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Code 636: No clue.
Code 172: If you're certain the air injection tube is leaking, that's likely one cause of this code. Without a functional thermactor system you will continually get codes that indicate lean or rich conditions. Many people have deleted their thermactor systems but I have no idea whether they just ignore the codes or if they have a way around them. Personally, I still have mine b/c I enjoy fuel efficiency, for what it's worth from my 5.8 anyway.
Code 116- It's likely a bad coolant temp sensor. You can test it if you want: Fuel Injection Technical Library » Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Code 636: No clue.
Code 172: If you're certain the air injection tube is leaking, that's likely one cause of this code. Without a functional thermactor system you will continually get codes that indicate lean or rich conditions. Many people have deleted their thermactor systems but I have no idea whether they just ignore the codes or if they have a way around them. Personally, I still have mine b/c I enjoy fuel efficiency, for what it's worth from my 5.8 anyway.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
636....trans temp....transmission was ice cold. Got that in both KOEO and KOER
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
636....trans temp....transmission was ice cold. Got that in both KOEO and KOER
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
A cheap meter can go for around $10.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
which 2? O2 sensor and IAT? I will take my meter and check the voltage on those sensors and see what I can get.
Is it a possibility that one of those sensors messing up can cause the codes on the others?
Thank you very much for the quick reply and continued help on this
Is it a possibility that one of those sensors messing up can cause the codes on the others?
Thank you very much for the quick reply and continued help on this
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,538
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
Check the VREF at every sensor. TPS, EVP, O2, IAT....anything listed on that technical website I linked you to. You want to be looking for the same number at each sensor.
No, it's probably not that one sensor is causing a problem with the others. The VREF circuit is wired in parallel to all the sensors. The point is to give the computer a point of reference (hence, the Voltage REFerence circuit) to "see" the movement and change in each sensor. So, the EVP for example- the computer sees 5.0 volts going in, and then when the EGR valve opens, it sees 1.4 volts coming back out. This tells the computer how far open the EGR valve is. I'm probably not right with the numbers, but you get the idea.
By checking the VREF at every sensor, you're making sure that you don't have a short to ground or corrosion problem in the circuit that's causing a false code.
No, it's probably not that one sensor is causing a problem with the others. The VREF circuit is wired in parallel to all the sensors. The point is to give the computer a point of reference (hence, the Voltage REFerence circuit) to "see" the movement and change in each sensor. So, the EVP for example- the computer sees 5.0 volts going in, and then when the EGR valve opens, it sees 1.4 volts coming back out. This tells the computer how far open the EGR valve is. I'm probably not right with the numbers, but you get the idea.
By checking the VREF at every sensor, you're making sure that you don't have a short to ground or corrosion problem in the circuit that's causing a false code.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
636....trans temp....transmission was ice cold. Got that in both KOEO and KOER
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
KOEO 114 IAT sensor out of range.
KOER 116 ECT sensor out of range.
172 O2 sensor not switching. is or was too lean.
So, not sure what the IAT plays into this but could the ECT be faulty, making a lean condition? Plus Ive got that exhaust leak..could that play into it?
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
Check the VREF at every sensor. TPS, EVP, O2, IAT....anything listed on that technical website I linked you to. You want to be looking for the same number at each sensor.
No, it's probably not that one sensor is causing a problem with the others. The VREF circuit is wired in parallel to all the sensors. The point is to give the computer a point of reference (hence, the Voltage REFerence circuit) to "see" the movement and change in each sensor. So, the EVP for example- the computer sees 5.0 volts going in, and then when the EGR valve opens, it sees 1.4 volts coming back out. This tells the computer how far open the EGR valve is. I'm probably not right with the numbers, but you get the idea.
By checking the VREF at every sensor, you're making sure that you don't have a short to ground or corrosion problem in the circuit that's causing a false code.
No, it's probably not that one sensor is causing a problem with the others. The VREF circuit is wired in parallel to all the sensors. The point is to give the computer a point of reference (hence, the Voltage REFerence circuit) to "see" the movement and change in each sensor. So, the EVP for example- the computer sees 5.0 volts going in, and then when the EGR valve opens, it sees 1.4 volts coming back out. This tells the computer how far open the EGR valve is. I'm probably not right with the numbers, but you get the idea.
By checking the VREF at every sensor, you're making sure that you don't have a short to ground or corrosion problem in the circuit that's causing a false code.
Ok, took me a LONG time but I ended up having to replace the O2 sensor and the ECT sensor. It is STILL making that "rappy" noise when I goose the throttle but especially when in gear, under load.
So, I am thinking I have a vac leak...but, I have gone through I don't know how many cans of carb n choke cleaner trying to find a leak.
I am about to take it to a shop but I just hate to do that.
I sincerely appreciate your helping me on this.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
We still had the tail end of that arctic vortex (caused by global warming) so it was still very cool out so that makes sense
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Broadway, NC
Ok, so my TAB and TAD are causing this code probably? It is hard for me to believe that vac lines that small could be causing such a violent backfire/popping. But, what do I know?
Edit: Went out quick and checked for vacuum at both TAB and TAD and I can barely feel it but hear it. Not sure where to go from here
Edit: Went out quick and checked for vacuum at both TAB and TAD and I can barely feel it but hear it. Not sure where to go from here