My dually conversion, with some porn..
#18
I didn't know they made different offset wheels for a dually. I will check my and if they are 5.00 I will start looking for some 4x4 wheels. I don't like running the spacer. I could probably get away with out them until I put a load on it, they don't touch it just close.
#19
I didn't know they made different offset wheels for a dually. I will check my and if they are 5.00 I will start looking for some 4x4 wheels. I don't like running the spacer. I could probably get away with out them until I put a load on it, they don't touch it just close.
You can look at GM and dodge wheels too.
I am running dodge offset (alcoa) Aluminum wheels on the Inside rears. I just had to have the center machined out to fit over the hub. I forget what offset they were but it was pretty good
This is 2 dodge wheels back to back with a 2" spacer and 315s(just because I got impatient and wanted to see what dual 315s looked like)
#20
Van is different again. they are 5.15. Dam ford and changing things
You can look at GM and dodge wheels too.
I am running dodge offset (alcoa) Aluminum wheels on the Inside rears. I just had to have the center machined out to fit over the hub. I forget what offset they were but it was pretty good
This is 2 dodge wheels back to back with a 2" spacer and 315s(just because I got impatient and wanted to see what dual 315s looked like)
You can look at GM and dodge wheels too.
I am running dodge offset (alcoa) Aluminum wheels on the Inside rears. I just had to have the center machined out to fit over the hub. I forget what offset they were but it was pretty good
This is 2 dodge wheels back to back with a 2" spacer and 315s(just because I got impatient and wanted to see what dual 315s looked like)
#21
Thanks guys. Those 315's do look real nice.
Kevin, I'm running some factory steel wheels for now so I need to use the 2 inch spacers to make them work. We've got different backspacing wheels for sure, cause I know I'd not have enough clearance with a 1/4 inch spacer. Well, they may clear, but would be soo close I couldn't put a trailer on for sure. With the 2 inchers I should have around 1 1/2 inches between the tires, just like the skinny stock tires are now I got with the wheels. That number may be a little bigger. The 265's are 2 inches wider on my factory aluminum wheels, but I think the steels are an inch narrower so the sidewalls will probably suck in a little making them a hair narrower. I've got simulators to use on the wheels, someday I'd like to get some nicer wheels but these will work ok for now. I bought the wheels, simulators, and lug nuts for 200 bucks so that was a good way to save some cash for now.
Phil, I bought a dually bed this fall. It is already red, however, not the right color red so I'll get it painted. That won't get done until summer sometime when I build up some more cash flow. I switched axles with someone to get 4.10's a little over a year ago, that is what's staying in here.
Kevin, I'm running some factory steel wheels for now so I need to use the 2 inch spacers to make them work. We've got different backspacing wheels for sure, cause I know I'd not have enough clearance with a 1/4 inch spacer. Well, they may clear, but would be soo close I couldn't put a trailer on for sure. With the 2 inchers I should have around 1 1/2 inches between the tires, just like the skinny stock tires are now I got with the wheels. That number may be a little bigger. The 265's are 2 inches wider on my factory aluminum wheels, but I think the steels are an inch narrower so the sidewalls will probably suck in a little making them a hair narrower. I've got simulators to use on the wheels, someday I'd like to get some nicer wheels but these will work ok for now. I bought the wheels, simulators, and lug nuts for 200 bucks so that was a good way to save some cash for now.
Phil, I bought a dually bed this fall. It is already red, however, not the right color red so I'll get it painted. That won't get done until summer sometime when I build up some more cash flow. I switched axles with someone to get 4.10's a little over a year ago, that is what's staying in here.
#22
So I have a 95 F250 I been considering turning into a DRW. I bought a 92 DRW axle from an F350 with 3.55 gears in it. My problem is the spring perch on the axle is shorter than my springs. Do I really have to adjust my spring hangers on my truck or should I be looking for a different axle?
#24
My 97 CCSB build - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
#25
So I have a 95 F250 I been considering turning into a DRW. I bought a 92 DRW axle from an F350 with 3.55 gears in it. My problem is the spring perch on the axle is shorter than my springs. Do I really have to adjust my spring hangers on my truck or should I be looking for a different axle?
#26
Thanks Nate!
Beemac, what Tom said above is what you need to know.
I started the downpipe this afternoon. I had to do a pretty good amount of firewall/floor removal here to get that 4 inch sucker in. That was pretty much a pita. I'm at the point I don't need to cut anymore, and have the flange and elbow right off the turbo made. I cut the flange end off just a few inches after the bend on the dp. Then cut a "V" in the inside of the bend and made it a sharper bend, as it wasn't sharp enough to get down where I needed it to. Tomorrow should be easier, I just need to finish piecing the dp together and hang the exhaust. I have to pick up some metal the end of the week to fix the hole in the floor, I'm out, so that won't get done yet.
I'll put some pics of the DP and hole tomorrow.
Beemac, what Tom said above is what you need to know.
I started the downpipe this afternoon. I had to do a pretty good amount of firewall/floor removal here to get that 4 inch sucker in. That was pretty much a pita. I'm at the point I don't need to cut anymore, and have the flange and elbow right off the turbo made. I cut the flange end off just a few inches after the bend on the dp. Then cut a "V" in the inside of the bend and made it a sharper bend, as it wasn't sharp enough to get down where I needed it to. Tomorrow should be easier, I just need to finish piecing the dp together and hang the exhaust. I have to pick up some metal the end of the week to fix the hole in the floor, I'm out, so that won't get done yet.
I'll put some pics of the DP and hole tomorrow.
#28
Thanks Glenn! I want to have this done in a 2-3 weeks if I can, so I'm gonna stay after it fairly good. Lots of other stuff to do this winter.
Talked with Bill last night and he just used a cut up piece of body panel off a parts truck for his floor piece. We have plenty of parts cars/trucks in behind the shop so I should be able to get something there to use.
I still need to get some 1/2 inch metal. I'm getting rid of the hide-a-ball that was in my pickup and putting a solid one in. I'll use the bracket that is there for the hide-a-ball and modify it for the solid mount.
Talked with Bill last night and he just used a cut up piece of body panel off a parts truck for his floor piece. We have plenty of parts cars/trucks in behind the shop so I should be able to get something there to use.
I still need to get some 1/2 inch metal. I'm getting rid of the hide-a-ball that was in my pickup and putting a solid one in. I'll use the bracket that is there for the hide-a-ball and modify it for the solid mount.
#30
Darin, what kind of hide a ball do you have? I have a B&W turn over in the 97 that I really like. I put one in the 96 crewcab also. The 96 C&C has a fold down type that someone put in wrong, it folds from front to back instead of side to side. You get slack in the ball that way. I'm going to have to cut it out and either put a solid one in with a door to cover it, or put the fold down in under the the door as it sets way to high now.