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I am a neophyte when it comes to this stuff. I have a 2008 F350 FX4 with locking (manual) front hubs. I've driven in 4X4 once or twice but never have them locked. I'm gathering that I should do that from time to time. Please forgive the stupidity of this question, but how will I know when driving if I have created a problem with the hubs?
What's the difference between auto and lock? They still lock if set to auto correct? What's the reason to ever use manual lock, just if the vacuum controlled auto lock fails?
What's the difference between auto and lock? They still lock if set to auto correct? What's the reason to ever use manual lock, just if the vacuum controlled auto lock fails?
Thats about the only time in the last 14 years that I've used the manual lock. The vacuum pump on my 2006 went out and I need 4x4. The auto would not engage, So I jumped out and turned the hubs in manually and had the 4x4 that I needed.
A few days later, bought a new vacuum pump and two or three screws later I was back in business to use the Auto.
Pryan, I don't think it matters too much which way you engage your hubs. As long as your periodically exercise them by engaging the 4x4 and using it. What difference is it, whether you manually or with Vacuum assist move the gear over to engage. Moving the gear is what is important to keeping the grease moving, not how it's moved.
Cool. Thanks for the info. I use my 4x4 regularly in the winter. I run it a bit in the summer to keep it lubed and working as well. Might turn those manually now and then if I remember but as long as the auto is working they should be fine.
While it may be true that the automatic system will exercise the true working parts of the hub, it is still possible for the manual dial to seize up. This isn't as much of a concern as it was on the pre-2005 trucks, but our hubs are at risk depending on the conditions that we drive our trucks in. You don't really need to drive it that way, just twist the dial on both hubs at every oil change. It may surprise you when you turn one and it feels real gritty!
While it may be true that the automatic system will exercise the true working parts of the hub, it is still possible for the manual dial to seize up. This isn't as much of a concern as it was on the pre-2005 trucks, but our hubs are at risk depending on the conditions that we drive our trucks in. You don't really need to drive it that way, just twist the dial on both hubs at every oil change. It may surprise you when you turn one and it feels real gritty!
yup, it's the dials that seize when not exercised.
What changed post 2005? Different axel or different hubs?
I admittedly haven't completely researched exactly how the hubs work on the Super Dutys - whether they fail locked or unlocked - but on the F-150's, they failed unlocked. With no vacuum, you had no front hub engagement and no way to override. I assumed that these hubs worked the same with regards to vacuum availability, but we have an override in the form of a manual lock in case of failure.
On my 2013 F 150 vacuum unlocks the front hubs so if you lost vacuum you would still have FWD but would have no way of unlocking the front.
yup, it's the dials that seize when not exercised.
What changed post 2005? Different axel or different hubs?
-Bobby
On 2005+ trucks the hubs are larger and much more user friendly. The hubs prior to 2005 were smaller and more difficult to operate even when brand new. The old design was more susceptible to contamination and they seize up bad.
The axle itself is still a Dana 60, but they changed all the outer hardware on them in 05 when the wheel offset changed.
What's the difference between auto and lock? They still lock if set to auto correct? What's the reason to ever use manual lock, just if the vacuum controlled auto lock fails?
In the auto hub mode, in 2 wheel drive, it is a free wheeling system and you will get better gas mileage. You can still engage 4x4 by engaging the **** inside the cab as long as the vacuum system engages. In very cold weather, or damage below by debris the vacuum system can fail and thus no 4x4. By engaging the hub to the lock position occasionally, even in 2 wheel drive the system is turning and your gas mileage will be affected. With the front hubs on lock and turning the **** inside the cab to 4x4 it will engage the 4x4 without the vacuum system. It is a backup fail safe system should you ever be in a situation where you need 4x4 and the auto mode won't engage.
The real lesson here is to get into the habit every now and then to get out and manually turn those hubs, to check them for ease of turning because they may need some greasing at some point. Otherwise, if you don't manually turn them, when they fail, you will have no 4x4 and you will have a hefty repair bill. I was very lucky it happened just before my drive train warranty expires.
In the auto hub mode, in 2 wheel drive, it is a free wheeling system and you will get better gas mileage. You can still engage 4x4 by engaging the **** inside the cab as long as the vacuum system engages. In very cold weather, or damage below by debris the vacuum system can fail and thus no 4x4. By engaging the hub to the lock position occasionally, even in 2 wheel drive the system is turning and your gas mileage will be affected. With the front hubs on lock and turning the **** inside the cab to 4x4 it will engage the 4x4 without the vacuum system. It is a backup fail safe system should you ever be in a situation where you need 4x4 and the auto mode won't engage.
The real lesson here is to get into the habit every now and then to get out and manually turn those hubs, to check them for ease of turning because they may need some greasing at some point. Otherwise, if you don't manually turn them, when they fail, you will have no 4x4 and you will have a hefty repair bill. I was very lucky it happened just before my drive train warranty expires.
Right on. I wonder if you have them locked manually does 4x4 engage faster? Takes a while in auto. I may have to check it out. Thanks.
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