After doing a bunch of research on here, I finally decided that at 150,000 miles, it was time to do a plug swap. I was getting a pretty nasty miss at approx 1500+ RPM.

First, let me say that I don't know who on here had the idea first, but using a ladder and board across the engine to lay on was a genius! Here is my setup. I did end up laying down a nice thick jacket on the board for a little extra padding.





Having the portable scaffolding was perfect. I was able to keep all of my tools/supplies on that, which kept me from having to climb up and own 3x per plug.

And, yes, the plugs definitely needed to come out.



Only had 1 heart dropping problem. The rear most plug boot, on the passengers' side came off the coil, still attached to the plug. I pulled 2 pieces off before it finally came out. Needless to say, that was the worst possible plug for that to happen. However, all-in-all, it wasn't bad. Could have been much worse!

Some mindless mechanic had already replaced the passengers side front plug and coil, but I replaced it anyway. Glad I did. That mind numb individual must have used an impact to install. It was about 3x harder to break that one loose than the other 9.

THANK YOU for all the good posts on this.

 

Replaced with Bosch double platinum plugs. The factory platinum plugs lasted 150,000 miles. These should last longer than I keep it. I opted to not replace the coils, mainly because of cost. Just didn't have the $300.00 to spend on those at this time.

Had an air hose with a long barrel air gun to blow all the dirt out of the holes.

Used neversieze on the plug threads and coil lockdown bolts. Used dielectric grease on both ends of the plug boots, and on the electrical connector on the coil.

This is a 2003, so I torqued 9 of the 10 plugs to 12 foot pounds. The passengers side rear was torqued to "just enough" foot pounds.

I used a magnetic extension to get the old plugs out, and a short piece of hose to put them in. If the rubber inserts wouldn't have fallen out of my spark plug sockets years ago, I wouldn't have needed the hose.

I started around 10am and finished up around 2pm, with a 30 minute lunch break.

It was a fairly easy job, just time consuming. I've change plugs in dozens of non-COP engines before. This was my first COP. I must say that it sure is a lot more difficult on the COP, but not impossible.

 

Good Job! Nice pics and good idea on the scaffold and board. I might try that when it comes time for me to change mine. I will in the spring when it is warmer out. I dont like working on the cars in ice cold conditions. So did you notice a difference in power?

 

Good job! When I did mine it took about 90 mins for the first nine and another 90 mins for the last one! I'm sure you can guess which one I saved for last!

 

Ha - been there done that, the redneck topside creeper.

 

Sammie,

Yours may have been the post that inspired me to use the little giant. However, I must have a different model ladder. Mine was too tall, and it didn't have a lock anywhere around 90 deg. For me, the rolling scaffolding worked out better. But, then again - it's always assembled and is used more than any other tool in the garage (I use it for reaching all the storage items).

59CRL,

Yes, I did notice a bump in power beyond the fix for the very obvious miss that I was experiencing.

Here is a head scratcher for you. Check out my ABS light thread here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...gine-load.html

I have been able to cause the ABS light to turn on at will during anything but snowy driving conditions. During my 5 min test drive, and 2 ea 20 min trips since doing the plugs today, I have been unable to get the ABS light to come on. Don't ask me how changing the spark plugs has ANYTHING to do with the ABS system, but....

Anyway - thank you for looking, and Thanks Sammie for the Little Giant ladder idea. That sure saved my back!

 

From the OP;
Replaced with Bosch double platinum plugs. The factory platinum plugs lasted 150,000 miles. These should last longer than I keep it. I opted to not replace the coils, mainly because of cost. Just didn't have the $300.00 to spend on those at this time.

I replace mine with standard plugs every 20k miles so I can keep an eye on everything and have fresh plugs. Any plug will start to to bad from day one.

Had an air hose with a long barrel air gun to blow all the dirt out of the holes.

Good idea

Used neversieze on the plug threads and coil lockdown bolts. Used dielectric grease on both ends of the plug boots, and on the electrical connector on the coil.

You only need a tiny bit of grease on the end of the spring to control corrosion, anything more attracts grime and promotes spark leakage. Never seize is not needed anywhere but the plug threads in a TINY amount otherwise it can change the torque value.

This is a 2003, so I torqued 9 of the 10 plugs to 12 foot pounds. The passengers side rear was torqued to "just enough" foot pounds.

They should have all been the same. 12 is good with the never seize but go back and check the pass rear. You don't want a blowout.

I used a magnetic extension to get the old plugs out, and a short piece of hose to put them in. If the rubber inserts wouldn't have fallen out of my spark plug sockets years ago, I wouldn't have needed the hose.

Whatever works, I have another way of doing it though, many rubber inserts are missing including mine.


I started around 10am and finished up around 2pm, with a 30 minute lunch break.

You can do it in 45 minutes and taking a break is not a good idea with 10 plugs. You need concentration to assure you won't have a blowout.

It was a fairly easy job, just time consuming. I've change plugs in dozens of non-COP engines before. This was my first COP. I must say that it sure is a lot more difficult on the COP, but not impossible

Smart not to replace cops, many last 200k miles.

 

I did mine a few months ago. Pain in the butt but way better than paying a mechanic for 4.5 hours of work plus not knowing if they torqued things correctly. I'm happy i did mine even if it did take me hours....

I noticed a bump in power as well, my plugs looked about as bad as yours.

I didn't have a cool scaffold so i ended up with a sore back, sore knee, etc. I'm getting old.

I think the last or second to last passenger side is always the worst. I think i remember my old plug had some rust on it like there was standing water in there.

I used anti-seize as well. with these aluminum heads i don't want to take any chances with seized plugs.

I also only changed out the one COP that broke when my plug blew. I ended up using some JB Weld to glue that COP tab back on and now that's my spare COP i carry in the truck.

 

She can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe Sammie's Ex is lifted, and yours appears stock, most likely why the little big giant would be too tall on yours.... fyi....not that it matters lol

I recently helped a friend change a set of V10 plugs, worked out good, I took them all out except for the one that had blown out, he did the TimeSert and put all the plugs back in so he would warranty the work, driver side was cake, but the passenger side rear was a PAIN lol

Justin

 

I remove or loosen everything that is near the pass rear first and it's worth it.

 

Mine is lifted about 4".

I also did #5 first, it really is a PITA to get too, but I figured if I got it done first all the rest would seem easy. They were. Only one I had issues removing was #9, it was really rusted.

 

I'm just the opposite, I practise on the others first to get in the mode. Also, I change mine every 20k to avoid rust, water, grime, bad boots, etc and keep fresh std Autolite 103's in there. ........pm tomorrow