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welding spiders

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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #1  
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welding spiders

Hi guys before some of u tell me no and all the problems it cause I am aware of everything. I am also aware that with the truck in 2wd and my manual hubs unlocked it does not affect anything. Anyways I just rebuilt my front end including taking the differential apart to put new inner axel seals in. While the gears were out I should have welded them then. I never thought of it and I am not taking it apart again. My question is can u weld the spider gears with the axels still in? And do u just add filler to the teeth or do u weld them to each other?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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I did it in my camaro in autoshop with an arc welder. It worked but i changed The rear a few weeks later. I bet it would have ripped itself apart from the stress during turns. We welded the gears together. Where they engaged.

There are obvious fire issues to deal with also
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 08:59 PM
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Why weld them?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:06 PM
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It will be messy. I think your going it hard to get a good clean
surface to weld with all that oil and oil vapor once you heat
things up a bit. Having a locked spool in the front end I would think
will make it a bear to take any corners. Also if you do manage to
weld it with the oil on things it may fail under stress from the turning.

If you going to all that work you may as wall get an air locker and use that
instead of welding the spiders. You will then have the ability ti un lock it.

A welded front diff on snow . I think they will be pulling you out of a ditch
or worse.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:16 PM
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Down in fl. And if u ever need 4x4 and turning u just unlock one hub and it's back to a 3wd system. Anyways Ya I think a welding would be tough if everything is still in there. Is there a locker I can install without taking everything apart again? If not it will stay a open stock system.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:28 PM
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So u don't have an open front differential. In an open system as soon as on front tire starts to loose traction all the power is diverted to that wheel. So really u have a 3wd truck. Welding them closes the loop and gives equal power to both.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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I think to put one in you going to have to pull it down.
You need to get access to the carrier. I thing an eLocker
or and Air locker would be you best bets.

But it will need to be totally disassembled and the bearings
will have to be reset.

I know that you said your not going to do a locker if you can't
do it with tearing it all apart. But I did look up the ARB that may be right
ARB Locker

Sean
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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The powertrax lockers go in an open carrier and replace the spider gears. the carrier remains in the housing during install.

Im not sure how they perform.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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Here is a link to them
WELCOME TO POWERTRAX - Powertrax

They have some videos at this link
Powertrax Videos

I am going to have a look.

Sean
 
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Old Dec 28, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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I have a lockright in the front. It works great. Only locks up when on the gas. For some reason I remember pulling the diff out. Either way the axles need to come out..I would never do and air or elock in front only rear. If I had a d60 in front I would have a detroit in there also its much nicer.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 05:57 AM
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I've welded the diff in various race cars for a totally locked axle, I just welded the spider gears together. They would sometimes break, but I suspect putting a lot of HP through them on dry pavement with slick racing tires may have had something to do with it. A spool is a better choice. Welding might be fine if you only run 4WD on slick surfaces (mud bogs come to mind). If you ground your welder to the gears themselves you should not harm any bearings, but if you ground to the axle housing you'll probably also arc-damage the bearings. As you say you will have options, in two wheel drive with un-locked front hubs all will be normal, lock one hub and have 3WD on dry surfaces, lock both hubs and 4WD. I expect that steering would be difficult with 4WD and a locked front axle but I've never tried it.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 09:25 AM
  #12  
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I have welded more than a few differentials in rear ends, front ends, fwd cars, awd vehicles, and lawn mowers.

You do not want to do it in the front end. You will absolutely hate it.

To be done right the whole differential should be removed from the axle, cleaned, and welded, then cleaned again, and reinstalled. Welding in the axle all sorts of debris will get splattered all over in the housing and ruin the gears and bearings in the axle.

Like mentioned get a locker, clutch LSD, helical LSD, or what have you. I would avoid any constant positive lock in the front end like a spool, mini spool, welded.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 09:36 AM
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I think some of you guys are missing the part of what locking hubs do.


I've welded a couple diffs. As a professional welder I can tell you that to do it right the carrier will absolutely have to be removed, degreased, partially disassembled, side gears ground flat on two sides, pre heated, welded and even post heat treated.



 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #14  
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^ don't forget to align and clamp the gears before welding or you may not get the axles back in. This is done with either a stub axle or a made up alignment tool.

Welding to the cast carrier you would need to heat and post heat and also use Nirod to do the weld. Welding spider to spider you can just use er70.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #15  
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Ya welding is out. By the time I pay someone to do it right I could just instal a locker for the same price. Gonna have to wait till I have a reason to pull the front diff apart again. Thanks for all the replys
 
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